Bought m7060 cab last year. The lights are not great. What’s easiest way to add lights. Was thinking light bar front and back. Dealership wants to charge 3k. No way it should cost that much. I looked in search bar with little success? Any help appreciated.
Lightbar to Cab?
- Thread starter Jday
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mcmxi
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***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25DLB
$3k is ridiculous for a light bar installation. It's simple enough to make your own bracket to support a light bar of your own choosing. I have a thing for Vision X products and have their light bars on my F250 and Jeep TJ as well as their 7" round lights on the Jeep and the LMTV M1078.
Given the cost of Vision X stuff I wouldn't add them to my tractors, but I do have some nice LED lights to install but haven't got around to it yet. I did start to make a bar that bolts on either end to the factory light brackets but didn't finish it yet.
It wouldn't be hard to make two support brackets so if you're interested send me a PM and I can make something up ... for a reasonable fee.
85Hokie
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I'm with 1911 - for a 1/10 of the dealer cost, you could light up 5 acres!
Anything on this page will do the job = the wiring may be a little fun running in and around the cab, but it should be easy enough to do.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=light+ba...x=light+bar,aps,130&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_2_9
Anything on this page will do the job = the wiring may be a little fun running in and around the cab, but it should be easy enough to do.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=light+ba...x=light+bar,aps,130&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_2_9
Are the factory front and rear cab lights not bright enough?
Do you have the factory front and rear cab lights?
I do. And they work fine.
Work thru the dash switch.
Plug and play.
Definitely not 3K.
If you have the factory lights and they are not good enuf, find a cheap led light bar and splice it in.
The worst you could do is blow a fuse.
Do you have the factory front and rear cab lights?
I do. And they work fine.
Work thru the dash switch.
Plug and play.
Definitely not 3K.
If you have the factory lights and they are not good enuf, find a cheap led light bar and splice it in.
The worst you could do is blow a fuse.
Last edited:
If you want to reduce the draw on your current alternator, replace the incandescent lamps with LEDs, that way you will have even better lighting and allowing more amps to be available for the added lamps.
I mounted my LED warning light bar directly to the roof of the cab and sandwiched the bolts with large fender washers and rubber washers, lock washers, and nuts. Been up there for 2 years and it's great. I will be doing the same with some smaller LED fixtures to augment the Kubota cab LED lights.
The problem I’ll predict with that plan is…… LED Lightbars pull more Amps than you might think…. about 10A each. You should probably plan on a small 40A relay ** at the very least if you want to use existing switches….and that will still require dedicated power to the lightbar.
** https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VDI0GY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The OP's dealer sure wants to make a buck!
Boring stuff for veteran posters here but may be useful to some of the newer crowd:
My tractor had factory lights on the front of the cab, and nothing on the rear. Posters here revealed that the tractor had the rear wiring from the factory (hidden under taped-up wiring to the amber "lollipop" flashers). There's a connector behind a blank in the headliner for the rear work light switch. Switch just plugs in to the connector.
I replaced the two factory work lights on the front and added a couple on the back as well as a couple in the grille guard - all with Maxxima MWL 42's. Then to get some good side lighting I added a cube on each side tucked into the loader frame tube.
The 2,100 lumen Maxxima lights each draw 2.4A which is slightly less than the 35W factory (filament) lamps.
Here's more of the story:
www.orangetractortalks.com
Boring stuff for veteran posters here but may be useful to some of the newer crowd:
My tractor had factory lights on the front of the cab, and nothing on the rear. Posters here revealed that the tractor had the rear wiring from the factory (hidden under taped-up wiring to the amber "lollipop" flashers). There's a connector behind a blank in the headliner for the rear work light switch. Switch just plugs in to the connector.
I replaced the two factory work lights on the front and added a couple on the back as well as a couple in the grille guard - all with Maxxima MWL 42's. Then to get some good side lighting I added a cube on each side tucked into the loader frame tube.
The 2,100 lumen Maxxima lights each draw 2.4A which is slightly less than the 35W factory (filament) lamps.
Here's more of the story:
Lighting Revisited
Past Problems: * ROPS mounted work lights attracted bugs in warm weather and probably because I wear glasses, provided glare year-round. This was true with halogens and LED's. * LED's mounted on the ROPS and cab roof made it difficult to see where the cut / uncut grass met. I'm guessing it has...
www.orangetractortalks.com
I have a non cab LX2610. I replaced all the OEM bulbs (headlights, turn signals) with LED bulbs. I bought a light bracket to mount 4 LED lights on my ROP's. I made sure the OEM rear outlet would handle the wattage which it does. I then installed a light bar on the front of the tractors grill guard (which protects objects from penetrating your radiator grill) using magnets which screw into the light bar. I had to run wires to a switch I installed on the dash, back to a relay and then to the battery. They all work awesome and a huge improvement over the OEM lights. I believe the light brackets were purchased from 911 as well as the grill guard (which obstructed the headlights).