Loader pivot pin stuck. How to remove?

[motionclone]

The loader arms pivot pin was rotating in the quick switch housing ends housing rather than where its supposed to rotate, in the loader arm. It sheared the through bolt that holds it in place. Its a 1-1/8" diameter pin. I cut the pin on both sides so I could remove the quick attach but im having trouble removing the rest of the pin, its seized in pretty good.

Ive heated the crap out of it with Map gas and hammered away with a smaller pin. Ive also tried heating and using a ball joint extractor tool (big C-clamp) but didnt work although I think i got it to move .00002 inches.

Whats the preferred method nowadays? I dont have torches. I have it on a Kroil drip through the grease zirk hole although im guessing that isnt going to do much. Im bringing home my Hilti Hammer drill from work tommorow, maybe that will do it. Ive also thought of welding on a bolt then using it to extract but not sure if threads will hold up to that force.

 

[RCW]

Wow...she sounds stuck.
My first thought was continue with the kroil and maybe an air hammer...sounds like you’re headed in that direction already.
I might give the penetrating oil time to work for a day or two....


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[Lil Foot]

I'd put a small center drill hole in the end of the pin & use the biggest gear puller that would fit. Might have to try it in both directions, with penetrating oil of course.

 

[hodge]

You need more heat than MAPP gas. Try an oxy-acetylene torch.

 

[baronetm]

I would drill and tap the center of the pin for a grade 8 fine thread bolt about 1/2 to ¾ the diameter of the pin as deep as the tap will go. The bolt needs to be long enough to add blocking and the length of your porta-power cylinder. Then using a porta-power with a hollow cylinder I would fit the grade 8 bolt with extra heavy washers or heavy plate through the porta-power piston and block it with steel blocks or heavy pipe nipples to make clearance for the pin to move. Then heat the exterior of the pin hole and apply constant and slowly increasing pressure. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES LET ANYONE STAND IN FRONT OF THE POTA-POWER it is possible the bolt could break if the pin does not start to move, it will happen so quick you won***8217;t know what hit you. It may be prudent to cover the porta-power with a tarp or something to catch any flying material. Also watch your toes, if the pin does start to move it is possible the blocking parts will fall to the floor and wear safety glasses. I have used this method to pull, pins, keys, gears, flywheels and clutches from 25-4300 ton mechanical presses.
Sometimes drilling a large hole through the length of the pin will release enough pressure to make it possible to drive the pin out with a step punch, this and drilling the complete pin out are usually a last resort, Good Luck.
One of the issues with trying to hammer the pin out is the loader is not solid, it probably moves as you hit the pin. Try to block the loader against something very solid with clearance for the pin to move, taking any bounce out of the framework will put all the foot pounds of effort into the pin.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

OXY or Plasma torch!

 

[SRG]

Move your machine along side something that you can anchor the FEL arm too, with a ratchet strap. The receiver on one of your vehicles for instance or another tractor. You need to make it as stable and solid as possible, while hitting it with a BFH. You don't want the energy of the BFH to be absorbed by movement in the loader arm.

That, or like said, Oxy-acetylene or plasma.

 

[Smokeless]

If it was me i would borrow or rent set O/A, use the cutting torch and blow it out. Focusing heat on the pin.

 

[Bxmike]

Hard telling from the picture but it looks like the edges of the pin have been distorted. Clean up the edges continue Kroll drip. Spray inside and outside edges. Drill center hole to half inch for centering a punch drive one way then the other spraying with Kroll. It will work out over time.

 

[Pau7220]

An OTC ball joint/u-joint press should work. Harbor Freight has a weak China one (my son broke one then borrowed mine for a Dodge 3/4 ton). Most chain auto parts stores will loan them out. Air impact won't hurt... Use a face shield! Get it bright red with an oxy-acetylene torch then get the press on quickly.

 

[Jim L.]

Fast way would be the OXY/A torch to literally burn a hole in the center. Maybe hire a welder to do that. I understand about not wanting sparks and burning.

Baronetm describes a good method if you can get a loaner porta-power or even buy one.

Banging on it is not going to get it out. The frame is going to absorb too much of the energy to make any progress.

Pin could be drilled through center progressively; that could take a long time.

 

[baronetm]

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES LET ANYONE STAND IN FRONT OF THE POTA-POWER it is possible the bolt could break if the pin does not start to move, it will happen so quick you won't know what hit you.

Wow, I just read a thread talking about hollering, the use of CAPS, I'm sorry I used them in my post response. My reasoning for the caps was to highlight a very dangerous procedure and extreme caution should be used.

And yes if you worked for me and were performing this procedure you would have been taught the proper safety procedures, if you performed this process without blocking off the work area, tarps, cables or what ever safety device the process requires you would be spoken to rather harshly. I will hopefully remember the proper use of caps in the future...

 

[motionclone]

UPDATE: Got the pin out.

Appreciate everyones input. I was trying to use what I already had available and portapower kits and OA Torches where not around.


SOO

I tacked a pipe to one side of the boom with an inner diameter larger than the pin.

On the other side i welded a HILTI bit to the pin face. I pulled the tractor up against a couple thousand pound rock so the pipe contacted the rock making the boom rock solid. Then I heated the pin tube and commenced to pounding the pin with the hilti attached to the bit. DIDNT BUDGE!!

SO I decided to cut a slit in the pin tube relieving the pressure then pounded it right out with the hilti. Afterwards, I welded it all back up.

Turns out the pin was slightly bent so not sure if just O/A heat would have done it.

 

[Jim L.]

Very resourceful! Thanks for pictures.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Excellent to hear!

 

[Pau7220]

Great "last resort" fix!! Reminds me of my loader arm fix.

 

[Wbk]

If you've mushroomed the ends of the pin you probably won't get it out too easily. The U joint press mentioned by another member would be my choice but your going to need some serious heat something that'll get it red hot. Worst case you can grind off the welds and get a new bushing (pipe) welded in. Good luck

 

[D2Cat]

Wbk, you're late to the party. Just above your post he shows pictures of how he solved the problem!

 

[Smokeless]

That using your noodle, good job.