L366 Kubota bush hog
- Thread starter sdk1968
- Start date
BigG
Well-known member
Equipment
l2501, FEL, BB, Rotary cutter, rake,spreader, roller, etc. New Holland TL80 A
have been playing with this hog..
its actually a L366 Kubota.
ive got the cracks in the deck welded up & added some angle iron over top of them so that its not an issue going forward.
adjusted the 3 point tree so that it hooks up easy on my tractor & QH. got the unit all leveled up when its hooked up now.
rebuilt the tailwheel mount cause it was trashed.
gearbox was still full.
blades are pretty rusty, but gonna run them & see if this is a good unit or not before buying more blades.
it had been sitting a long time.
THEN if its solid? will taker her outside & get some of the rust off of her & do some rust bond & give it a coat of paint. The painting might wait till fall/winter. we'll see.
This unit is HEAVY. 2" square tube tree, 2" square tube frame down the middle & 1/4" channel as the cross member with the gear box.
The deck metal is pretty thin, looks to be 1/8" stuff, but if i keep the unit? will just plate over it as needed.
weight isnt really an issue for me on the CK4010.
will add pix later.
its actually a L366 Kubota.
ive got the cracks in the deck welded up & added some angle iron over top of them so that its not an issue going forward.
adjusted the 3 point tree so that it hooks up easy on my tractor & QH. got the unit all leveled up when its hooked up now.
rebuilt the tailwheel mount cause it was trashed.
gearbox was still full.
blades are pretty rusty, but gonna run them & see if this is a good unit or not before buying more blades.
it had been sitting a long time.
THEN if its solid? will taker her outside & get some of the rust off of her & do some rust bond & give it a coat of paint. The painting might wait till fall/winter. we'll see.
This unit is HEAVY. 2" square tube tree, 2" square tube frame down the middle & 1/4" channel as the cross member with the gear box.
The deck metal is pretty thin, looks to be 1/8" stuff, but if i keep the unit? will just plate over it as needed.
weight isnt really an issue for me on the CK4010.
will add pix later.
oh & once we had the right model number.... i found the page for it:
Kubota L366 (66" ROTARY CUTTER) Parts Diagrams
Kubota Parts Catalog Lookup. Buy Kubota Parts Online & Save!
www.messicks.com
more straightening of metal & cleaning of rust...
the blades were shot & bent on top of being round on the ends.
Tractor supply had a set on the shelf, so its got new blades now. gear box ran nice & smooth.
the stump jumper isnt in great shape, but its not at the have to replace point either, so will run it for this year & see if the unit is a keeper.
got the "rust stop" on it all over & will start priming it & painting it next. im not gonna sand blast or grind it down. the deck metal is just too thin on this thing.
the frame is super heavy duty stuff, but the deck metal appears to just be 1/8" stuff.
not gonna be a factory original paint job, but it will look decent when im done.
the blades were shot & bent on top of being round on the ends.
Tractor supply had a set on the shelf, so its got new blades now. gear box ran nice & smooth.
the stump jumper isnt in great shape, but its not at the have to replace point either, so will run it for this year & see if the unit is a keeper.
got the "rust stop" on it all over & will start priming it & painting it next. im not gonna sand blast or grind it down. the deck metal is just too thin on this thing.
the frame is super heavy duty stuff, but the deck metal appears to just be 1/8" stuff.
not gonna be a factory original paint job, but it will look decent when im done.
got the new blades on & locked in. man oh man that is some big iron flinging around under there.
super smooth at PTO speed!
been torrential downpouring here the last couple days, so will focus on the paint job while trying to get it to dry up..... then its live test time!
will post pix soon as its painted & deflectors on the front.
super smooth at PTO speed!
been torrential downpouring here the last couple days, so will focus on the paint job while trying to get it to dry up..... then its live test time!
will post pix soon as its painted & deflectors on the front.
well its got 2 coats of Rustame on it... then washed it & put 2 coats of paint on it.
still gotta go back & do some touch up with a small brush. Then its all about if im gonna order the decals for it or not.
still gotta go back & do some touch up with a small brush. Then its all about if im gonna order the decals for it or not.
well took it out & made my laps bushogging my trails...
heres the good & not so good:
GOOD: it cuts great! now only takes me 1 pass & my trails are perfect width of cut! Also, this is a very smooth running hog. cant believe how much different it is than my King Kutter. SOOOOO much heavier & just doesnt seem to care about the stuff you "encounter" bushhogging thru the woods.
NOT so Good: of course there are some thing to tweak. gotta get that deflector on the intake side & need to open the exit up on the back so that everything goes out the back instead of out the front & dusting me to death.
small physical change to make= need to pull the right side of the hog out a little further, its too close to the blades. & man i would love to get a set of front bumper wheels on that thing for the corners so it wont dig in & would instead roll up/over a bump.
heres the good & not so good:
GOOD: it cuts great! now only takes me 1 pass & my trails are perfect width of cut! Also, this is a very smooth running hog. cant believe how much different it is than my King Kutter. SOOOOO much heavier & just doesnt seem to care about the stuff you "encounter" bushhogging thru the woods.
