L3800 Rotary Cutter? BH15 or RCR1860?
- Thread starter tedtf
- Start date
Caroni 5' Flail Mower . . and don't look back . . better cut, I use mine for finish cutting and light brush hogging up to 1" - 1 1/2 " . . a little more maintenance but worth it. Uses considerably less HP than a rotary cutter . . your L3800 will thank you for it . .
http://www.agrisupply.com/caroni-flail-mower/p/30837/
http://www.agrisupply.com/caroni-flail-mower/p/30837/
I'll be honest, I'm partial to Bushhog brand because that's mostly what I've used all my life and 2 out of 3 I own now. I don't think you'll go wrong with either brand and both have good points.
I guess what I want to know is what kind cutting are you planning to do?
Both cutters are built about the same in a lot of ways but the Bushhog has 4" blades compared to the 3" on the LP. If you have ruff stuff to cut the heavier blades may be an advantage.
If you plan to cut grass and small brush the blade size may not be a factor but the blade tip speed will make a huge difference. LP wins that with a 2000 fpm higher tip speed which will give you a much cleaner cut.
That said, 14k bts will cut fine and unless you just happen to get a lemon a Bushhog will be hard to beat. Not knowing you exact purpose for the cutter. I would suggest the Bushhog brand for no other reason that they have always been good to me. Not only their product but the service as well.
That's my $.02
I guess what I want to know is what kind cutting are you planning to do?
Both cutters are built about the same in a lot of ways but the Bushhog has 4" blades compared to the 3" on the LP. If you have ruff stuff to cut the heavier blades may be an advantage.
If you plan to cut grass and small brush the blade size may not be a factor but the blade tip speed will make a huge difference. LP wins that with a 2000 fpm higher tip speed which will give you a much cleaner cut.
That said, 14k bts will cut fine and unless you just happen to get a lemon a Bushhog will be hard to beat. Not knowing you exact purpose for the cutter. I would suggest the Bushhog brand for no other reason that they have always been good to me. Not only their product but the service as well.
That's my $.02
PHPaul
Well-known member
Equipment
B2650, Pronovost snow blower, Landpride rotary mower, Howard tiller, box blade
Can't speak to Bush Hog brand, but I replaced a worn out Woods M5 with an RCR1860 and I've been very happy with it. MUCH heavier built than the ol' Woods.
I have the RCR1860 and have really abused it and it has held up fairly well. I really like the slip clutch gearbox and it is made to work with either a quick hitch or normal hookup.
TripleR
Active member
Equipment
BX2200, BX2660, L5740 HSTC, M8540HDC and some other tractors and equipment
Pretty much along the lines of Bulldog, but my preference is Land Pride or Woods as that's what I know and use. Bush Hog and Woods dealerships are scarce in my area and I haven't seen a Bush Hog brand cutter in use in years.
The BH15s that I've seen have a closed back and I prefer an open back with chain guards as I get a better cut, less clogging.
I'm sure either would be fine, never heard any complaints on either.
The BH15s that I've seen have a closed back and I prefer an open back with chain guards as I get a better cut, less clogging.
I'm sure either would be fine, never heard any complaints on either.
Go with whichever is heavier. I put a LP2060 on my L3800. The L3800 is almost a between size tractor and I was on the fence between a 72" medium duty or a 60" heavy duty. In the end, I opted for the heavier mower.
The one thing I don't care for on the LP 2060 is the tail wheel height adjustment. It has it's pro's and con's. I don't like that I have to use a wrench to pull a bolt out to adjust height, I'd rather just have to pull a pin. I'm picky that way.
The one thing I don't care for on the LP 2060 is the tail wheel height adjustment. It has it's pro's and con's. I don't like that I have to use a wrench to pull a bolt out to adjust height, I'd rather just have to pull a pin. I'm picky that way.
I did a lot of looking and comparing. Ended up with the Land Pride, as it had better welds, was sturdier, and greater capacity for just a slight bit more money.
That's no joke either. Flail mowers and rocks don't mix well.More numerous and smaller sparks and shrapnel flying up at you...
