L4701 seat rattles my brains, any remedies?

[jcwren]

I just bought a new L4701HST, and one thing I notice is that the seat is hitting the rubber bumpers any time I go over a bump. This isn't an issue of adjusting the spring tension with the T-handle at the back of the seat -- This is when the seat comes up a little and then back down. There's two vertical springs mounted to the seat frame at the rear, and they're not strong springs. When the seat comes up and then back down, the bottom of the seat is hitting the rubber bumpers in the seat frame, and it's very jarring. I don't expect Cadillac rides from a tractor, but this seems a little rough.

I haven't tried adding pool noodles or anything like that yet. I thought I'd check the collective wisdom and see if anyone has already solved this in a more elegant fashion.

Thanks!
--jc

 

[ranger danger]

You need Air ride!

 

[BigG]

Check your tire pressure also. Soft tires will ride better.

 

[jcwren]

You need Air ride!

Whoa, that's a not-inexpensive item. Well, maybe compared to TPH and QA accessories it is. But still...

 

[ranger danger]

You are correct. It is not cheap but, do you plan on running this tractor for a long time? How much is your comfort (back) worth to you. Air in the tires can help some. I'm in the same boat. I've had 2 back surgeries. I just won't take that kind of pain again if I can help it!!

 

[NCL4701]

Mine has been a lot less jarring since I reduced tire pressure in rears to about 15lb. Kept the fronts at 35 due to quite a bit of loader work. Traction is better with lower pressure, too. R4 sidewalls are stiffer than R1’s. Mine has R4’s. If you have R1’s reducing tire pressure will likely have even more effect.

My brother has a JD of similar size that’s used by both him at around 230lb and his wife at barely over 100lb. Don’t know if it was as rough as my L4701 but it was rough and impossible to adjust for their widely varying weight. A retrofitted air ride seat fixed that for them. Only downside is it’s EXPENSIVE.

I would lower the tire pressure first. If that doesn’t get it reasonable, air ride is probably the next step.

 

[Roadworthy]

I also run the rears at about fifteen pounds but if the seat springs bottom that easily perhaps you should investigate more robust springs.

 

[jcwren]

You are correct. It is not cheap but, do you plan on running this tractor for a long time? How much is your comfort (back) worth to you. Air in the tires can help some. I'm in the same boat. I've had 2 back surgeries. I just won't take that kind of pain again if I can help it!!

I'm not adverse to spending money, but I DID just buy this combination, and I was kinda hoping for no more spendy things for a few months

 

[mikester]

I'm not adverse to spending money, but I DID just buy this combination, and I was kinda hoping for no more spendy things for a few months

Save money on air ride now, spend it on chiro and massage therapy later. The choice is yours.

 

[NCL4701]

I would have for practical purposes been required to get air ride had the reduction in tire pressure not improved ride to something acceptable. I was pleasantly surprised at the improvement just dropping to 15lb.

 

[ve9aa]

My BX is way waaaay more bumpy when mowing my old lawn which used to be a cow pasture....compared to my TG1860 (which has the normal 2-spring seat but also 2 "mini-bike" shocks the whole rear assembly rides on. )

I partially solved the bumpiness when mowing in high gear. (it's fine for plowing/blowing/normal slow driving....it's only when I am mowing in high gear that it rattles me bones apart)

What I did was lower tire pressures on my TURF's from stock by 2-3lbs each. (I don't have a FEL)

I also took a Blood pressure cuff bladder-only and inserted it inside a big box store seat pad spongey cushion thing. (the type you might put on your office chair or seat in your car.) Depending on how much mowing I am doing, I'll pump up the large bladder slightly with the hand held bulb.

You'd be surprised how little it takes to make a difference,. Too much air and it feels like you are sitting on one of those big beachball exercise balls you see at the gym or whatever. A few pumps is all it takes.

I also have a similar setup on my big ol' Harley. (bladder inserted under the actual vinyl of the seat) and it definitely helps. I can adjust pressures as I ride to give me different pressure points throughout the day. When mowing w/ the BX, I don't usually adjust it.

I'd say it's at least 50% better than stock, combining these 2 methods.

I likely would not use it snowblowing or using the rear blade(flat ground, going slow).
Just high speed across bumpy terrain.

