L4400 mysteries

[ex-Sea Bee Mike]

Hello all, I just became the owner of a L4400D. HST. 4x4 Was told that it's a 2011 but didn't believe it since tractordata says they were made up until 2010. The decal with the serial number is damaged. The only other number I can find that looks like a serial number reads: L4400D86873. Makes me think it's a 2008 model. Anybody have any ideas?
Also, the tractor has 4260 hours on it but runs well. Body metal is all straight, just faded. Was told that it was used to tow nut bins in an orchard in Bakersfield. It had no three point hitch linkages and the PTO shows no wear at all. The three point hitch and the PTO work great. Has remote hydraulics but no FEL. Oddly it has two transmission filters, one on each side?
I know nothing about remote hydraulics and would like to use the tractor to run a wood splitter. It has connections that are new to me. Supposedly they are plug in connectors? I'm used to the old air-hose style. Can I simply disconnect the hoses and add new air-hose type connectors to the hoses and run the log splitter?
Any words of wisdom or help on these mysteries is appreciated !

 

[TheOldHokie]

Hello all, I just became the owner of a L4400D. HST. 4x4 Was told that it's a 2011 but didn't believe it since tractordata says they were made up until 2010. The decal with the serial number is damaged. The only other number I can find that looks like a serial number reads: L4400D86873. Makes me think it's a 2008 model. Anybody have any ideas?
Also, the tractor has 4260 hours on it but runs well. Body metal is all straight, just faded. Was told that it was used to tow nut bins in an orchard in Bakersfield. It had no three point hitch linkages and the PTO shows no wear at all. The three point hitch and the PTO work great. Has remote hydraulics but no FEL. Oddly it has two transmission filters, one on each side?
I know nothing about remote hydraulics and would like to use the tractor to run a wood splitter. It has connections that are new to me. Supposedly they are plug in connectors? I'm used to the old air-hose style. Can I simply disconnect the hoses and add new air-hose type connectors to the hoses and run the log splitter?
Any words of wisdom or help on these mysteries is appreciated !

I could guess but if you post a couple pictures of the connectors on the tractor we can ID what you have and give you a better answer on them.

Edit: I had a look at the operators manual. It dounds like you have OEM remotes which are in fact the type of coupler with which you are familiar. They are mounted in housings that allow you to make the connections using one hand. To connect you simply push the male tips in and they lock. Similarly you can disconnect by pulling out on the tips. This also provides emergency disconnection in the event of an implement breakaway. I recommend you use them as is - they are a superior design.

A log splitter has its own control valve and is best run off a direct hydrsulic tap rather than through the redundant ŕemote control valve on your rear outlets. The same type of connection used for a loader or backhoe.

Dan

 

[ex-Sea Bee Mike]

I could guess but if you post a couple pictures of the connectors on the tractor we can ID what you have and give you a better answer on them.

Edit: I had a look at the operators manual. It dounds like you have OEM remotes which are in fact the type of coupler with which you are familiar. They are mounted in housings that allow you to make the connections using one hand. To connect you simply push the male tips in and they lock. Similarly you can disconnect by pulling out on the tips. This also provides emergency disconnection in the event of an implement breakaway. I recommend you use them as is - they are a superior design.

A log splitter has its own control valve and is best run off a direct hydrsulic tap rather than through the redundant ŕemote control valve on your rear outlets. The same type of connection used for a loader or backhoe.

Dan

Thanks for the reply Dan. I did do a little more research after I read your response and I understand it a little more now. The rear remote does have certain uses and might come in handy someday. Don't want to jeopardize the control unit by trying to have a continuos flow on the rear remote controls. I do plan on running the log splitter off of the direct hydraulic tap. Thanks again! MIke

 

[aaluck]

Hello all, I just became the owner of a L4400D. HST. 4x4

I have the exact same tractor. This will tell you when the engine was made.

Kubota Engine Serial Number ID | Kubota Engine America

Find all of the information you need to correctly identify your Kubota engine.Find all of the information you need to correctly identify your Kubota engine.

www.kubotaengine.com

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Hello all, I just became the owner of a L4400D. HST. 4x4 Was told that it's a 2011 but didn't believe it since tractordata says they were made up until 2010. The decal with the serial number is damaged. The only other number I can find that looks like a serial number reads: L4400D86873. Makes me think it's a 2008 model. Anybody have any ideas?

L4400D86873 is the tractors serial number.
Tractor age is the point at when it was sold not when it was made.
It really doesn't matter, the hours are very high but with light use it's probably going to last a while.

If the year is burning at you, take the serial number to a dealer and ask when it was sold.
50/50 chance of getting an answer.