NOT so Good: of course there are some thing to tweak. gotta get that deflector on the intake side & need to open the exit up on the back so that everything goes out the back instead of out the front & dusting me to death.
small physical change to make= need to pull the right side of the hog out a little further, its too close to the blades. & man i would love to get a set of front bumper wheels on that thing for the corners so it wont dig in & would instead roll up/over a bump.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
It looks like you are holding the mower rigid at the front. Is there any way that mower can pivot around the pins of the lower arms on the three point hitch?
On mine I could remove the top link if I never needed to lift the mower. There is an additional link on mine so the top link is fairly loose. This allows the mower to float on the pins and rear wheel and not drag the front end going over reasonably sharp dips and bumps.
On mine I could remove the top link if I never needed to lift the mower. There is an additional link on mine so the top link is fairly loose. This allows the mower to float on the pins and rear wheel and not drag the front end going over reasonably sharp dips and bumps.
^^ right.
the newer hogs all have that floating top link which allows it to pivot while still having fairly rigid bars running to the back.
this older style Kubota ... the "tree" stays put on the 3 point & the deck itself still pivots on the lower 2 mounting bolts of the 3 point & the cable that runs from the 3 point to the mount on that tail.
it was factory made this way, before those new style floating top links came out. achieves the same result. You will see a lot of guys here & on the net who have rough terrain undo the bars & run a chain to the back. YES sometimes this can be dangerous if it were to "flip" up at you.
for people with flat ground? probably doesnt matter. for people like me who are constantly mowing steep inclines/declines & do a lot of that backwards?
its a big help in getting a good cut without bending & breaking the mount or brackets back there.
do want a front roller though to get that front edge up/over things. This is mainly because im cutting way shorter than most people like to do with a hog. most people are just getting things knocked down or manageable height..... my hogging on my trails is down to almost dirt level everywhere.
scalping & leveling it all at the same time.
the newer hogs all have that floating top link which allows it to pivot while still having fairly rigid bars running to the back.
this older style Kubota ... the "tree" stays put on the 3 point & the deck itself still pivots on the lower 2 mounting bolts of the 3 point & the cable that runs from the 3 point to the mount on that tail.
it was factory made this way, before those new style floating top links came out. achieves the same result. You will see a lot of guys here & on the net who have rough terrain undo the bars & run a chain to the back. YES sometimes this can be dangerous if it were to "flip" up at you.
for people with flat ground? probably doesnt matter. for people like me who are constantly mowing steep inclines/declines & do a lot of that backwards?
its a big help in getting a good cut without bending & breaking the mount or brackets back there.
do want a front roller though to get that front edge up/over things. This is mainly because im cutting way shorter than most people like to do with a hog. most people are just getting things knocked down or manageable height..... my hogging on my trails is down to almost dirt level everywhere.
scalping & leveling it all at the same time.
getting back to this hog...
so i ran it the rest of the year the way you saw in these pix. it turned out to be a fine hog. nice & smooth. cuts good, is heavy enough that its not bothered by brush or finger size stuff.
but........ the sides were pretty flimsy. gotta fix that.
while having a few days off over the xmas break, i cut both of the sides off of it & redid them with 1/4" thick stuff. YES real 1/4" thick steel. weight is no issue for me on this, bending the sides ever 2 seconds is.
had a pile of 1/4" thick x 3"w angle iron & some 1/4" thick x 4" wide stuff. this worked out perfect.
the factory height of the sides was 7"... same for what i had on hand.
cut angle iron the proper length for the side, then cut some of the flat the same. stich welded them together down the seam for the side panels & then the real work started. all that good paint job i did earlier had to be ground back off along with the rust inhibitor to give me something to weld to.
while i was at it cut some angle for the front & ran all the way across it to stiffen & secure all that up for the rest of my lifetime.
next? its back to repaint it all & call it done. will grab some pix in a day or two after the paint is done.
so i ran it the rest of the year the way you saw in these pix. it turned out to be a fine hog. nice & smooth. cuts good, is heavy enough that its not bothered by brush or finger size stuff.
but........ the sides were pretty flimsy. gotta fix that.
while having a few days off over the xmas break, i cut both of the sides off of it & redid them with 1/4" thick stuff. YES real 1/4" thick steel. weight is no issue for me on this, bending the sides ever 2 seconds is.
had a pile of 1/4" thick x 3"w angle iron & some 1/4" thick x 4" wide stuff. this worked out perfect.
the factory height of the sides was 7"... same for what i had on hand.
cut angle iron the proper length for the side, then cut some of the flat the same. stich welded them together down the seam for the side panels & then the real work started. all that good paint job i did earlier had to be ground back off along with the rust inhibitor to give me something to weld to.
while i was at it cut some angle for the front & ran all the way across it to stiffen & secure all that up for the rest of my lifetime.
next? its back to repaint it all & call it done. will grab some pix in a day or two after the paint is done.
