Loader dolly on the cheap and starting the homemamde fork attachment brackets

trial and error

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B7100dt manual trans. homemade FEL, 4 way hydraulic dozer blade
Feb 16, 2023
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After getting rear-ended this morning In the truck by a Honda while making a right turn I needed to get my mind off of the damage to my truck. Noone went to the hopsital and the truck is drivable but the rear bumper, is pretty messed up. The hitch is most likely tweaked and I'm hoping it didn't get into the frame on the truck, guy spun me around over 90 degrees that's how hard he hit me.

Anyway I made some progress on a couple projects this afternoon
I started with my made from pallet "dolly" for winter storage of the loader. That came out about as well as I planned and consists of two pallets stitched together with a couple of treated 2x4's being held in place by a bunch of nails and screws one end has a couple non swivel 10 inch pneumatic casters and the other end will just sit on blocks or whatever I have laying around. The idea of this project was to use cheap/free supplies I had laying around and to not have my small trailer tied up all winter with the loader sitting on it. Unfortunely the whole apparatus will have to get stored outside amd covered with a tarp, thanks to the garage bursting at the seams during winter.

Second project t was to start a (not quite) quick atach frame for the bucket and eventual forks to attach to. So I only have to line up 4-6 bolts to switch between the two, instead of the pins on the loader . I know I know just do it right l,but this is what my budget allows for now. And quick tach is not warranted for this tractor or its budget.
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NorthwoodsLife

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Nice steel fabrication!

On the truck, is that a class 5 hitch that's twisted? If so, It's probably a total loss.

Edit: Nevermind, I now see it's one of those multi ball Ching a Deras.
 
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Runs With Scissors

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Glad your ok.

Nothing cheers a guy up more than a fun welding project! There is just something therapeutic about laying down a good weld.

Looks nice so far.
 
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trial and error

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B7100dt manual trans. homemade FEL, 4 way hydraulic dozer blade
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Thanks guys for the kind words.

@NorthwoodsLife it is definately not a class 5 it's a class 3 receiver standard 2 inch but it is a factory hitch with one large bolt though the. Bumper and several others connected to the frame, not sure if the actual hitch or frame on the truck got tweaked that's for the body shop to figure out but that poor Honda hit the hitch and bumper pretty dang hard and his car is most likely a total loss between the airbag deployment and destroyed right font end. I thankfully had no airbags which certainly would result in a total loss.
As for the fab work its getting there ive got a long way to go and 37 million other projects started as well.as a kid coming in a few weeks so progress is going to be slowwwww lol

@Runs With Scissors I appreciate the kind words. My welds are far from a "nice bead" but after the success with the loader build and no catastrophic failures on the welds which are downright hideous I'm confident enough to take on this project hopefully I can make its welds turn out a little more astetically please but if not I at least know they will hold based on previous experience
 

trial and error

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B7100dt manual trans. homemade FEL, 4 way hydraulic dozer blade
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Made a little more progress today after dropping off a load of scrapat the n
metal yard this morning and picking up the accident report from last week.

Got the square tubing "bombed" in and two of the four angle brackets for mounting to the loader arms and curl cylinders tacked on in place
 

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trial and error

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B7100dt manual trans. homemade FEL, 4 way hydraulic dozer blade
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What does anyone thing about me converting a set of "clamp on" pallet type forls to regular forks for ligh duty work if the pallet jack idea doesn't come through. I know it will only be as strong as my welds/gussets but is it a terrible idea? or is it feasible for a small machine like mine with very limited lifting capabilities. Primary uses would be reasonably sized logs brush from tree cleanup etc I'm sure I'll use them for other objects and pallets but nothing crazy since the b7100 is a tiny tractor.