 

[ex-Sea Bee Mike]

L4400D86873 is the tractors serial number.
Tractor age is the point at when it was sold not when it was made.
It really doesn't matter, the hours are very high but with light use it's probably going to last a while.

If the year is burning at you, take the serial number to a dealer and ask when it was sold.
50/50 chance of getting an answer.

Thanks Wolfman. You're right, the year doesn't really matter much. It does have a lot of hours but if the story I got with it is true, I feel that it wasn't abused. No FEL, no PTO use, and no three point hitch makes me think it was just shuttling nut bins during harvest. I don't plan on using it for much more that brush hog mowing. Sure hoping that it becomes a testament to Kubota toughness!

 

[ex-Sea Bee Mike]

I have the exact same tractor. This will tell you when the engine was made.

Kubota Engine Serial Number ID | Kubota Engine America

Find all of the information you need to correctly identify your Kubota engine.Find all of the information you need to correctly identify your Kubota engine.

www.kubotaengine.com

Thanks for the reply aaluck. Since you have the same tractor, if you have any words of wisdom to share or cool stories of your tractor I'd like to hear them!
I'm anxiously waiting for this wintery wet weather we're having to be over so I can get out and use the tractor. Thanks Mike

 

[aaluck]

Thanks for the reply aaluck. Since you have the same tractor, if you have any words of wisdom to share or cool stories of your tractor I'd like to hear them!
I'm anxiously waiting for this wintery wet weather we're having to be over so I can get out and use the tractor. Thanks Mike

Nothing really. It is a very good reliable tractor....so far. Got it with about 500 hours 3 years ago. Only repair thus far was a seal in the front right 4WD that I had to get replaced. Make sure and check ALL of the fluids AND the lug nuts. Grease everything.

 

[ex-Sea Bee Mike]

I could guess but if you post a couple pictures of the connectors on the tractor we can ID what you have and give you a better answer on them.

Edit: I had a look at the operators manual. It dounds like you have OEM remotes which are in fact the type of coupler with which you are familiar. They are mounted in housings that allow you to make the connections using one hand. To connect you simply push the male tips in and they lock. Similarly you can disconnect by pulling out on the tips. This also provides emergency disconnection in the event of an implement breakaway. I recommend you use them as is - they are a superior design.

A log splitter has its own control valve and is best run off a direct hydrsulic tap rather than through the redundant ŕemote control valve on your rear outlets. The same type of connection used for a loader or backhoe.

Dan

Hello Dan, Thanks again for the reply on the remote hydraulics. I have another theoretical question concerning them. I understand that they are for remote use such as cylinders on discs, mowers etc. Could the controls also be used to operate a front end loader that will only be used intermitantly? The goal would be to use these controls rather than add a whole new set on the front hydraulic block. Money saving option? Since there are two connections...one for up and down, one for bucket? I know it sound funky but could it work in a pinch? Thanks!

 

[TheOldHokie]

Hello Dan, Thanks again for the reply on the remote hydraulics. I have another theoretical question concerning them. I understand that they are for remote use such as cylinders on discs, mowers etc. Could the controls also be used to operate a front end loader that will only be used intermitantly? The goal would be to use these controls rather than add a whole new set on the front hydraulic block. Money saving option? Since there are two connections...one for up and down, one for bucket? I know it sound funky but could it work in a pinch? Thanks!

Short answer is yes and in fact it was not uncommon older (50s and 60s) tractors.

That said a new joystiick loader valve is around $250 and will make things a lot neater and give you far better operator conyrol.

Dan

 

[ex-Sea Bee Mike]

Short answer is yes and in fact it was not uncommon older (50s and 60s) tractors.

That said a new joystiick loader valve is around $250 and will make things a lot neater and give you far better operator conyrol.

Dan

Thanks for the quick reply! I was thinking that they would work. I'm hoping to add a front end loader on my L4400 mostly for use of carrying things around on the farm. Maybe a little use for material moving gravel work etc. Trying to be frugal but maybe as the saying goes "penny wise, dollar foolish" probably will be happier with the joystick. Besides, I just love having things in the way of jumping on and off the tractor!
Thanks again! Mike

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks for the quick reply! I was thinking that they would work. I'm hoping to add a front end loader on my L4400 mostly for use of carrying things around on the farm. Maybe a little use for material moving gravel work etc. Trying to be frugal but maybe as the saying goes "penny wise, dollar foolish" probably will be happier with the joystick. Besides, I just love having things in the way of jumping on and off the tractor!
Thanks again! Mike

I hear you loud and clear on joysticks obstructing access to the platform. Theres no rule that says you have to mount them there. Mounted vertically along the right side of the seat can eliminate or minimize that concern.

Dan

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If you can find a LA703 loader that fits your L4400 it will have the Joystick valve as part of the loader.
You won't need to add it separately.

