LA211 Hydraulic Leak

[BA Guy]

Hello-my first post on the forum.

I have a BX2200 with a La211 front end loader, and a belly mower. This Kubota set-up has performed well for me for 15-years now.

I noticed over the last few weeks that both "arms" of the front end loader are both beginning to leak a small amount of hydraulic fluid. So far the leak is a drip on each side about every five minutes or so.

I don't own a trailer large enough to carry the Kubota, so each time I send the Kubota in for servicing I have to pay round trip costs for pick-up and return-I think about $200 last time.

So, my questions are;

Do the seals need replaced asap?
Are they easy to replace myself if needed?
Can I remove the arms and just take them to the dealership for repair?

Any comments would be appreciated.

 

[mickeyd]

Wrlcome to OTT from Alabama. USA is a large place. What state are you from?

Wolfman will be able to answer that for you.

 

[koja]

Yes the cylinders can be rebuilt . I would remove them myself and take them somewhere and have them rebuilt .

 

[ShaunBlake]

BA Guy, welcome to the forum!

You didn't get your first question answered, and I think it might have been your most urgent. It isn't harmful to operate the loader with the lead you describe. You have time to accumulate the tools and materials for the repair, as well as time to bone up on how to do it.

Oh, by the way: by the time you follow koja's excellent advice of removing the cylinders yourself, you will have done the hardest part of the job.

 

[BA Guy]

Thanks for all of the replies.

I think I will continue to use the loader and get in touch with one of the local dealers for an estimate of costs for parts, and a quote on my pulling the hydraulics and taking them in to have them make the repairs.

Maybe I can find an on-line "how to" on replacing the seals.

Thanks again!

 

[OldeEnglish]

There is a lot of videos on YouTube showing how to rebuild cylinders. You can find all of the part numbers and break down per cylinder type here....
http://www.kubotabooks.com/AutoIndex/index.php?dir=Loaders and buckets/&file=LA211.pdf

Hope that helps you out

 

[D2Cat]

The least expensive way to fix you cylinders is to remove them, disassemble them and then compare purchase of seals at "Coleman Implement" (http://www.colemanequip.com/) and your local hydraulic shop.

If you purchase seals at local shop let them assemble the parts. Go home and install cyl.

If you purchase dealer parts, study YouTube or other sources to gain confidence in assembly.

Take pictures as you remove and disassemble so you'll know exactly how things came off.

The hardest part of this job is like most, getting started!!

 

[Stubbyie]

Every tractor with hydraulics either is leaking or will leak. It's the nature of the beast.

A few drips won't matter; with use it will either get incrementally worse or occasionally stop as seals swell with heat and use. Depending on what you're doing, consider installing wipers on the ram shafts to help keep grit from working back down into the cylinder body and eating the internal seals.

Keep an eye on the hydraulic fluid level and keep on hand a gallon of the same fluid now in use. Use a clean one-piece funnel (two-piece funnels come apart and drop into inaccessible internal places) when refilling.

As you lose fluid you'll probably notice over time a slight degradation of loader capability (especially if pointed up- or downhill) until it stops altogether or only lifts grudgingly half way up. Tractor shifting (GST or HST) may also be come sluggish as fluid level drops.

Don't use a 'universal' cheap hydraulic fluid unless you know that's what's onboard now. And consider going to a better quality fluid at the next change if it is now 'universal' (universal fluid isn't, for Kubota).

Removing the cylinders shouldn't be impossible, just difficult, depending on age and how it's been used. May need a bigger sledge hammer. Hardest problem might be getting hoses loose. Consider using a set of hydraulic service wrenches and Craftsman flare-nut crow-foot 'sockets' on a ratchet. Using a common adjustable crescent-type wrench will round-over the wrench flats and make life miserable. Don't use pipe wrenches.

If you're in the metro area not far from River Spirit or Gander Mtn there are several good commercial industrial hydraulic rebuilders that can work on the cylinders for you at decent prices with quick turnaround.

Please post back your continuing experiences so we may all learn.

 

[BA Guy]

WoW-great answers to my questions.

Thanks for all of the information and I will spend a bit of time determining what best suits my budget and limited mechanical skills.

I'll let you know how it goes. Might be a while.

 

[Stubbyie]

The pins you need to remove probably have grease fittings in one end.

Determine which direction your pins need to move in order to come out. Might want to refer to parts schematic. Usually, the direction of travel is toward the grease fitting.

Remove grease fitting and soak internally with Kroil or other higher-quality penetrant. Reinstall grease fitting, pump full of grease, work loader, remove fitting, soak again with penetrant, repeat process several times. Can use rubber-nose air gun to blow penetrant deeply into grease passages.

Pins may be difficult to remove. Avoid using heat if possible. Try electric heat gun before going to torch. If heated expect to repaint.

Double check for any clips or rings possibly restraining pins. If cross-bolts (pins, clips) expect burrs and trapped foreign material. Again refer to parts schematic.

Have willing helper hold brass drift--to save hands rig a clamping-type holder or drill a hole in a 2x. Drift should be near--almost--full diameter. Beat the stuffing out of it with bigger sledge. May take some serious pounding. Expect difficulty if first time out and been exposed--as most are--to grit and mud and water combined with lack of grease over time.

Please continue posting back your experiences so we may all learn.