I'm thinking these from Titan Atttachments currently on sale for less then 100$ shipped. And would want to take them from a clamp on to a "l" shaped fork to mount on my frame I'm working on
The pallet jack I was looking into is the "cheapest option" so long as my boss will sell it to me at scrap value since it's been kicking around broken (hydraulics don't work on it) for 6 months. But now that I expressed interest in it he seems pretty hesitant to let it go for what I would consider to be a good deal, and if I'm going to pay anyway near 100$ I am thinking clamp on forls would be stronger and easier to convert

 
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Runs With Scissors

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What does anyone thing about me converting a set of "clamp on" pallet type forls to regular forks for ligh duty work if the pallet jack idea doesn't come through. I know it will only be as strong as my welds/gussets but is it a terrible idea? or is it feasible for a small machine like mine with very limited lifting capabilities. Primary uses would be reasonably sized logs brush from tree cleanup etc I'm sure I'll use them for other objects and pallets but nothing crazy since the b7100 is a tiny tractor.

I'm thinking these from Titan Atttachments currently on sale for less then 100$ shipped. And would want to take them from a clamp on to a "l" shaped fork to mount on my frame I'm working on
The pallet jack I was looking into is the "cheapest option" so long as my boss will sell it to me at scrap value since it's been kicking around broken (hydraulics don't work on it) for 6 months. But now that I expressed interest in it he seems pretty hesitant to let it go for what I would consider to be a good deal, and if I'm going to pay anyway near 100$ I am thinking clamp on forls would be stronger and easier to convert


My personal opinion of any "clamp on forks" is not very good in general.

However, for that kind of money, it's not a lot of risk, so I say try'em.
 
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trial and error

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B7100dt manual trans. homemade FEL, 4 way hydraulic dozer blade
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My personal opinion of any "clamp on forks" is not very good in general.

However, for that kind of money, it's not a lot of risk, so I say try'em.
I agree woth you @Runs With Scissors that clamp on pallet forks are a budget choice for a reason and are probably not a great option for larger tractors. I plan on converting them to regular forks but didn't have enough material on hand to make the fork part just the upper or"back" part of the fork. I may try these as clamp on first but I know my lift capacity is very limited and will be extremely limited if used as that type of design. I am also very worried about my homemade scrap bucket distorting with them on it, and that is why I want to use them as a base for standard type forks. Not a lot of complaint about them on both titans site and Amazon so I think for what I want them for they will be plenty sturdy. I did go ahead and order them last night as I couldn't pass up on 109$ with expidited paid shipping tax and shipping insurance. I think they will be just fine for my little 17 hp tractor but time will.tell. if not then it's a fairly inexpensive lesson. I'm still.curious to see what others imput is I know my plans are ussually unconventional. But hey the name is Trail and Error lol
Thanks
 

trial and error

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B7100dt manual trans. homemade FEL, 4 way hydraulic dozer blade
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Got some work done on the frame for the forks. It doesn't look much different becuase I had to take 1 step forward and two back due to my miscalculations so no pictures but I got all 4 peices of angle tacked in place for what I hope is the final time
 

trial and error

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B7100dt manual trans. homemade FEL, 4 way hydraulic dozer blade
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Starting to "mock things up." Not sure how the fork triangulation is going to be made yet but I have a couple of ideas. I also have an idea for the carriage that won't interfere when I have the "bucket" attached to it. Idk how much work I'll get done over the weekend becuase of other plans, but I'm hoping at minimum to get the loader boom arm mkunts tacked to the frame of the carriage. It's all just kind of sitting in place right now so I can guesstimate where the boom arm mounts need to be. I'll tack those on and check for clearances both fully retracted (which shouldn't be an issue) and at full dump. I imagine I'll have to put some sort of travel limiter on the frame so when at full dump it doesn't risk over extending one the curl cylinders and bending them much like I had to do with the original bucket. The front of the frame will also get 12" x 18" 3/16 plate welded to each side of it so that I have a solid place to "bolt" the bucket onto it, and it will aid in some lateral strengthening. I know it's no quick attach but I'm hoping lining 4-6 large bolts up to mount the bucket will be easier then removing the entire frame every time like a true pin on style. I know this set up going to bump my center of gravity for the bucket out a few more inches but the tractor lift and stability kind of overachieves with the current set up and my current ballast set up. So I don't think I'll lose enough lift capacity with the bucket for it to matter and the new frame will allow me to mount the forks as close to the loader pins as possible.

