Lift arm ball joint (swivel) debate....

D2Cat

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There was a thread on a swivel joint that was difficult to free up that got me to thinking.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-lift-arm-ball-joint

So let's have a debate on Thanksgiving day!

Some say oil liberally. Others say don't lube with anything, it attracts dirt/dust and causes premature wear.

I've always followed the second idea, never lubed any of the swivel joints on any of my tractors. I've never had one seized up and never replaced one. I also use the 3pt arms so the swivels are used almost all the time, so there isn't time for them to seize. My oldest tractor with 3 pt is a 1965 Case 730.
 

boz1989

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B2910 fel 60 mmm, Land Pride rb1572
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I think that if you use them on a regular basis you're fine. If you only use them once in a blue moon, lubricate. The only ones I have had problems with are replacement ends I used for my adapter, or tractors that we never use .

Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk
 

Jpatrick

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Apr 4, 2017
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Never had or seen a reason to lubricate the ball part of a swivel joint. It does help with some implements to lightly grease the pin before instaling on 3 point hitch. Yes, the grease attracts dirt, but wear just isn't really an issue here. Just wipe the pin with a rag before you re-lubricate.
 

al m

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I use dry Molly spray on my woodworking equipment that I don't want sawdust sticking to,it's expensive but a small squirt sticks on for a very long time,it might be a good option
 

Lil Foot

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I don't lube them often, but when I do, I use dry silicone spray.
 

baronetm

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L3901HST w/FEL, 3rd fnct. BH77 BH, 5' Bushhog, 6' BBL, 42" Forks, WoodMaxx WM-8H
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Since I'm the guy that stated, lubricate liberally in the stated thread I will state my case.

Nowhere in my L3901 manual do I see any mention of lubing the 3 point balls or linkages, and on my previously owned B7100 I also kept them lubed. I lube my 3 Pt balls, pins etc. with a mixture of 30 wt. motor oil and Marvel Mystery oil, same stuff I have always lubed the door hinges on vehicles with, a concoction from an old mechanic I met. When I detach an Implement I wipe the balls and pins with a rag and re-oil.

Why I lube, 45 years in industrial maintenance and a lot of rusted worn out machine components because the person responsible for lubrication did not want to do their job. In my experience lubricate, it's cheaper than parts, labor and down time. I will also go a bit father and use the advice my Father gave me years ago, he was a power shovel and loader operator in a large gravel pit, keep it lubricated. The damage done to pins, bushings and bearings by neglecting lubricated will become very evident in a short period of time. He found out after a two week vacation when another operator ran his equipment, it was not lubricated and required many thousands of dollars in materials and labor to repair the damage. We as tractor owners do not have a corporate account to repair our equipment, if in doubt lubricate it.

I agree that lube does capture dust and dirt. But a dry ball joint will also attract dust, dirt and moisture. I believe in this application most of the dirt will be captured by the outer film of lubricant, and what does get into the center of the ball will be held in suspension thus causing less wear because of the lube. Lubricant is also very good at dispelling or limiting the egress of moisture and oxygen on metal surfaces the major causes of rust.

For what little I think these ball joints move I do not believe a little dust or dirt that gets into them will wear them as fast as dry rusting similar metals. My lift arms may sit on the shelf in the barn for weeks at a time while the BH is mounted and with a film of oil they are always free and seems to slide on to the implements pins easier when mounting. Those that are using there 3 pt. hitch frequently as stated may never have and issue, but how many of us use our 2 point hitch every day. Also, we are not rotating these ball joints for hours or under conditions as would be done with a lapping compound which has some very hard silica imbedded in it.

After some further online research into the question it reminded me of my own practice of spraying silicone on hydraulic cylinder rams. I do believe that a silicone or similar spray may work well in this application resisting the cling of dust/dirt and provide a protective film from moisture. I have always sprayed hydraulic cylinder rams on my tractors and the leveling cylinders on my motor home with silicone to keep debris from clinging to the shaft and being ingested into the cylinder shaft wiper and seals causing potential hydraulic leaks. I my give this a try and see what results I get.

Maybe a tractor owner who runs his tractor for 10-12 hours a day, 6-7 days a week making a living will chime in with their thoughts and practice, to me that would be the ultimate testimonial.

Thanks for reading my point of view, looking forward to reading your comments.
 
Last edited:

prof.fate

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Nov 9, 2017
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I have seen the results of no lube on many many things.

I have never seen anything worn out from over-lubing...sure, it can trap dirt and such, but is this 'sandpaper' reality or an urban myth?

I can say the perma-lube/no lube tie rod ends and ball joints on cars last a LOT longer than the kind you must lube...now is that because the lube type are not lubed or because too many over lube and blow out the rubber till the grease leaks out (and dirt/moisture gets in)? I don't know.

I just bought an L175 (mid 70s) with 1340 hours on it..all the 3pt balls were dry, some won't move...I lubed them (grease) and they now all move. I like lube.
 

RCW

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I hit mine every couple years with a shot of fluid film.
 

cthomas

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I try to lube everything once a year and give every zirc a two second pump(Milwaukee cordless electric grease gun). As a dealership tech have seen the trouble with overgreasing, but, I had to replace control arms/ball joint due to the grease drying up and making noise in the component.