Lets talk "3D printers"

[Runs With Scissors]

I print the tap drill size hole with 4 or 5 walls and just use a standard tap for threads. Originally tried those fancy self threading screws for plastic but they were expensive if you needed multiple sizes. I engauge the thread at least 3x the screw diameter. For really strong joints with screws I have printed hex pockets to drop nuts into. For blind nuts just put them in the middle of a part after the clearance hole and stop the print when the pocket is printed to drop the nut in. Then restart the print with just a clearance hole for a couple mm.
I also use machine screws in wood now. Bought special taps and it's amazing how strong the threads are. Have put benches together with then and can't believe how the threads hold. Made a packout for them also with 3d printing and kaizen foam
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That's only a few of my Milwaukee tools. The packouts are really nice to keep the accessories and tool together when you need to grab one for a job.

You will find many good printers are available today. Multi color will be my next printer. Support for stuff from China on any of them usually means emails to China, providing videos, waiting for parts from China, and fixing problems yourself if you're blessed with a lemon. Otherwise they are usually pretty reliable. Bambu seems to be one brand tied to the cloud and very intrusive into your personal info so even though they have a good reputation, I avoided them. Prusa is the innovator of high quality reliable machines that basically everyone else copies. Check out printables.com for models to get started printing with. You will soon have a pile of benches .

Thanks for the info. I was wondering about if you could "tap" those holes manually, especially for fine/finer threads.

What "flavors" of filament do you prefer typically?

I read a lot about the different filaments and their Pro's Vs. Cons, but with all the info out there sometimes it's difficult to separate the "wheat from the chaff".

 

[mikester]

I'll sell you my printer. If the corners don't warp and peel off the table during printing then prints look pretty. Keep your finished prints away from heat and sunlight to stop them from shrinking and warping. Don't put too much force on finished parts or they break.

I get better finished parts from my CNC mill, many times it's faster the cut than print and I don't have to make 3 scrap parts to make one good one. I can also make bigger parts out of materials like aluminum and steel as well as plastic.

 

[Sidekick]

If you're getting warping, check your bed temp in a dozen spots. Usually too cool a bed makes things curl

I only use PLA and TPU for soft items. I don't have a vented enclosure and most other materials outgass bad stuff. My 3d prints are all used indoors and stay good. Good for prototyping. I'm looking into trying sand casting using single layer prints that vaporize when the hot aluminum is poured. I have made things like lampshades that have been exposed to sun for 10 years without problems. Here's a pic of single layer lampshades I made

I just needed some thumbscrews and printed handles that 1/4 20 bolts press in.

Last week I needed to round over a batch of plywood corners and found router template models on printables. An hour later I had an accurate template to speed up the job. Worked so good that I printed the whole set and made a stand

I also designed and printed a planting caddy for use in my garden and seed carriers

These are just a couple examples of what I use the printer for. If you want outdoor prints get a good enclosed printer that can be vented. Remember if you want to print things like carbon fiber it's up to $100 a roll for good filament so it pays to play with pla before committing. Also filament can absorb moisture so drying sometimes is required to get it to print. Especially in the summer with high humidity present. Models developed on a 3d printer can be a good guide when you set up a CNC machine to mass produce them.