Lights, hourmeter, glow plugs no power
- Thread starter afonz18
- Start date
alfonz18
I may have said this to you before but just in case I did not, to do electrical work on a tractor you need two basic electrical tools costing about $20.
A test light:
A Multimeter:
If you get a multimeter like this one, the pointer needs to be placed at the "20" on the left side of the center on the selector switch.
Your first post in this thread is below.
Last week I replaced All the lights on my tractor and led bulbs. Everything worked great then all of a sudden it all stopped. Now my hourmeter, lights and glow plugs don't work.
I am suggesting at this time it would be a worthwhile use of your time, to reverse the bulb changes you have done to see if your tractor gets back to normal.
By doing this you will know if there is an issue having LED bulbs or not or if, in the process of installing the bulbs you have dislodged an electrical connection or moved it.
You have installed LED lights on the tractor, the D in LED stands for diode which is an electronic device often used to convert Alternating current to direct current. A diode also works to block current flow in one direction and some owners of these early B series have had grief using the LED bulbs.
I am very serious about my suggestion of going back!!!
Does your horn work? The male and female connectors which are close to each other, do any of the male or female lead to a fuse holder?
As you have recently said, in your investigation you have now blown the glow plug controller. What else has been damaged by the short circuit.
How do you know the controller is blown? Seems unlikely to me. Post photo of the wire inside it.
The condition of the wiring connections to your Key Switch appears very poor. A poor, rusty connection will have you chasing ghosts. Removing the switch completely, the one by one removing the wiring, cleaning and reinstalling then move to the next terminal on the switch. All of this done with the battery GROUND cable disconnected.
This is the glow plug circuit wiring from the WSM.
Power comes into the switch on terminal 30 so the first thing you need to check with your new test light is that there is power on terminal 30.
The key switch when in the preheat or Glow plug position, takes power from terminal 30 and connects it to terminal 19. When you have your new test light you need to make certain that is indeed what takes place.
Terminal 17 on the key switch is merely a junction point to connect the GP controller into the power going to the GP's. In other words, terminal 17 just does the same as twisting the wires on it together. It needs to be free of rust as a poor connection there under a load will stop your GP's from working.
Dave
I may have said this to you before but just in case I did not, to do electrical work on a tractor you need two basic electrical tools costing about $20.
A test light:
A Multimeter:
If you get a multimeter like this one, the pointer needs to be placed at the "20" on the left side of the center on the selector switch.
Your first post in this thread is below.
Last week I replaced All the lights on my tractor and led bulbs. Everything worked great then all of a sudden it all stopped. Now my hourmeter, lights and glow plugs don't work.
I am suggesting at this time it would be a worthwhile use of your time, to reverse the bulb changes you have done to see if your tractor gets back to normal.
By doing this you will know if there is an issue having LED bulbs or not or if, in the process of installing the bulbs you have dislodged an electrical connection or moved it.
You have installed LED lights on the tractor, the D in LED stands for diode which is an electronic device often used to convert Alternating current to direct current. A diode also works to block current flow in one direction and some owners of these early B series have had grief using the LED bulbs.
I am very serious about my suggestion of going back!!!
Does your horn work? The male and female connectors which are close to each other, do any of the male or female lead to a fuse holder?
As you have recently said, in your investigation you have now blown the glow plug controller. What else has been damaged by the short circuit.
How do you know the controller is blown? Seems unlikely to me. Post photo of the wire inside it.
The condition of the wiring connections to your Key Switch appears very poor. A poor, rusty connection will have you chasing ghosts. Removing the switch completely, the one by one removing the wiring, cleaning and reinstalling then move to the next terminal on the switch. All of this done with the battery GROUND cable disconnected.
This is the glow plug circuit wiring from the WSM.
Power comes into the switch on terminal 30 so the first thing you need to check with your new test light is that there is power on terminal 30.
The key switch when in the preheat or Glow plug position, takes power from terminal 30 and connects it to terminal 19. When you have your new test light you need to make certain that is indeed what takes place.
Terminal 17 on the key switch is merely a junction point to connect the GP controller into the power going to the GP's. In other words, terminal 17 just does the same as twisting the wires on it together. It needs to be free of rust as a poor connection there under a load will stop your GP's from working.
Dave
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Thanks dave for the detailed reply.
I have removed all leds, I have my flashers working and I have run a new switch for the lights, thus they are working.
It's just my glow plugs now.
30 has power
19 gets power when I turn the key back
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have removed all leds, I have my flashers working and I have run a new switch for the lights, thus they are working.
It's just my glow plugs now.
30 has power
19 gets power when I turn the key back
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Now check if 17 gets power when you turn the key back to preheat.
If it does, then your glow plug controller/indicator is still good.
Please post some photos of the glow plug side of your engine.
Like this photo:
But you have an additional cylinder.
Dave
Your glow plug indicator may be shot but plse remove it for a closer look.
If it is the correct one for your tractor, I find it difficult to imagine what you could have done to blow it. Notice I said correct one......
There are different GP indicators or controllers I think although I have not spent time looking on Messicks.
With your GP wiring, all the current flowing to the GP's passes through it.
Dave
Nice test light 
How are you getting it to light on a GP when your controller is shot.
Don't go connecting 12 volts to the bGP's without the controller as you risk burning out expensive GP's
Dave
How are you getting it to light on a GP when your controller is shot.
Don't go connecting 12 volts to the bGP's without the controller as you risk burning out expensive GP's
Dave
Update - All Fixed
I got it to light on the glow plugs by putting the ground on positive and touching the gps with the light.
Thanks for your help with troubleshooting. In the end I think it was a faulty fuse holder and a bad gp controller
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I got it to light on the glow plugs by putting the ground on positive and touching the gps with the light.
Thanks for your help with troubleshooting. In the end I think it was a faulty fuse holder and a bad gp controller
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the update. it i always nice to hear a tractor's problems have been resolved.
What you established with your test light is that at least one of the 3 GP's has a ground to the engine.
Dave
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