 

[ex-Sea Bee Mike]

If you can find a LA703 loader that fits your L4400 it will have the Joystick valve as part of the loader.
You won't need to add it separately.

If you can find a LA703 loader that fits your L4400 it will have the Joystick valve as part of the loader.
You won't need to add it separately.

Hello all, Another rainy day in Oregon........ I'm writing this question with a crappy feeling in my gut. Tractor was spitting radiator fluid so I went out to do a cold start this morning with radiator cap off. Immediately upon the engine starting, fluid started slurping out of the radiator with what looked like a little smoke? Let me guess.....cracked head? Read somewhere that its rarely a gasket. It's never ran hot for the short time I've had it but I've never really had a chance to really work the tractor. I did a little mowing with it and it seemed OK. Darn thing behaved OK when I bought it. Thought I looked over everything OK. Even had the seller put a brush hog on it to give it a little load. I'm hoping someone has some good news for me. If not it looks like I get to get intimate with the tractor. Thanks...Mike

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes all signs are pointing to either a blow head gasket (rare) or a cracked head.
Give a shout if you don't have a copy of the WSM (aka service manual) as I can help you out.

 

[TheOldHokie]

⁰

Hello all, Another rainy day in Oregon........ I'm writing this question with a crappy feeling in my gut. Tractor was spitting radiator fluid so I went out to do a cold start this morning with radiator cap off. Immediately upon the engine starting, fluid started slurping out of the radiator with what looked like a little smoke? Let me guess.....cracked head? Read somewhere that its rarely a gasket. It's never ran hot for the short time I've had it but I've never really had a chance to really work the tractor. I did a little mowing with it and it seemed OK. Darn thing behaved OK when I bought it. Thought I looked over everything OK. Even had the seller put a brush hog on it to give it a little load. I'm hoping someone has some good news for me. If not it looks like I get to get intimate with the tractor. Thanks...Mike

Pressure test that cooling system before jumping in.

Dan

 

[ex-Sea Bee Mike]

Yes all signs are pointing to either a blow head gasket (rare) or a cracked head.
Give a shout if you don't have a copy of the WSM (aka service manual) as I can help you out.

Hey thanks for getting back to me. I'll take you up on that offer for a WSM.
Also, should I go to Kubota for this part or can I trust Country Sales and Service or eBay? If I'm going to all the trouble of swapping heads I wanna do it right. I'm naively thinking its a straight forward job.....take it a step at a time......

 

[fried1765]

Hey thanks for getting back to me. I'll take you up on that offer for a WSM.
Also, should I go to Kubota for this part or can I trust Country Sales and Service or eBay? If I'm going to all the trouble of swapping heads I wanna do it right. I'm naively thinking its a straight forward job.....take it a step at a time......

NOTHING is beyond the capabilities of a Navy man!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Hey thanks for getting back to me. I'll take you up on that offer for a WSM.
Also, should I go to Kubota for this part or can I trust Country Sales and Service or eBay? If I'm going to all the trouble of swapping heads I wanna do it right. I'm naively thinking its a straight forward job.....take it a step at a time......

Check your PM's (envelope top right)

When you get it apart and see if it is cracked send me a PM and I'll find you a good head, good sellers and supplies change day to day!

I always use a Kubota OEM head gasket and O-ring if needed!

 

[ex-Sea Bee Mike]

Good morning all. Still trying to figure out the coolant blow-out problem. Got a hold of a hydrocarbon tester and ran the test 4 times with no change in color on the test fluid. Thought maybe the fluid was bad so I took a few whiffs off the exhaust and the fluid changed color quickly. Refilled it and Plugged the tester into the radiator and didn't even have to pump since the bubble flow was steady. Waited more than the required minute and no color change. I'm wondering if exhaust bubbling through coolant loses the hydrocarbons and comes out as just air? Maybe this test isn't as definitive as I think it's supposed to be. Is there any other kind of litmus test?
A few observations:
Starts right up with no white smoke
idles smoothly
no coolant in the oil
nearly new radiator
temp gauge rises to almost H and then drops dramatically as thermostat opens
Continues to run at warm, but still continues to blow air out of the overflow
Plugged overflow pipe into tester and no color change

Kubota parts store in Roseburg OR tells me that there are three head gaskets listed for the engine. ($165) Told me that there are notches on the gasket that indicate which thickness of gasket to use.

I'm trying to hold off of removing the head if I don't have to. Seems like every time I do a job like that there are side issues such as broken studs , stripped nuts etc. Not to mention knuckle skin... But its looking more and more like I'm gonna have to do it after all. Can't seem to think of any other way that a constant flow of air can get into a cooling system.

Any comments or ideas, tips are welcome!!! Thanks. Mike