L4310 alternator

[Thechief]

I had the alternator checked and it is fine. battery is not charging. Is there a regulator to check or is it internel
to the alternator. Alt only has 2 wires and the main large wire. PLS let me know how to check, I am lost here.

 

[Shadetree605]

I had the alternator checked and it is fine. battery is not charging. Is there a regulator to check or is it internel
to the alternator. Alt only has 2 wires and the main large wire. PLS let me know how to check, I am lost here.

i have not looked your model up , but the easy way to check to see if the battery is charging, crank it up, use a multimeter touching the neg and pos terminals on battery, with the rpms up, the tester should show at least 12 or more volts going back into the battery. if for some reason its not ?, then i would say the reg/rec is bad. you can go to messicks ( kubota dealer ) search for your model, scroll down the parts list..and see if you see a reg/rec in the list in the electronics section ?.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I had the alternator checked and it is fine. battery is not charging. Is there a regulator to check or is it internel
to the alternator. Alt only has 2 wires and the main large wire. PLS let me know how to check, I am lost here.

There is a WorkShop Manual at Kubotabooks.
Here's a little part of it.

Looks like the regulator is internal to the alternator, so it should have checked out with the alternator. Check the fuse and wiring, especially the ground if it has a separate wire.

 

[DustyRusty]

The first thing to do is to remove the battery and put it on a charger and fully charge it. Then take it to your local auto parts store and have them test the batteries output in CCA (cold cranking amps). They will be able to determine if the battery is sound or has an internal short. More often than not, the battery is the problem, since you can't charge a battery with a defective cell. If the battery will crank over the engine, then you don't need to charge it first, but it still should be tested. The average battery will last about 5 years if it is a quality battery, however, some people have had their tractor battery last as long as 10 years, however, that is the exception.

 

[6869704x4]

If you have a voltmeter try to hook it up so you can see the volts while cranking. If the volts drops off it's your battery. Classic sign of a dead cell.

 

[Thechief]

Thank you all for your replies.
I have checked the battery and replaced it. it was good, but old.
I used a multi meter while cranking and there was no change. While running the voltage at the battery stayed the same just under 12 volts.
I checked the fuses in the fuse box (not labeled at all) and they are ok I don't know where the slow blow fuse is, the BATTERY light is always on .
The large terminal on the altenator has battery voltage.
I will check the ground on the alternator.
Keep the ideas coming, I thank you again for your help.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

See if your getting power in on IG (Small Red / blue wire) that is the trigger wire.
WR is the charge light, and if it's on all the time your not triggering the alternator to charge or the alternator is damaged.

 

[Pawnee]

If the alternator is charging the battery you will see about 14V at the battery, 12V is too low.

 

[fried1765]

The first thing to do is to remove the battery and put it on a charger and fully charge it. Then take it to your local auto parts store and have them test the batteries output in CCA (cold cranking amps). They will be able to determine if the battery is sound or has an internal short. More often than not, the battery is the problem, since you can't charge a battery with a defective cell. If the battery will crank over the engine, then you don't need to charge it first, but it still should be tested. The average battery will last about 5 years if it is a quality battery, however, some people have had their tractor battery last as long as 10 years, however, that is the exception.

Anyone can buy an inexpensive 100A carbon pile battery load tester on Amazon, or elsewhere, for less than $35.
It is a handy tool to have available, if you own cars, tractors, or boats. (airplanes too)
Likely will last a lifetime, and there will be no need to ever remove batteries...unless/until they have failed.

(I own a 500A battery load tester, but have some large 12V golf cart batteries.)

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Anyone can buy an inexpensive 100A carbon pile battery load tester on Amazon, or elsewhere, for less than $35.
It is a handy tool to have available, if you own cars, tractors, or boats. (airplanes too)
Likely will last a lifetime, and there will be no need to ever remove batteries...unless/until they have failed.

(I own a 500A battery load tester, but have some large 12V golf cart batteries.)

There are electronic ones for much cheaper that give great results too.

 

[Grandad4]

Thank you all for your replies.
I have checked the battery and replaced it. it was good, but old.
I used a multi meter while cranking and there was no change. While running the voltage at the battery stayed the same just under 12 volts.
I checked the fuses in the fuse box (not labeled at all) and they are ok I don't know where the slow blow fuse is, the BATTERY light is always on .
The large terminal on the altenator has battery voltage.
I will check the ground on the alternator.
Keep the ideas coming, I thank you again for your help.

Thank you all for your replies.
I have checked the battery and replaced it. it was good, but old.
I used a multi meter while cranking and there was no change. While running the voltage at the battery stayed the same just under 12 volts.
I checked the fuses in the fuse box (not labeled at all) and they are ok I don't know where the slow blow fuse is, the BATTERY light is always on .
The large terminal on the altenator has battery voltage.
I will check the ground on the alternator.
Keep the ideas coming, I thank you again for your help.

On my L4610 (essentially the same tractor as yours), there was a 30A master fuse in the wiring harness on the left side, beneath the alternator. Since you said the starter does crank on yours, it's probably not that fuse, but worth checking anyways.

 

[Vahunter]

Good morning....same issues here on my L4310. I've had constant battery/charging issues for the past 2-3 years. I've decided to replace the battery leads, although they look OK but I'm thinking maybe they may have some internal corrosion. The battery is new and alternator checks out. Quick question for you folks, where the heck does the negative battery lead attach to the frame? I've yet to find the end of it but wonder if that's not the problem.

 

[Russell King]

Good morning....same issues here on my L4310. I've had constant battery/charging issues for the past 2-3 years. I've decided to replace the battery leads, although they look OK but I'm thinking maybe they may have some internal corrosion. The battery is new and alternator checks out. Quick question for you folks, where the heck does the negative battery lead attach to the frame? I've yet to find the end of it but wonder if that's not the problem.

I can only suggest that you look into the illustrated parts list and see if you can find the location of the cable ends.

Messicks and Kubota USA both have the illustrated diagrams

 

[tbk5]

The negative cabble connects to the frame/front pillar under the battery support skirt.

 

[Thechief]

On my L4610 (essentially the same tractor as yours), there was a 30A master fuse in the wiring harness on the left side, beneath the alternator. Since you said the starter does crank on yours, it's probably not that fuse, but worth checking anyways.

Thanks I will check.

 

[Thechief]

See if your getting power in on IG (Small Red / blue wire) that is the trigger wire.
WR is the charge light, and if it's on all the time your not triggering the alternator to charge or the alternator is damaged.

thank you, I will check this. I have not done it yet.

 

[Thechief]

Thanks I will check.

I have not checked yet (to cold in the south) but, if there is no voltage to the trigger wire, can I use a jumper cable from a hot wire to the trigger wire to activate the alterntor?

 

[Thechief]

I can only suggest that you look into the illustrated parts list and see if you can find the location of the cable ends.

Messicks and Kubota USA both have the illustrated diagrams

I believe that if the battery ground is not good, the tractor will not crank or do anything else.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

(to cold in the south) but, if there is no voltage to the trigger wire, can I use a jumper cable from a hot wire to the trigger wire to activate the alterntor?

I agree, but those guys to our north are a little punchy this time of year and start threatening to send us snow, so be careful.

Yeah, that's just a switched B+.

 

[Thechief]

See if your getting power in on IG (Small Red / blue wire) that is the trigger wire.
WR is the charge light, and if it's on all the time your not triggering the alternator to charge or the alternator is damaged.

I checked and with the key on and socket unpluged, I have power at both of the small wires. I may have done the test incorretly but that is what I got. Is that any help?