Looking for some help!! Tractor cranks but won't start. I've got fuel up to the injector pump but not at the injectors. I don't really understand what happens inside the ignition pump so I'm stuck at this pont in troubleshooting and so i'm calling out to you experts to help walk me through the process and get this thing firing.
L3830 fuel supply issues
- Thread starter Mbatt
- Start date
Mbatt, welcome to the forum. As mentioned be sure you have fuel that is winter treated so it will flow!
Why do you think it won't start? Has it been started recently? How do you know there is fuel to the IP?
If you do have fuel without air at the injection pump this will get you to a start position.
I am not familiar with your tractor specifically, so if you see something obviously different speak up.
Have your battery fully charged. Loosen the nuts at the top of the three injectors a couple of turns. You don't need to completely remove them. Have you throttle on full advanced. Turn engine over with started in 15-20 second burst. Wait 30 seconds and repeat. Do this process 4-5 times. You'll soon see fuel dribbling out of the lines. When you notice only fuel, no air bubbles, from one line tighten it back down. Do the same for the remaining two lines.
When you have completed this process the engine should start. May run rough for a minute or two, but will clear up.
Why do you think it won't start? Has it been started recently? How do you know there is fuel to the IP?
If you do have fuel without air at the injection pump this will get you to a start position.
I am not familiar with your tractor specifically, so if you see something obviously different speak up.
Have your battery fully charged. Loosen the nuts at the top of the three injectors a couple of turns. You don't need to completely remove them. Have you throttle on full advanced. Turn engine over with started in 15-20 second burst. Wait 30 seconds and repeat. Do this process 4-5 times. You'll soon see fuel dribbling out of the lines. When you notice only fuel, no air bubbles, from one line tighten it back down. Do the same for the remaining two lines.
When you have completed this process the engine should start. May run rough for a minute or two, but will clear up.
Russell King
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Three things needed=fuel, air compression.
Check that your air intake is clear and the filter is clean(ish)
Check fuel per previous comments
Also in your environment you may need some heat to help start, are you using the glow plugs? May be helpful to heat the area where stored if that is possible.
It's 80 F in Texas today so we don't worry about temperatures that much!
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Check that your air intake is clear and the filter is clean(ish)
Check fuel per previous comments
Also in your environment you may need some heat to help start, are you using the glow plugs? May be helpful to heat the area where stored if that is possible.
It's 80 F in Texas today so we don't worry about temperatures that much!
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
If your getting fuel to the injection pump but not out of it, you have an issue with the stop solenoid or stop solenoid relay.
I PM'ed you a link to download the WSM for your tractor, look on page 539 which is 9-S40, it will go through what to test for.
I PM'ed you a link to download the WSM for your tractor, look on page 539 which is 9-S40, it will go through what to test for.
Last edited:
whitetiger
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Does the fuel shut off solenoid click when key is switched to the On position? If not check your fuses and safety switches.
Ok, I appreciate everybody's response so far. Here's where I'm at with figuring this out. When you turn the key to the right the glow plug comes on for five seconds you hear a click in about five seconds later you hear another click. I pulled the fuel shut off solenoid off and when I did that and crank it over, fuel started coming out of the lines that I crack by the injectors. So it appears as if the solenoid is only energized for a few seconds and then closes off the fuel. So now I suspect the OPC relay? I read that you can bypass the OPC relay under the dash by putting a jumper wire between the red wire and the red and white wire? My assumption is that if you bypass the OPC relay as described and fuel flows than that indicates a bad OPC relay? Do you folks agree with that assessment?
One more point. When I took the shut off solenoid off and disconnected the two prong wire harness I then attempted to test it. Not sure if I was doing this correctly but I connected one of the leads to the - terminal of the battery and the other lead to. The positive terminal of the battery. When I did this I got nothing. Then I tried connecting one of the leads to the positive of the battery and then connected the metal portion of the Solenoid to the negative and when I did this it cycled on and off rapidly and continuously. I'm assuming the Solenoid is OK and it's something upstream which is causing it to retract shortly after turning the key to the right. I do understand that these solenoids have to coils one to retract when you first turn the key and then when you let the key off and it's running there's another coil that holds it in a retracted position until you turn the key completely off . Is that correct?
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Yes I did down load and thank you for that. Little confused on how to bench test relay. the way It's worded s a little confusing. Are they saying put 12v to leads 3 and 4 at the same time and then ck for continuity between terminals 3and4?
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Also, can you describe which relay under the dash is the shut off relay or OPC? I saw in the manual where the glow plug relay was but not sure which one is the shut off relay? Never came across a diagram. Keep in mind that I Had to flip through 612 pages on my I phone.
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