I did a bit of a search on here and didn't find anything, so maybe I'm the only one who has ever had this oh crap wtf just happened moment? I was backing up to connect my box blade in low range. Normally I will turn over my right shoulder while doing this as I've found it much easier to operate the position control on the 3PT this way. Well, as I was doing this, the tractor starts rolling forward. It took me a second or two to figure out what was going on. My first instinct (wrong instinct) was to press the reverse, but the tractor just kept gaining speed the other direction. Then, after another second or two, I remembered that my HST has a brake pedal and pressed it! The tractor stops. After I collect my thoughts and verify that I don't need to clean my underwear, I realize what happened. While I was turning to look behind, some part of me bumped / knocked the HST lever into neutral. If you are big like me, the HST lever if very close to the seat (especially when in low range). Has anyone else experienced this problem, or am I the only dumbass? I would very much like to relocate this lever. Does anyone know of any way to accomplish this? Maybe someone has already done it so I don't need to re-invent the wheel. I can send pictures if need be.
L4701 HST range lever
- Thread starter dochsml
- Start date
Maybe just back up to your implement in Medium range with throttle at idle? I've never had a problem. Now that you know it can get knocked into neutral, you'll be quicker to react next time...I don't think its a major issue to the point I'd attempt to relocate the transmission range shift lever.
Thanks for replying. You are definitely correct. I am as careful as can be now. I only like using low to have the more precise control of the machine. And, of course, I'm trying to run the thing in higher RPM's in general because of the DPF (like one minute of idling is going to matter). My main point besides wondering if anybody got creative to relocate this lever was to point out the complacency that I had gotten myself into (and some others from reading on this and other forums) about having an HST. I would bet that anyone with a gear transmission would laugh at the fact that the brake pedal exists rarely occurs to lots of HST owners. Except maybe when setting it into park.
I wouldn't worry about the idling. Up here where I live, its cold out and I plow snow with mine. I'll let it sit and idle for a half an hour each time I start it to warm it up, don't care.
My current L4060 shows you how full the DPF is on the dash display. My MX4800 doesn't do that, but I still didn't care. Once I was working out near a reservoir at night and needed light...let the MX sit and idle for 1.5 hours just for head lights.
My current L4060 shows you how full the DPF is on the dash display. My MX4800 doesn't do that, but I still didn't care. Once I was working out near a reservoir at night and needed light...let the MX sit and idle for 1.5 hours just for head lights.
Good to know. This is my second tractor. First one didn't have any of this newfangled stuff. Haven't even done my first regen yet (~20 hours). DPF gauge would have been nice, but I guess that's only on the Grands.
I myself am a big guy and had the same problem with the range lever on my 2501.I took a couple of adjustable wrenches and bent the lever ,above the lever guide,toward the fender to a 45 degree angle and problem was solved.I did this in the first hour of ownership.
I had a problem snagging the 3ph lever... finally bent it towards the fender to give me more room.
When I first got my L3560 it was difficult to shift the range selector, and it popped out of low and into neutral a couple of times (once when I was going up a berm - glad no one was behind me). I never bumped it, but it just did not engage well. After a short while it broke-in and got easier to shift, and low seemed to engage more solidly. I have never had a problem since. There does seem to be a break-in period for the range selector. Not sure if your model is a different animal, but my B2320hst acted similarly.
I usual like to keep my RPM's up also... to a point. However, there are times it just isn't safe, inefficient, practical, or is plane bad for the equipment. If you are trying to finesse the tractor movement (such as hooking up impliments) you should reduce RPM's if it is unsafe. Also, as already said, warm ups should be at lower RPM's for the tractors sake. Chances are your DPF will work good through your lifetime. No sense over thinking it.
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I usual like to keep my RPM's up also... to a point. However, there are times it just isn't safe, inefficient, practical, or is plane bad for the equipment. If you are trying to finesse the tractor movement (such as hooking up impliments) you should reduce RPM's if it is unsafe. Also, as already said, warm ups should be at lower RPM's for the tractors sake. Chances are your DPF will work good through your lifetime. No sense over thinking it.
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I've never done the bump into neutral thing but asa possible solution, what if you just shorten the lever slightly?
I was paying attention to it this weekend and it does seem to lock into M a lot better than L. Going from M to L, I have to sometimes feather the hydro pedal to get it to lock in. Even at that, it doesn't seem as firm and I don't get that warm and fuzzy feeling like when I put it in M. Could be that it is just all still to new like you said.
It's really only a problem when I'm hooking implements. If it becomes a problem beyond that, maybe I just need to lose another 20#
Ha!!! I have now had my L4701 for less than a week and have already done it. I absolutely do not remember hitting it but am pretty sure it was when I got back on it after looking a tree root.It's really only a problem when I'm hooking implements. If it becomes a problem beyond that, maybe I just need to lose another 20#
My L4060 has popped out of gear 3 times over the past 400h. I had thought I got used to the feel of the range shifter, and stopped relying on the range indicator on the dash.
While moving 14 yards of dirt a few weeks ago I was changing ranges 4 times per trip, it popped out with a full bucket going down a slight grade. For the rest of the job I kept it in medium and used the hi/lo as necessary.
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While moving 14 yards of dirt a few weeks ago I was changing ranges 4 times per trip, it popped out with a full bucket going down a slight grade. For the rest of the job I kept it in medium and used the hi/lo as necessary.
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first post thanks for this info my l2501 range lever was hindering snow removal went and two pipe wrenches and problem solved thanks
I was just saying on another thred about hard to shift into L and related my experience with my L3560HSTC jumping out of L into N and scrambling for the brake. I have had it at the dealer twice to have it checked out and they said the only thing they could do was to remove the transmission and it was very expensive to do. I have had this tractor for 6 years and it still does it, even when I am very careful to be sure it is solidly in L. I keep my foot on the brake pedal in case it is needed.
Bmyers
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Equipment
Grand L3560 with LA805 loader, EA 55" Wicked Grapple, SBX72 BB, LP 1272 mower
When I first got my L3560, the range selector was a bear. I struggled to get it from one selection to the next, the more I used it the easier it got. After having over 100 hours on the tractor now, it works much smoother.
As far as backing up, I also turn to the right, I just hit the seat swivel and turn to the right and I have not had any issues with bumping the range selector.
As far as backing up, I also turn to the right, I just hit the seat swivel and turn to the right and I have not had any issues with bumping the range selector.