L5450 with FEL not working

[TheOldHokie]

Hi Dan, yes to the first diagram.

The second diagram, thankyou, I hadn't seen that diagram, it was looped back onto itself with a bridging piece, no male and female connectors and hanging down over the right side of the axle, I figure it is a basic on/off switch for whatever it is attached to.

I wonder if before someone rearranged everything so nothing worked, it was attached to the levers on the right hand side on the tractor fender? (Already pictured above)

Edit, the twin ports to the PTO on the right hand side are connected to the twin lever set up on the fender.
[/QUOTE]
The undervseat valve is a standard factory option. It gets supply and return directly off the side of the transmission. The two couplerscare for hooking up a cylinder. Therer is no reason for them to be looped together.

This is standard stuff. You dont need to guess what they do or how they vwork - simply ask.

Dan

 

[Rusty Cuts]

Hi Dan, yes to the first diagram.

The second diagram, thankyou, I hadn't seen that diagram, it was looped back onto itself with a bridging piece, no male and female connectors and hanging down over the right side of the axle, I figure it is a basic on/off switch for whatever it is attached to.

I wonder if before someone rearranged everything so nothing worked, it was attached to the levers on the right hand side on the tractor fender? (Already pictured above)

Edit, the twin ports to the PTO on the right hand side are connected to the twin lever set up on the fender.

The undervseat valve is a standard factory option. It gets supply and return directly off the side of the transmission. The two couplerscare for hooking up a cylinder. Therer is no reason for them to be looped together.

This is standard stuff. You dont need to guess what they do or how they vwork - simply ask.

Dan

 

[TheOldHokie]

The undervseat valve is a standard factory option. It gets supply and return directly off the side of the transmission. The two couplerscare for hooking up a cylinder. Therer is no reason for them to be looped together.

This is standard stuff. You dont need to guess what they do or how they vwork - simply ask.

Dan

I can show you how to correctly plumb the other valve in. It is aftermarket not factory and would be daisy chained off the loader valve. Do it correctly and you wind up with 3 sets of rear outlets. That valve looks like it hascseen better days.....

Dan

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Your wedge bolts should be solid, not hollow.

 

[Rusty Cuts]

Your wedge bolts should be solid, not hollow.

*Groan* yeah, I am hoping that the side wall of the box steel will have enough integrity, if I could get the original engineering diagram then I can make it close to identical. The bolt is "probably" ok, but not high tensile steel, however I can fix that later.

I have the option of cutting plate steel and welding, or adding steel to the sides, total width left is about 3/16 of an inch or 5mm.

 

[Rusty Cuts]

I can show you how to correctly plumb the other valve in. It is aftermarket not factory and would be daisy chained off the loader valve. Do it correctly and you wind up with 3 sets of rear outlets. That valve looks like it hascseen better days.....

Dan

Yes, the valve has been through a lot.

I have added more cable ties to assist in working where things go.

Pictures following....

So, Yellow or yellow/white cable ties is the output, originally connected to the outlet pipe for the FEL.

Green cable tie is the sump return pipe and still connected.

Red is the inlet or pump return pipe.

Yellow and red lines are currently looped together by myself.

Black/White cable ties from the control valve are to the original pto connector.

Posting everything from my phone, hope fully there aren't any mixups.

 

[Rusty Cuts]

Photo 1 is the tagged hoses entering from below, note the looped in/out, nothing goes to the valve in this circuit.

Photo 2 the right hand hose is capped and exits from the top of the valve/control box.

Photo 3 has the black/white cable ties for the original pto cicuit, the red cable tie for the return line from the valve.
Above it is the hose to nowhere...

Photo 4 showing the capped elbow piece, presumably the other return line and the plug in the top, cousin to the "hose to nowhere". I am now thinking this whole set up is ridiculous and does nothing extra to the original lines to the PTO.

Photo 5, the loop of the 2 hoses from the left hand valve beside the driver's seat which currently does nothing.

So I think my options are to figure out how to plumb the twin lever set up giving me those 2 circuits only, plumb in the twin lever set up and separately plumb the original pto hydraulics or plumb in the original pto hydraulics only.

Will the original pto hydraulics need a sump return line for any future equipment? If so then more T pieces off the sump line may be required.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Photo 1 is the tagged hoses entering from below, note the looped in/out, nothing goes to the valve in this circuit.

Photo 2 the right hand hose is capped and exits from the top of the valve/control box.

Photo 3 has the black/white cable ties for the original pto cicuit, the red cable tie for the return line from the valve.
Above it is the hose to nowhere...

Photo 4 showing the capped elbow piece, presumably the other return line and the plug in the top, cousin to the "hose to nowhere". I am now thinking this whole set up is ridiculous and does nothing extra to the original lines to the PTO.

Photo 5, the loop of the 2 hoses from the left hand valve beside the driver's seat which currently does nothing.

So I think my options are to figure out how to plumb the twin lever set up giving me those 2 circuits only, plumb in the twin lever set up and separately plumb the original pto hydraulics or plumb in the original pto hydraulics only.

Will the original pto hydraulics need a sump return line for any future equipment? If so then more T pieces off the sump line may be required.

You do not have to choose one or the other. ALL of those valves can be plumbed together seamlessly and you will have 3 sets of outlets. They are called "rear remotes" not PTO. Whoever added the two spool valve did not know what he/she was doing.


