I want to use my L6060 to pull my single axle dump trailer which is equipped with electric brakes. Any ideas on how to connect the electric brakes (7 pin connector on trailer) to the Kubota?
L6060 pulling a trailer
- Thread starter MoCo
- Start date
That is going to be hard, as you will need a electric brake controller and a variable brake switch that will be mounted of the brake pedal. Unless you just mount a on/off button switch that is going to apply voltage on each individual electric brake magnet which the amperage draw would be 3.0 to 3.2 max amps at 12 to 13 volts on 7-inch brake magnets and 3.2 to 4.0 max amps at 12 to 13 volts on 10 and 12-inch brake magnets. The max amperage draw for the brake magnets on a single axle trailer (2 brakes) would be 6.3 to 6.8 max amps on a 7-inch brake system and 7.5 to 8.2 max amps on 10 and 12-inch brake system. The amps will be higher if using a tandem axle or triple axle trailer. But the bad thing about doing it this way is the brakes are on or off. Or you could also just install a brake controller and use the manual lever(also called a test lever) to apply the brakes as needed at the rate needed. Are you just concerned about getting brakes on the trailer to work or do you want lights, brakes, and the charge circuit to work?
I have not, but ran across this when looking for tips on towing out toy hauler.
www.orangetractortalks.com
Trailer pin (spade) trailer connector
Has anyone ever mounted a trailer jack on the back of their tractor? We have a dump trailer we would like to pull with our L6060. To safely pull the trailer up and down hills with a load, we thought we should mount a brake controller in the cab. Does Kubota make a trailer kit with brake...
www.orangetractortalks.com
I searched this site and found this. Listen to NIW as he is wise.
www.orangetractortalks.com
Trailer pin (spade) trailer connector
Has anyone ever mounted a trailer jack on the back of their tractor? We have a dump trailer we would like to pull with our L6060. To safely pull the trailer up and down hills with a load, we thought we should mount a brake controller in the cab. Does Kubota make a trailer kit with brake...
www.orangetractortalks.com
Ok, I will go off topic and ask about left/right braking on snow/ice, as I am scared to do it unless it is a very slow speed with my tractor. But had an old rabbit that I installed dual brake parking levers and could lock either the left or right rear tires. Oh man was that fun of gravel or ice(lakes). Don't get me wrong it was fun on pavement too just hard on tires. But it seems like the tractor has a higher center of gravity(do want to roll it) or I am just a wimp in my older age.
Many thanks for all this. My concern was to avoid the trailer pushing the tractor down the hill (I need gravel at the bottom). My truck has trailer brakes but there is not enough space to turn a truck and trailer at the bottom of the hill. I have never had a problem pulling my single-axle dump (rated for a safe load of 2 tons) or dumping it with my L6060, but I have never tried going down a fairly steep hill with it. So I thought the electric trailer brakes could be a safety feature. After reading this and the other thread, perhaps the safe approach is to dump the load at the top of the hill and use the loader bucket to run up and down. Slow, but I have to remind myself this is a hobby.
On my old 8N I towed a hay trailer on some hilly ground. I used the break away brake’s battery to power the electric brakes on the trailer and I mounted a momentary on push button switch on each rear fender of the tractor. Worked great. Not sexy or anything other than on or off, but it kept things straight and rubber side down.
Edit, also, since I could apply trailer brakes without the tractor brakes, in reverse, I could apply the trailer brakes and jack knife trailer to make some really tight turns in reverse. Which is good when the door to the barn is 30 ft from a fence and the trailer is 22 ft long.
Edit, also, since I could apply trailer brakes without the tractor brakes, in reverse, I could apply the trailer brakes and jack knife trailer to make some really tight turns in reverse. Which is good when the door to the barn is 30 ft from a fence and the trailer is 22 ft long.
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mcmxi
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Equipment
***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25TLB
I added the factory trailer outlet when I ordered the MX and it came standard (?) on the M, and I had the idea that I could control the electric brakes on the dump trailers when towing. I have a spare Tekonsha brake controller but haven't got around to figuring out the wiring. It was simple plug and play on my F250 but there are instructions for hard wiring too.
Like many brake controllers, the Tekonsha has an onboard accelerometer and uses progressive braking. This is yet another project to get to at some point.
Like many brake controllers, the Tekonsha has an onboard accelerometer and uses progressive braking. This is yet another project to get to at some point.
RCW
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Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
MoCo - just make sure you have it in 4WD, especially if you use the FEL to haul the stone down the hill.
That way you will get some braking help from the front wheels if the rears get light and loose traction.
That way you will get some braking help from the front wheels if the rears get light and loose traction.
I pull a 7000# dump trailer with a M7060. I've thought about adding a brake controller. I have an automotive style 7 pin connector.
There is no brake wiring on this model. North America, in general may not have brake wiring on tractors.
What I planned to do was get a simple controller with a slide/hand spike, and just use that to activate the brakes. It should be simple 1 wire to the connector, plus the 12v to power the unit.
I've never felt the need for it except in winter. I tow on highway, as fast as she'll go.
Whatever you do, tow on the drawbar, not the 3pt with one of those adapters. Some will chain the 3pt hitch down if they do. That would likely be fine but subject to failure and forgetting.
I had a 2" receiver adapter made up to put over the drawbar to use a truck hitch and ball.
There is no brake wiring on this model. North America, in general may not have brake wiring on tractors.
What I planned to do was get a simple controller with a slide/hand spike, and just use that to activate the brakes. It should be simple 1 wire to the connector, plus the 12v to power the unit.
I've never felt the need for it except in winter. I tow on highway, as fast as she'll go.
Whatever you do, tow on the drawbar, not the 3pt with one of those adapters. Some will chain the 3pt hitch down if they do. That would likely be fine but subject to failure and forgetting.
I had a 2" receiver adapter made up to put over the drawbar to use a truck hitch and ball.
No need for a switched circuit. A RedArc has a position/inertia switch to activate. And a dial to adjust sensitivity. Good unit had it on a truck. New truck's is built in, but the RedArc worked great. Istall was stupid easy too.
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