Load bearing wall??

[RonBoyBX25D]

Looking good, can't wait to see it finished.

 

[RCW]

Great!

What are you doing with the top of your knee wall?

Just a suggestion - remember I'm a wood guy - is a piece of 1" hardwood. Oak, maple (better) or hickory (best, maybe) with some width to make a small shelf - maybe 6-8" to meet your pine post. Thinking Leave it unstained with poly, a great accent to the stained pine! They are also so much harder, and won't get dented with use/abuse.

Looks wonderful!

 

[Daren Todd]

Great!

What are you doing with the top of your knee wall?

Just a suggestion - remember I'm a wood guy - is a piece of 1" hardwood. Oak, maple (better) or hickory (best, maybe) with some width to make a small shelf - maybe 6-8" to meet your pine post. Thinking Leave it unstained with poly, a great accent to the stained pine! They are also so much harder, and won't get dented with use/abuse.

Looks wonderful!

We had ordered a bar top to match the counter tops just had a few things to finish before I could install it

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[RCW]

Nice! Like that, too!


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[Daren Todd]

Here's the after pictures. Can't find any decent before pictures from when we bought the place.

After searching through about 3000 glamour pics our daughter took when she was a teenager, I gave up

Living room,

Dining room

Kitchen

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[Daren Todd]

Here's a couple more of the kitchen.

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[D2Cat]

Daren, you having a garage sale to get rid of all the items that were in the shelving that was above the bar?

Looks nice. Now you get back to living?

 

[Daren Todd]

Daren, you having a garage sale to get rid of all the items that were in the shelving that was above the bar?

Looks nice. Now you get back to living?

Yup, till we start on the floors we have 4 more rooms to scrape ceilings in, then paint. But those will be a cake walk considering what we just did.

Beth's been sorting stuff in to boxes, and getting prepared for a yard sale. Got some stuff in the garage that needs to go bye bye as well That will be her furniture fund. To add what we want for the dining room. And replace my beat down chair and couch.

 

[RonBoyBX25D]

Wow, looks great!

Time to start a new project, I would suggest something outside needing a little Orange support

 

[D2Cat]

If everything she sells goes to the furniture fund, you better be careful she'll be selling you and the dogs!!

 

[Daren Todd]

Here's what I could find on the before pics. I think the rest are on my wife's face book page and were taken with her phone.

Stoves gonna get replaced after we do the floors. The range in the before pics died a couple years back.

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[RCW]

Very nice!!

Tell the Mrs. job well done!

Oh, you did okay, too!

 

[Daren Todd]

First family dinner in the kitchen. We were able to set everything up like a cafeteria and just make a circle

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[JeffL]

Happy wife is a happy life!
Just found this and read it from end to end. Very impressed with the end result, really opened up the kitchen without sacrificing other areas of the house. What also impressed me was your first post was on April 30 and last was June 5. That's 36 days! Wow..... Jeff

 

[cerlawson]

I'm a civil engineer. You need to describe the exact direction of the photos taken in the attic space and the exact position of the camera. Do you have a shot of that wall at the end of the higher ceiling? That shoould answer the question.

If you want to, load that info better descried to the WEB site www.eng-tips.com. Go to the section on structural, other issues.

My off had guess is that the partition wall in question is not load bearing and the wall at the end of the higher ceiling is actually a truss carrying ceiling loads there..

Heck, maybe do like the famous architect Frank Lloyd Wright did for his house near Spring Green,WI. If he didn't like a column or wall in the way of some view he just removed it. Sagging ceilings didn't seem to bother him.

 

[Daren Todd]

I'm a civil engineer. You need to describe the exact direction of the photos taken in the attic space and the exact position of the camera. Do you have a shot of that wall at the end of the higher ceiling? That shoould answer the question.

If you want to, load that info better descried to the WEB site www.eng-tips.com. Go to the section on structural, other issues.

My off had guess is that the partition wall in question is not load bearing and the wall at the end of the higher ceiling is actually a truss carrying ceiling loads there..

Heck, maybe do like the famous architect Frank Lloyd Wright did for his house near Spring Green,WI. If he didn't like a column or wall in the way of some view he just removed it. Sagging ceilings didn't seem to bother him.

All the ceilings are engineered trusses. The transition wall from the higher ceiling to lower ceiling isn't load bearing. It was just a transition. But they had a butt joint for the transition falling on the end of the partition wall.

We actually jacked the transition wall up 1 1/2" to get it back square. The end of the partition wall had two 2x4's. But they neglected to tie them together. So one had bowed in, the other bowed out causing the drop of 1 1/2". There are now four 2x4's lagged together in there supporting that joint. It's also why we chose to put a header in place of the partition wall.

 

[cerlawson]

To support what will remain, there may be the possibility of supporting that wall from adjacent trusses. A little fitting may be needed, but using metal "truss plates" or equal, such as thick sheet metal,1/16" or greater, with many holes drilled can be used to tie tension 2 x 4's to the wall to be supported and then up to nearby trusses, upper members. Ordinary nails can be used, but I'd opt for screws. You may need to add some of these "tension" members to the lower part of the wall framing, possibly using angle iron to get the right angle from the near vertical tension members (attached to truss) to the horizontal part of the wall frame sections. Don't be hesitant to add some horizontal members to what is now there to help hold things up and make a better place for the tension member attachment. . I'd screw the new work to the old. You could even bolt a vertical "truss plate" to a horizontal angle in some locations.
When attaching to the truss, it would be best to do that near the joints of the diagonals to top members, to minimize the twist on the truss.. Spacing of screws or nails should be one inch or a little more. Try to locate these holes so that adjacent screws are not in line with the grain, to avoid splitting potential. Many small diameter screws are less invasive than large diameter nails or screws. Look at a truss plate with the punched "nails". They are amazing in holding power.

If you are fearful of adding load to one truss, attach a longthwise 2 x 6 under two or three top truss members to be sharing the load. Then use that to carry loads from down below.

 

[cerlawson]

I trust you know I am talking about supporting the wall at the kitchen end ot the higher room. The wall with the smoke alarm on it. From what I can glean from the photos in the attic, that wall has no support in the mid section other than where the post or partition wall was below.

 

[Daren Todd]

I trust you know I am talking about supporting the wall at the kitchen end ot the higher room. The wall with the smoke alarm on it. From what I can glean from the photos in the attic, that wall has no support in the mid section other than where the post or partition wall was below.

Yes sir. That wall is supported now by four 2x4's and a header The most recent photos from Thanksgiving show how it was finished off.

 

[D2Cat]

Hey Daren, it look nice and functional, but from the discussion of the last day on this thread are you planning on redoing what you just finished?