The single spool valve under the seat is a factory option that and already hooked up. The two hoses that are looped together are the outlets for an implement. They should be going to the rear as shown in the parts diagram. Otherwise it is fine exactly as it is. If you hooked those hoses to a cylinder the lever would operate it.

The diagram below shows how the two spool valve on the fender gets daisy chained off the loader valve circuit.

This is damn near trivial. Please slow down - all you need is a couple new hoses, some quick connects, and a little rerouting of the two spool valve connections.

Do you even know the fender mounted valve actually works? Cosmetically it is in very poor shape.

Dan

 

[Rusty Cuts]

You do not have to choose one or the other. ALL of those valves can be plumbed together seamlessly and you will have 3 sets of outlets. They are called "rear remotes" not PTO. Whoever added the two spool valve did not know what he/she was doing.


The single spool valve under the seat is a factory option that and already hooked up. The two hoses that are looped together are the outlets for an implement. They should be going to the rear as shown in the parts diagram. Otherwise it is fine exactly as it is. If you hooked those hoses to a cylinder the lever would operate it.

The diagram below shows how the two spool valve on the fender gets daisy chained off the loader valve circuit.

This is damn near trivial. Please slow down - all you need is a couple new hoses, some quick connects, and a little rerouting of the two spool valve connections.

Do you even know the fender mounted valve actually works? Cosmetically it is in very poor shape.

Dan

View attachment 104938

 

[Rusty Cuts]

Hi Dan. Yes whoever worked on the hydraulics had no idea, the manager of the farm said the hydraulics didn't work on the tractor and the FEL had been sitting in the paddock from before she started 9 years ago.

In the current market,the managers lack of knowledge and the fact that nobody bothered tracing the circuits meant I purchased a 13k to 17k tractor for 8.5k Australian dollars. Adjust down by about 30% for USD

I had figured the old rear remotes are probably good to go, the hoses are in good condition too.

The twin valve unit on the fender hasn't been used since Adam was a boy judging by the corrosion around it, I suppose that as long as oil has been inside it then it will work as it should.

I have 2 spare hoses hydraulic hoses, 1 at least has a wasp nest inside it, so it's a full on 3 x clean for them, I reckon bike brake cable will clean the dry debris first, then air blasting followed by detergent and water, let dry and go again....

And I want to say thankyou for the help, much as I figured out the first bit, I didn't know about the rear remotes and have been uncertain about the other hoses etc.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Hi Dan. Yes whoever worked on the hydraulics had no idea, the manager of the farm said the hydraulics didn't work on the tractor and the FEL had been sitting in the paddock from before she started 9 years ago.

In the current market,the managers lack of knowledge and the fact that nobody bothered tracing the circuits meant I purchased a 13k to 17k tractor for 8.5k Australian dollars. Adjust down by about 30% for USD

I had figured the old rear remotes are probably good to go, the hoses are in good condition too.

The twin valve unit on the fender hasn't been used since Adam was a boy judging by the corrosion around it, I suppose that as long as oil has been inside it then it will work as it should.

I have 2 spare hoses hydraulic hoses, 1 at least has a wasp nest inside it, so it's a full on 3 x clean for them, I reckon bike brake cable will clean the dry debris first, then air blasting followed by detergent and water, let dry and go again....

And I want to say thankyou for the help, much as I figured out the first bit, I didn't know about the rear remotes and have been uncertain about the other hoses etc.

You are welcome. You can replace thst addon valve for $120. Might consider that given the conditiin of the old one.

 

[Rusty Cuts]

You are welcome. You can replace thst addon valve for $120. Might consider that given the conditiin of the old one.

Replacing the valve etc, I didn't buy at auction hoses and new control valve BEFORE I bought my new home in July last year... there will be more serviceable units.
The Black and white box diagrams, what does P and PB mean, referring back to the Merrick diagram, or my coding, which is the red cable tie, and which is the yellow tie?

Yellow is the original output from the FEL circuit sending hydraulic fluid to the valve

Red I consider either return from FEL or output from it then input to the next receiver in the circuit. So to extend the line... red one end, yellow the other.
I trace circuits better with colours, something to do with buying trailers and fixing wiring to standards...

I guess T is the sump return.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Replacing the valve etc, I didn't buy at auction hoses and new control valve BEFORE I bought my new home in July last year... there will be more serviceable units.
The Black and white box diagrams, what does P and PB mean, referring back to the Merrick diagram, or my coding, which is the red cable tie, and which is the yellow tie?

Yellow is the original output from the FEL circuit sending hydraulic fluid to the valve

Red I consider either return from FEL or output from it then input to the next receiver in the circuit. So to extend the line... red one end, yellow the other.
I trace circuits better with colours, something to do with buying trailers and fixing wiring to standards...

I guess T is the sump return.

P = pressure in to valve
PB = pressure out to next device, aka power beyond
T ,= direct return to tank.

If yellow is pump out from block it is P.

The hose going back to the block is PB.

Most vslves have labels on the ports. Common abreviations:

P = pressure in
PB, BY. N = power beyond
T = tank

 

[Rusty Cuts]

P = pressure in to valve
PB = pressure out to next device, aka power beyond
T ,= direct return to tank.

If yellow is pump out from block it is P.

The hose going back to the block is PB.

Most vslves have labels on the ports. Common abreviations:

P = pressure in
PB, BY. N = power beyond
T = tank

Thank you