HTH

 

[jcwren]

Looking closely at the seat, it's really a design flaw. The purpose of the two vertical springs is to make sure the AIS (Ass In Seat) switch is not actuated when there's no weight in the seat. When the operator is seated, the seat base compresses the springs and is resting on the rubber bumpers, and the AIS switch is actuated. When the operator gets bounced up after hitting enough of a bump, the seat base comes off the rubber bumpers, then immediately comes back down and hits them as a hard stop.

Putting any kind of damper material between the seat base and the seat frame will likely result in the AIS switch not getting actuated. Reducing the spring pressure so it doesn't come off the rubber bumpers will result in the AIS switch always thinking there is weight in the seat, so that's no good. In either case, I have no intention of bypassing the switch.

The mechanism in cars for detecting if there's a passenger seat occupant is either a strap that runs side to side in the seat and the "sagging" of the seat with a passenger closes a switch on one side, or on newer vehicles, is a strain gauge similarly mounted that determines the approximate weight of the occupant. The first method would seem to be a better way for it to have been implemented on the tractor.

As a side note, given the concern about rollovers, I'm really surprised there's no engine kill switch when the side to side angle exceeds 45 degrees or the front to rear angle exceeds 60 degrees (or some other equally arbitrary set of values).

 

[mikester]

All K OEM seats are a design flaw unless you are 5 feet tall and weigh 90 lbs.

 

[rScotty]

I just bought a new L4701HST, and one thing I notice is that the seat is hitting the rubber bumpers any time I go over a bump. This isn't an issue of adjusting the spring tension with the T-handle at the back of the seat -- This is when the seat comes up a little and then back down. There's two vertical springs mounted to the seat frame at the rear, and they're not strong springs. When the seat comes up and then back down, the bottom of the seat is hitting the rubber bumpers in the seat frame, and it's very jarring. I don't expect Cadillac rides from a tractor, but this seems a little rough.

I haven't tried adding pool noodles or anything like that yet. I thought I'd check the collective wisdom and see if anyone has already solved this in a more elegant fashion.

Thanks!
--jc

On some of those seats like you describe there is room to add a an additional spring or springs. I've seen some where even the mounting holes were pre-drilled. If there is room, that would be the easy & inexpensive fix for what you describe. Just order more of the same spring parts from your dealer.

Of course the nicest seat mod is not so simple or inexpensive, but is easy enough and really nice.
On some tractors you can replace the entire seat with a 12 volt air cushioned seat from Grammer. They make direct replacement seats for a number of tractors. Most are larger than the L4701, but it's worth a call.
If you are going to do that, my advice is don't mess around with their lesser upgrades. Go for the full air ride seat & compressor combo.

 

[NCL4701]

Was using mine today for volunteer work at church moving boulders and phone poles for a disc golf course. No time for pics today. Some of the terrain was VERY rough and some distances were as much as 500 yards multiple trips over steep grades, asphalt, and dry washed out clay. I was thinking at one point if I had gear drive it would have been absolutely awful. Needed to crawl at times just to keep from bouncing all four wheels off the ground. Also needed decent travel speed over distance. Like any tractor, part of the ride control is speed control. It wasn’t “smooth” but it was at least as good as the old 9N with R1’s (and a LOT more effective). If it still had 30psi in the rears it would have been bouncing around like a basketball rolling down a moguls course.

 

[Bark]

Last time I was having a really rough ride, my son
(who was visiting and doesn't know a thing about tractors)
asked me if maybe slowing down a little might help smooth things out.
He was right.
I would not have been taking the 2N over the same area nearly as fast as I was going in the L4701.

 

[jcwren]

Last time I was having a really rough ride, my son
(who was visiting and doesn't know a thing about tractors)
asked me if maybe slowing down a little might help smooth things out.
He was right.
I would not have been taking the 2N over the same area nearly as fast as I was going in the L4701.

I hear what you're saying, but speed is definitely not an issue in my case. We're talking low range, 1600 RPM, and the go pedal isn't firewalled. Basically, any bouncing at all causes the problem. Maybe I'm just not heavy enough to keep the seat firmly planted, and I need to eat more tacos and beer!

 

[Bark]

Maybe I'm just not heavy enough to keep the seat firmly planted, and I need to eat more tacos and beer!

Just noticed your problem. You got one of them experimental L5701 models (you punched the wrong key when you were filling out your profile). Dang but I like being perfect.

 

[jcwren]

Just noticed your problem. You got one of them experimental L5701 models (you punched the wrong key when you were filling out your profile). Dang but I like being perfect.

Good catch Thanks!