LA302 Loader Valve Float Detent Replacement - How To Instructions?

[NoJacketRequired]

Well folks I've procrastinated long enough. After complaining since purchasing the tractor (B7510) that the float detent on the loader valve (LA302) would work sometimes and not other, then later complaining that it had ceased to function entirely, I'm finally getting around to changing it.

The local Kubota dealer has provided "Kit, Detent, Regen" p/n YW242-92102. The exterior housing on the detent portion of the up/down spool is marked with YW242 so I have to believe I've got the right kit to use in rebuilding the detent function.

Now for the big ask... Can anybody who has done this before please explain the process of changing out the detent bits and pieces to make this work?

This kit already has the bottom end completely assembled within the big hex cylinder so I don't have to mess with the four steel balls etc. I just want to ensure I go at this the right way. I'm assuming that it's as simple as unthreading the big hex cylinder, unthreading the central shaft with its spring, keepers, o-ring and backer, removing all the old stuff and replacing with the new.

Am I missing something here? Should I be applying grease to any part of this mechanism to ensure its longevity? I'll admit that I'm tempted to take an extension tube on a spray can of corrosion-inhibiting oil like Krown or similar and spraying some up through the vent hole in the end cap of the big hex tube. I know my current detent function has died because it has rusted out. I'd rather not have to replace this part again any time soon as it's not cheap (CAD$300 + tax).

Thanks for your helpful replies.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Well folks I've procrastinated long enough. After complaining since purchasing the tractor (B7510) that the float detent on the loader valve (LA302) would work sometimes and not other, then later complaining that it had ceased to function entirely, I'm finally getting around to changing it.

The local Kubota dealer has provided "Kit, Detent, Regen" p/n YW242-92102. The exterior housing on the detent portion of the up/down spool is marked with YW242 so I have to believe I've got the right kit to use in rebuilding the detent function.

Now for the big ask... Can anybody who has done this before please explain the process of changing out the detent bits and pieces to make this work?

This kit already has the bottom end completely assembled within the big hex cylinder so I don't have to mess with the four steel balls etc. I just want to ensure I go at this the right way. I'm assuming that it's as simple as unthreading the big hex cylinder, unthreading the central shaft with its spring, keepers, o-ring and backer, removing all the old stuff and replacing with the new.

Am I missing something here? Should I be applying grease to any part of this mechanism to ensure its longevity? I'll admit that I'm tempted to take an extension tube on a spray can of corrosion-inhibiting oil like Krown or similar and spraying some up through the vent hole in the end cap of the big hex tube. I know my current detent function has died because it has rusted out. I'd rather not have to replace this part again any time soon as it's not cheap (CAD$300 + tax).

Thanks for your helpful replies.

Never seen or touched one but it looks pretty straight forward. K,L,M,N, and O are assembled and then screwed into the end of the spool. Then the detent assembly and cover is slipped over them and screwed into the casting. Some magic allows the detent mechanism to engage the extension on the end of the spool. If that is not the case you will find out when you try to remove the old parts.

I would expect the detent assembly to already be greased out of the bag. I would not apply anything other than ordinary #1 grease and only if its not already greased.

PS> I would make sure the shop floor is clean and smooth - those detents sometimes run away from home.

Dan

 

[NoJacketRequired]

Never seen or touched one but it looks pretty straight forward. K,L,M,N, and O are assembled and then screwed into the end of the spool. Then the detent assembly and cover is slipped over them and screwed into the casting. Some magic allows the detent mechanism to engage the extension on the end of the spool. If that is not the case you will find out when you try to remove the old parts.

I would expect the detent assembly to already be greased out of the bag. I would not apply anything other than ordinary #1 grease and only if its not already greased.

PS> I would make sure the shop floor is clean and smooth - those detents sometimes run away from home.

Dan

Thanks for sharing your thoughts, Dan. I "thought" it looked that straightforward but wasn't sure.

All parts included in the kit are dry, very dry, so I think I'll likely use some white lithium grease on the end of the plunger (part E in the case of the up/down portion of the valve) - this is the part that slides past the four detent balls.

The nice thing with the way this is packaged is that I don't have to mess with the detent balls - they are already pre-assembled within the outer hex cover. Good on Kubota for taking away what all reports here indicate is a real PITA to assemble. As you mentioned, balls rolling off into places where they will never again be found. Nobody needs that headache and it looks like Kubota has figured that out.

 

[TheOldHokie]

The nice thing with the way this is packaged is that I don't have to mess with the detent balls - they are already pre-assembled within the outer hex cover. Good on Kubota for taking away what all reports here indicate is a real PITA to assemble. As you mentioned, balls rolling off into places where they will never again be found. Nobody needs that headache and it looks like Kubota has figured that out.

Careful. I have installed a couple detent kits and they don't always stay where they started.......

Dan