L3800 Steering Wheel Reinstall

[cc9016]

I just replaced a broken tachometer cable and everything well smooth except when I got to replacing the steering wheel. I know it need to be seated on the steering shaft but what is the trick to do so? I have replaced the rubber bushing correctly and when I go to tighten and seat the wheel it just wont seat down tightly. I was even using a 18" breaker bar on the wheel nut and no dice. It is very sloppy and not like it was prior to removal. What is the trick or have done something incorrectly?
CC9016

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I just replaced a broken tachometer cable and everything well smooth except when I got to replacing the steering wheel. I know it need to be seated on the steering shaft but what is the trick to do so? I have replaced the rubber bushing correctly and when I go to tighten and seat the wheel it just wont seat down tightly. I was even using a 18" breaker bar on the wheel nut and no dice. It is very sloppy and not like it was prior to removal. What is the trick or have done something incorrectly?
CC9016

I'm not sure if this is true or not on this model, but some of the shafts are keyed, they will have one spline missing on them so they will only go on one way, helps keep the a steering wheel alignment correct.


This does not apply to tractors with Hydrostatic steering because the steering wheel will not stay in alinement to the wheels.

 

[cc9016]

Nope not he case (wish it was that easy). nothing keyed on the shaft but it is a well splined top shaft which is well aliened with the same on the steering wheel female receiver
that is molded into the SW.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You're going to have to post some pictures of what your running into so maybe we can figure out what you have going on.

 

[cc9016]

Going to remove the steering wheel again and try heating the wheel at 100 degrees in the oven. Then hoping it will expand enough to seat properly without forcing it.

 

[RCW]

Smaller tractor, but my BX SW came clean off on a steep bank last summer.

Retaining nut had come off and was rattling around in the hub cover.

No slot or key, but it did take a couple tries to get it slid back on the shaft fully. It was hot at the time, so maybe heating will help. Just be careful to not bugger-up the SW splines.

Maybe a little Teflon or other dry lube spray first?

 

[200mph]

Try to get as much temperature differential between the interference parts as possible. Maybe the bushing/shaft can be cooled and wheel heated.

Also keep in mind the thermal conductivity of most plastics is relatively low, so it will take some time to reach temperature equilibrium.

It would be nice to ID the steering wheel material, so you could determine the temperature threshold and thus increase the temperature differential (increase expansion).

Hope you have success.

 

[Orange man]

You should not have to heat anything, I have had the wheel off my l3200 and just slides on the splines. Are you using a lock washer under the nut?

 

[RCW]

Are you using a lock washer under the nut?

I took a quick look at the Parts Diagram - there's a bushing under the wheel and a lock washer on top before the nut goes on.

https://apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/

 

[cc9016]

Yes. I'm reassembling the wheel assembly exactly the way it came off the steering column.
cc9016

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You 100% should not have to heat or cool anything to put it back together, you also should not have to force it at all.

If it's not going on easily, something is not aligned properly.

 

[gkk2001]

I had my wheel off twice within the past couple weeks. Each time it went on easily. I had the front tires facing forward by eye estimation. Then put wheel, on the steering shaft insureing the splines mesh. Put nut on and tightened with some authority but not over doing it. Did not use a torque wrench, maybe should have. But center cap on wheel is easy enough to remove if there is any need to adjust It later.
I really do not understand why you are having this issue unless the splines are messed up somehow. I would check that very thoroughly.

 

[cc9016]

Thank you gkk. I have also removed the steering several times and just as you said it went back on easily. Everything aligned and no torque wrench was necessary everything seated to all other parts of the steering wheel shaft and the steering column. BUT I still got SLOP in the steering column. This time I removed the wheel again and placed 3, 5/8" X 3/32" bushings to the steering shaft and problem solved. All is now good just don't know why......

 

[gkk2001]

Thank you gkk. I have also removed the steering several times and just as you said it went back on easily. Everything aligned and no torque wrench was necessary everything seated to all other parts of the steering wheel shaft and the steering column. BUT I still got SLOP in the steering column. This time I removed the wheel again and placed 3, 5/8" X 3/32" bushings to the steering shaft and problem solved. All is now good just don't know why......

If you look at an exploded parts diagram of the steering wheel and column, it shows a spring washer under the Nut. I am 99% confident saying my wheel did not have that washer first time I removed the wheel. I am surprised but it appears with your result, there is variance in these columns on the need for that washer, in your case spacers that took up the sloop. That is the only conclusion I can come up with. One would think these parts all came from the same mold and are identical.
I am glad you have your issue solved and passed on good info to the Kubota diy community.

 

[Jimmy3800]

I don’t know about the reinstall yet cable is on Oder but the wheel removal was tough puller was tearing at the wheel so I redone my harbor freight puller there are three holes inside center of wheel I welded three bolts to puller jaws and still had to use impact