Edit: and yes I couldn't resist attaching the new clamp on forks to the bucket for what will probably be the only time. To move a few small logs around. The loader didn't have a issue with the lift part but the bucket I made sure didn't like the stress even though I used a couple cheap ratchet straps as load binders just to mess around, no damage was done but having the forks closer should make the whole assembly much more stable and capable for my intended purposes.
 

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Missouribound

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I'd like to make just one suggestion regarding the forks.
Build a "spreader" of sorts to keep them straight.
I clamp mine to the bucket and use a 18" wrench on the clamps to tighten them.
That's not nearly enough to keep them from swinging.
If they are going into a pocket, then not needed.
I used mine to transport brush and logs and they didn't want to stay straight.
 
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trial and error

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B7100dt manual trans. homemade FEL, 4 way hydraulic dozer blade
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I'd like to make just one suggestion regarding the forks.
Build a "spreader" of sorts to keep them straight.
I clamp mine to the bucket and use a 18" wrench on the clamps to tighten them.
That's not nearly enough to keep them from swinging.
If they are going into a pocket, then not needed.
I used mine to transport brush and logs and they didn't want to stay straight.
Noted not sure how I am going to incorporate that since I want them to be adjustable width. I am planning on hanging them from the top of the carriage with some sort of a keeper on the bottom to keep them from swinging up and out (not sure that will be nessacary) but as for a spreader since they will be hanging on more of a traditional fork liftt style carraige woth a L shape to the fork, I'm not sure it will be feasible or needed but if it is I'm sure I can come up woth something
 

Runs With Scissors

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L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
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Starting to "mock things up." Not sure how the fork triangulation is going to be made yet but I have a couple of ideas. I also have an idea for the carriage that won't interfere when I have the "bucket" attached to it. Idk how much work I'll get done over the weekend becuase of other plans, but I'm hoping at minimum to get the loader boom arm mkunts tacked to the frame of the carriage. It's all just kind of sitting in place right now so I can guesstimate where the boom arm mounts need to be. I'll tack those on and check for clearances both fully retracted (which shouldn't be an issue) and at full dump. I imagine I'll have to put some sort of travel limiter on the frame so when at full dump it doesn't risk over extending one the curl cylinders and bending them much like I had to do with the original bucket. The front of the frame will also get 12" x 18" 3/16 plate welded to each side of it so that I have a solid place to "bolt" the bucket onto it, and it will aid in some lateral strengthening. I know it's no quick attach but I'm hoping lining 4-6 large bolts up to mount the bucket will be easier then removing the entire frame every time like a true pin on style. I know this set up going to bump my center of gravity for the bucket out a few more inches but the tractor lift and stability kind of overachieves with the current set up and my current ballast set up. So I don't think I'll lose enough lift capacity with the bucket for it to matter and the new frame will allow me to mount the forks as close to the loader pins as possible.

Edit: and yes I couldn't resist attaching the new clamp on forks to the bucket for what will probably be the only time. To move a few small logs around. The loader didn't have a issue with the lift part but the bucket I made sure didn't like the stress even though I used a couple cheap ratchet straps as load binders just to mess around, no damage was done but having the forks closer should make the whole assembly much more stable and capable for my intended purposes.

Maybe it's just the angle, but they look awfully long for that tractor.
 
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trial and error

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B7100dt manual trans. homemade FEL, 4 way hydraulic dozer blade
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They are 48 inch forks, so yes they are disporopotionally long for this tractor. They will get a little shorter but not much since I want to use the "tee" that is already formed to crate my L. The counterweight I have been using for the bucket has done a good job in keeping the steering relatively non strenuous, even when fully loaded with gravel, therefore keeping me from overloading the front axle. I wil.have to use the same common sense and general rules of operation when using the forks. Believe it or not the 48" ones where the least expensive at the time of purchase so that's really the reason I went with them. I have no plans of trying to lift the world, that is why I am only using a small >400lb counterweight, and I think the extra length will be benfiicial for moving brush and tree top stuff which is going to be one of their main uses, and yes I want to use them for log work and other various projects I will just have to be careful and use common sense
 

