L4740 - loader control problems part deaux

[WStringer2]

Good evening folks,

In a previous thread I mentioned having FEL control arm problems and a couple of posted some helpful info. It seemed that my arm didn't have enough play in the arm to raise the FEL. Using the parts diagram provided by Wolfman, I adjusted the linkage to "re-center" the control arm. It seemed to do the trick when I first started using the loader, but after an hour or so, it stopped responding at all.

Turns out the extra play gave me enough leverage to break what I'm guessing is a bracket that attaches to the control valve (the part right under the nut labeled # 130 in the attached diagram). I've also included a picture of the broken bracket. The tractor is almost 5 years old, but has not been used much, it only has 65 hours on it.

What would cause enough resistance in the control valve to make that part break and any tips on fixing it?

Thanks!

 

[Tooljunkie]

It appears that was the source of your original trouble. Adjusting it just compensated for the bending metal. By adjusting you just set it up to fail.
That may be a weak link in the hydraulic controls,so remove bracket and replace it or repair it and add gusset to strengthen it.

Myself- i would either build a new stronger one or repair and strengthen original.

Deux, by the way....

 

[CaveCreekRay]

That's deux-deux! (Sorry Frank!)

I agree with Frank. Better to have that part strengthened. But still and all, it seems uber-wacky that 65 hours would break metal. That ain't right. I would re-install the strengthened part and then operate it through the limits to find the binding point, adjusting the bracket out of the stress area if possible. There may have been a defect on the part from manufacturing, emanating from the hole. Stress cracks can and have spread quickly under relatively low stress. If this machine was exposed to the weather, those cracks can grow under repeated exposure to water.

My old Ford F1700 was ancient when I got it. In only a few hours of use, it developed a crack across a major frame component holding on the FEL. I got it into the local welding shop before it broke and they welded it AND put another small piece on top too spread out the stress. Never had another problem.

The good news is it shouldn't cost much to fix. The expensive thing will be the Kubota paint!

Let us know what you work out.

Ray

 

[WStringer2]

Sorry, I'm from Louisiana so that's deaux as in Geaux Tigers!! Actually it was just a misspelling, but I did have Geaux on the brain

So it's not likely that there's something wrong in the control valve? My assumption was that something was binding in there and that's what caused the metal bracket to fail. (I'm assuming that the control arm rod is connected to the control valve under the seat, but I'm not sure...I'm new at this tractor business).

Thanks for your input!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The chances of the bracket just having a week point that gave up is more likely than the valve binding.
Replace the bracket and then see if undo force is required to move the valve, if it does then tear into the valve.

 

[WStringer2]

The chances of the bracket just having a week point that gave up is more likely than the valve binding.
Replace the bracket and then see if undo force is required to move the valve, if it does then tear into the valve.

Is there a better (i.e. stronger) source for that bracket than Kubota?

Also, I need to lift the bucket to move my tractor out of the elements, is it safe to switch hoses so I can use curl to raise it? (I assume I need to swap A to B and C to D).

 

[CaveCreekRay]

If you have a couple 2x4s you can drag the bucket backward to your driveway and then jam a 2x4 under the bucket centered under the wheels and back it along, swapping the 2x4s (ala Egyptian pyramid builders) until you get it out of the weather. That way it won't hurt your drive, and you won't have to undo hydraulic lines. If your barn is dirt, just back it in.

Swapping the lines wont hurt either.

 

[WStringer2]

If you have a couple 2x4s you can drag the bucket backward to your driveway and then jam a 2x4 under the bucket centered under the wheels and back it along, swapping the 2x4s (ala Egyptian pyramid builders) until you get it out of the weather. That way it won't hurt your drive, and you won't have to undo hydraulic lines. If your barn is dirt, just back it in.

Swapping the lines wont hurt either.

Thanks for the tip Ray! Unfortunately I had a load in the bucket so I opted to swap the lines. It was easy enough once I figured out which hose swapped to where