Bulldog, you mention " Flail mowers and rocks don't mix well."
And Diydave says, "More numerous and smaller sparks and shrapnel flying up at you."
I don't know of any mower that does very well with rocks.
A flair mower is more forgiving because it has several cutting edges, smaller in size and less momentum then a mower slinging the blades horizontal to the ground.
The flail mower throws the cuttings out the back. Much less change of any object being thrown by the blades. That's why flail mower are used by city, county, state on roadsides.
If you have too many rocks to safely mow, choices seem to be remove rocks, use area for grazing, make a rock garden!
And Diydave says, "More numerous and smaller sparks and shrapnel flying up at you."
I don't know of any mower that does very well with rocks.
A flair mower is more forgiving because it has several cutting edges, smaller in size and less momentum then a mower slinging the blades horizontal to the ground.
The flail mower throws the cuttings out the back. Much less change of any object being thrown by the blades. That's why flail mower are used by city, county, state on roadsides.
If you have too many rocks to safely mow, choices seem to be remove rocks, use area for grazing, make a rock garden!
thedevilyoulove
Member
Equipment
L3901 HST with LA525 FEL, Land Pride RCF2572, pallet forks, 3 pt carry all
I have a Land Pride RCF 2572 that my L3901 runs the heck out of. It barely knows the thing is back there.
My only complaint about the mower is that the nuts holding the blades on where absurdly tight when I removed them for sharpening, but I understand that's a common complaint on rotary cutters. The nuts were factory torqued to 450 foot pounds!
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24139
My only complaint about the mower is that the nuts holding the blades on where absurdly tight when I removed them for sharpening, but I understand that's a common complaint on rotary cutters. The nuts were factory torqued to 450 foot pounds!
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24139
D2Cat, you're right. Rocks are bad on any mower so what I said is unfair to apply it just to flails.
Mine can be reversed so it can throw crap from either end. One way works better with grass and the other does better with brush.
Mine can be reversed so it can throw crap from either end. One way works better with grass and the other does better with brush.
Yeah I just wanted to know how well it works. My neighbor hit a cinder block with his bush hog a few years ago. I would assume an object like that couldnt enter the flail mower since it doesn't have a large opening?
I have a field that I know in a few years I will probably need to take over the cutting duties. So am researching what would be the best option.
I have a field that I know in a few years I will probably need to take over the cutting duties. So am researching what would be the best option.
I like my flail but it's a lot of work to keep it cutting good. Maybe I need different blades but I'm limited to what will work because my rotor is reversible.
What D2cat said.Bulldog, you mention " Flail mowers and rocks don't mix well."
And Diydave says, "More numerous and smaller sparks and shrapnel flying up at you."
I don't know of any mower that does very well with rocks.
A flair mower is more forgiving because it has several cutting edges, smaller in size and less momentum then a mower slinging the blades horizontal to the ground.
The flail mower throws the cuttings out the back. Much less change of any object being thrown by the blades. That's why flail mower are used by city, county, state on roadsides.
If you have too many rocks to safely mow, choices seem to be remove rocks, use area for grazing, make a rock garden!
I have been hit by debris thrown out from under a rotary cutter. My dad had a piece of wood puncture the rear of this left Bicep that had to be surgically removed. I would never run a rotary cutter without an expanded metal shield between me and the cutter. NEVER have had such issues with a flail mower. Have either of you ever run one? Much safer, better cut, lower PTO HP requirement. Your argument about rocks and stumps are moot because whether I was running a rotary cutter OR flail mower I would make sure that they were all cleared out prior to mowing. Just common sense good practice.
If you do the research you will find that flail mowers are the norm in ROW, especially Europe where they have much stricter noise and safety regulations. In fact . . I would bet you did not know that rotary cutters (Brush Hogs etc.) are a North American phenomenon, not known in ROW . .
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Hmm, can't imagine why . . I sharpen my blades once a year and mig weld up the shackles that are excessively worn . . . . I maintain about 10 acres with it.
This is what I am working with . . .