Runs With Scissors

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L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
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They are 48 inch forks, so yes they are disporopotionally long for this tractor. They will get a little shorter but not much since I want to use the "tee" that is already formed to crate my L. The counterweight I have been using for the bucket has done a good job in keeping the steering relatively non strenuous, even when fully loaded with gravel, therefore keeping me from overloading the front axle. I wil.have to use the same common sense and general rules of operation when using the forks. Believe it or not the 48" ones where the least expensive at the time of purchase so that's really the reason I went with them. I have no plans of trying to lift the world, that is why I am only using a small >400lb counterweight, and I think the extra length will be benfiicial for moving brush and tree top stuff which is going to be one of their main uses, and yes I want to use them for log work and other various projects I will just have to be careful and use common sense

gotcha (y)
 
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trial and error

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B7100dt manual trans. homemade FEL, 4 way hydraulic dozer blade
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A little more progress made today, got the plate steel tacked in place and the top peice for the carriage that the forks will hang from cut and prepped to hopefully be tacked in place tomorrow (it is just sitting there in the pictures) . There will be some 1 inch square tube behind the "fork hanger" peice to act as sort of a gusset and add additional weld points between that "hanger peice" and the rest of the frame. In hindsight I may make the original bucket hang off this upper peice which would in turn allow me to only have to fasten the bottom with a couple bolts, we'll see how things go, how much material I have left when I'm done with the forks and how ambitious I am feeling, but that solution would be ideal and as close to a quick connect that my (lack of ) fabrication skills can come up with for the bucket.
 

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trial and error

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B7100dt manual trans. homemade FEL, 4 way hydraulic dozer blade
Feb 16, 2023
396
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Little more progress after work this evening. Ilthe frame/carriage is temporarily on the tractor so I can mock up the dump stops for the curl cylinders, which is proving to be the most difficult part if this project so far. Aside from snapping the chuck renting screw off In the motor on my favorite cordless drill. I tried loctiting the chuck back on but woth the first application of torque this afternoon it back the chuck right off the threads and left the chuck stuck on the bit and me having to cut it off. I guess that drill will have to get replaced o well
 

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trial and error

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B7100dt manual trans. homemade FEL, 4 way hydraulic dozer blade
Feb 16, 2023
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I've been making small steps on the forks project, just haven't taken many photos things are a changing around here so I'll be unable to get any work on this project dne for about a week. But I've got one fork together and the other prepped to go together as well as a idea in my head and materials prepped to execute some sort of clamping device to keep the bottom of the forks tight and square to the back plate and still be able to adjust them by simply loosening two /clamping bolts hopefully that idea works as good in practice as it does in my head. I have done some light tests on the one (mostly) completed forks and haven't decided if I'll need additional gussets where the "L" comes together. But we will see
For now we are prepping to welcome our first child into the world tomorrow via a scheduled C section as he's still breached and we are pretty much at full term. Wish me luck on that and stay tuned because I'm intent on finishing this project. It may just take a little longer then I wanted . I've still got a lot of major leaf cleanup to do around here as well so that has to take priority in any of my "free" time for the next couple weeks.
 
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Trimley

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Haha, you "think" you've not had much time. You about to be busier.

Here's to the new addition to the family.🍻
 
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trial and error

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B7100dt manual trans. homemade FEL, 4 way hydraulic dozer blade
Feb 16, 2023
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Alright I made a liar out of myself, and since I have an amazing wife who can feed and tend to the newborn and she also gave me "permission and I also needed to move the bucket out of the trailer to use it for leaves in the coming weeks I decided to get the forks about 90% done and did some trial runs this evening.
There's still an hour or two worth of final work and paint to do on them and they are not going to be pretty by any stretch of the imagination but they function and should be fairly easy to adjust width wise. I also don't think I broke any welds lifting the rear of the tractor off the ground with a load on the forks. So I don't think I need any gussets on the actual forks . There will be a few parts that will get through bolted and the whole thing will get a rattle can of primer and whatever black paint I have laying around till next year but it can get crossed off the list, at least for this year.
Edit: don't mind the black pipe insulation on the loader it is just there to protect the tarp when I had to park the tractor outside a couple weeks ago to finish the electric hoist track in the garage and since the loader will be coming off in a month for winter and stored under a tarp I left them on
 

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