I have a bx2670 and it has developed a substantial leak at the lever that engages the PTO. It looks darn near impossible to repair without taking the whole transmission off the frame. Am I missing something or is it just a difficult task. Thanks for the help.
Leak at PTO shift lever
- Thread starter Grossjas
- Start date
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Looks pretty easy to me.
Remove the lever.
Remove the bolt and keeper (50,60)
Note how the spring sits and engages the valve.
Pull the valve out and replace the 2 O-rings and reverse install.
Remove the lever.
Remove the bolt and keeper (50,60)
Note how the spring sits and engages the valve.
Pull the valve out and replace the 2 O-rings and reverse install.
Well, I got everything disassembled and even had to cut a small portion of the frame away to access it.. probably worse case senario the the casting on the transmission has rotted away at the shift levers mating point. Has anyone ever seen this before? Any suggestions? Pics added for reference
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Yeah it’s a bummer the outer o ring is mostly exposed due to the corrosion. I’m going to mill a new groove to move the outer o ring deeper in the shaft. Looks like I have about 1/4” to move it. Fingers crossed.
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
What is the casting? Aluminum or cast iron?
That looks like a good amount of missing material. I assume there was nothing there and that is what you saw when you removed the lever. Is that correct or did you pick and scrape off loose material? Could you machine a plug to go in that hole and build it back up with an epoxy steel (and do anything beneficial) then remove the plug. Will that keeper plate work with the current gap, what does it push against on the lever?
That looks like a good amount of missing material. I assume there was nothing there and that is what you saw when you removed the lever. Is that correct or did you pick and scrape off loose material? Could you machine a plug to go in that hole and build it back up with an epoxy steel (and do anything beneficial) then remove the plug. Will that keeper plate work with the current gap, what does it push against on the lever?
I cleaned up all loose material, the keeper will still hold it in place. I’ve never heard of epoxy steel. I’ll look it up.
JimDeL
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Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Make plug from solid PTFE (Teflon) or coat the plug with some release agent or wax.
If it doesn’t need to be built up then I would just ignore the suggestion and see if it works, then move on or increase the repair.
I would be very interested in figuring out what or how the corrosion occurred and how to stop it from continuing.
If it doesn’t need to be built up then I would just ignore the suggestion and see if it works, then move on or increase the repair.
I would be very interested in figuring out what or how the corrosion occurred and how to stop it from continuing.
The fix has been implemented. I added another groove to allow the o ring to be deeper in the cylinder but not interfere with any of the ports and while I was at it I built it up with job weld steel then painted. I believe this will fix but won’t know till tomorrow when I add the oil. Fingers crossed, and while I was at it I changed the enigine
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Update: Fix worked like a champ no leaks, and it’s all runs smoothly!