Just did my first engine oil change, removed both drain plugs and changed filter. Put in 7.5 qts of new oil as stated in manual. Started up and no leaks. Pulled dipstick and looks overfull? Oil level is above the highest hole in dipstick, any ideas???
L3800 oil change
- Thread starter budpat105
- Start date
I thought it only took 6 quarts of oil? Either way, I would drain some out and get it so the oil is at least back to the top mark on the dipstick.
RobD70
New member
Equipment
Kubota L3800 HST, Land Pride PR1672 Power Rake, Land Pride BB2572 Box Scraper
I did the same thing with mine. But I also didnt seem to get that much out of it when draining the oil either. I chalked that up to it not being as level as it should of been. I drained some out til it was jsut at the full spot. My book says 7.5 quarts for the L3800. 6.0 quarts for the L3200.
Due to my 41+ years of marine engine experience, where the installed angle of the engine can vary the oil level, and hence the amount of oil needed to reach the full mark on the dipstick, on anything I own I just fill it to the full mark, it takes what it takes and so be it.
That said, it should be easier on these applications as the installed angle just does not vary that much, so the book should be closer to actual oil required, but beware that there is a total oil capacity (new engine), and oil required when changing (service oil change), IE not all the old oil drains on a oil change, but on a new, unfilled engine it generally takes a bit more to fill those spots that do not drain when changing the oil. FYI - It is worse to run over full than slightly under full.
The reason why overfilling is bad, is that if the oil level gets too close to the crankshaft, the oil will be whipped into a aerated mess, which reduces the lubrication qualities, and normally the camshaft lobes and lifter bases take it in the shorts. Of course roller cams and lifters really reduce this likelihood, but old school flat tappet cams and lifters are highly affected by this.
David
That said, it should be easier on these applications as the installed angle just does not vary that much, so the book should be closer to actual oil required, but beware that there is a total oil capacity (new engine), and oil required when changing (service oil change), IE not all the old oil drains on a oil change, but on a new, unfilled engine it generally takes a bit more to fill those spots that do not drain when changing the oil. FYI - It is worse to run over full than slightly under full.
The reason why overfilling is bad, is that if the oil level gets too close to the crankshaft, the oil will be whipped into a aerated mess, which reduces the lubrication qualities, and normally the camshaft lobes and lifter bases take it in the shorts. Of course roller cams and lifters really reduce this likelihood, but old school flat tappet cams and lifters are highly affected by this.
David
Always check before putting all of what the manual says. I don't know how
much mine took, but it was less that 7.5 qts.
much mine took, but it was less that 7.5 qts.
CaveCreekRay
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3800 HST, KingKutter box scraper, KingKutter 66" rake, County Pride Subsoiler
Not wanting to open up a poo-fling here but.... Just my $.02
I always drain my oil on a cold engine.
I changed it on warm engines for years, because I drove them to the auto hobby shop on base to change the oil.
When I started doing much of my work at home, I changed the oil on an engine that had not started in hours, usually overnight. The change in the refill oil color was startling. It looked clean the next day. Putting clean oil in a "wet engine" left oil noticeably darker.
By letting the oil settle, much more of the contaminants drain to the pan with the old oil. Warming the engine up just distributes all that material all over the engine, in the form of contaminated oil. It will take hours for that dirty oil to find its way to the pan. If you pour clean oil in your freshly "churned" engine, you are just mixing dirty oil with clean. ESPECIALLY in a diesel which has tons of carbon and other combustion byproducts suspended in the oil.
Try it sometime. You might realize the same thing I did. Plus, it's a lot nicer working on a cool engine!
Helpful Hint: Of course, you have to position the vehicle where it can be drained the next day, without starting it.
I always drain my oil on a cold engine.
I changed it on warm engines for years, because I drove them to the auto hobby shop on base to change the oil.
When I started doing much of my work at home, I changed the oil on an engine that had not started in hours, usually overnight. The change in the refill oil color was startling. It looked clean the next day. Putting clean oil in a "wet engine" left oil noticeably darker.
By letting the oil settle, much more of the contaminants drain to the pan with the old oil. Warming the engine up just distributes all that material all over the engine, in the form of contaminated oil. It will take hours for that dirty oil to find its way to the pan. If you pour clean oil in your freshly "churned" engine, you are just mixing dirty oil with clean. ESPECIALLY in a diesel which has tons of carbon and other combustion byproducts suspended in the oil.
Try it sometime. You might realize the same thing I did. Plus, it's a lot nicer working on a cool engine!
Helpful Hint: Of course, you have to position the vehicle where it can be drained the next day, without starting it.
I have done both styles, hot and cold engine. I prefer the cold engine just to keep it easy to handle but I still start the engine to mix the contaminants up a bit.
Particles are supposed to be trapped by your filter. If your filter is in bypass, you are waiting to long to change your oil anyway so I wouldn't worry about 'clean vs. dirty'. We're talking diesels here and their engine oils are naturally dirty.
Now, as for transmission/hydraulic oil changes, you should follow the manual to the letter. Shortcuts kill you and there is no need to void a warranty with them. Do it all by the book and be thorough.
Particles are supposed to be trapped by your filter. If your filter is in bypass, you are waiting to long to change your oil anyway so I wouldn't worry about 'clean vs. dirty'. We're talking diesels here and their engine oils are naturally dirty.
Now, as for transmission/hydraulic oil changes, you should follow the manual to the letter. Shortcuts kill you and there is no need to void a warranty with them. Do it all by the book and be thorough.
Tallahassee Kubota Man
New member
Equipment
M5140HD/LA1153/LandPride RCF2072/DirtDog disc/RakeMaster grapple/Caroni tiller
I will be taking delivery of a new M5140D in a couple of days. In reading my owner's manual it says change the oil and filter every 200 hrs, but doesn't address the first 100 hrs or so. I usually dump the oil and filter around 50 hrs when the motor is new. Any comments or suggestions?
Tallahassee Kubota Man
New member
Equipment
M5140HD/LA1153/LandPride RCF2072/DirtDog disc/RakeMaster grapple/Caroni tiller
I read the manual again (slower this time) and found in the maintenance schedule that clutch play, engine oil and filter, hydraulic oil and filter should be serviced. Have any of you changed the engine oil before the 50 hr mark? Thanks.
No need to change anything before the 50 hr mark. Just follow the manual. Nice tractor you are gettin!
BTW, I was born and raised in Tally, moved to Mo in 1990.
