L3560 HSTC 50hr maintenance

[eiresurg]

I have a couple questions about the 50hr maintenance Â***8230;

Per the manual, I'm doing the initial 50hr maintenance on my 2019 L3560:

1) Oil change -- check
2) Oil filter change -- check
3) Wheel bolt torque -- check
4) Greasing --
* "Front wheel case support" -- I crawled all over this tractor trying to find these and don't see them anywhere. Am I losing my mind? Maybe these are only on the L4060 and above?
* "Front axle support" -- found this zerk fitting, but there is no "breather plug" as they describe in the manual. Maybe this is just on the L4060 and above? Applied a "small amount" of grease to this zerk as recommended.
* Right and left lift cylinders -- check
* Top link -- check
* Lifting rod -- check
* Battery terminals -- check; seems strange as I've never seen this on any vehicle I've owned, but ok

5) Replace transmission oil filter -- UGH!! First, the WSM says to "remove the drain plugs at the bottom of the transmission case and drain the oil completely into the oil pan." So, I removed one of the plugs and oil blasted out! I immediately replaced the plug before I emptied all of the transmission fluid. Based on the volume of fluid that came out in the 1/100th of second that I had the plug off, I imagine that would drain ALL of the transmission fluid. Yet, the manual does not call for replacing the transmission/hydraulic fluid until the 400hr mark. Am I missing something? Anyway, so I skipped that step and proceeded to change the transmission oil filter. It's stuck! I mean really stuck! I tried simple filter pliers--no grip. I used a cheap metal strap wrench--slipped. Went back to store and got a "heavy duty" metal strap wrench and it gripped, but the filter wouldn't budge. I put a cheater-pipe on it and bent the wrench! I've purchased a claw-type filter wrench that you can put a big socket wrench on. That's my next plan, but I wanted to get y'alls opinion before I burn any bridges. This claw-wrench will likely destroy the filter in the process. I don't want to end up with a busted up filter that I can't get off and not be able to move the tractor, either. Thoughts? The factory filter is painted. Maybe the paint has got this thing stuck? Also, I bought a chain-style strap wrench but it won't fit between the transmission oil filter and hydraulic filter which sit right next to each other.

 

[conropl]

I also have the L3560.
- The fittings for the "Front Wheel Case Suport" do not exist on mine either. The spot were it shows in the WSM is a flat spot on the casing that was never drilled and threaded. It doesn't exist.
- The "Front Axle Support" fitting does exist, and there is a square headed plug above the fitting.
- The transmission filter is a real pain in the rear. I could not get it off with any wrench. I ended up using a chisel. I put the chisel as close to tangent to the base as possible and still get the chisel in one of the notches at the base and pound it loose. It doesn't sound right, but it was the only way to get it off. And based on others experiences that have been posted previously... it sounds like it is normal for this filter to be a pain to get off.

Good luck.

Sent from my SM-J737V using Tapatalk

 

[Bmyers]

In WSM the front wheel case support are not on the L3560. Like yourself i looked all over for them because the owner's manual clear states they are there, which they are not.

 

[sheepfarmer]

Yup, first time I couldn't find them, and stopped by dealer and was told the 3560 doesn't have them.

One of the other gotchas in the owners manual is to look carefully at the figures for a note in the corner for which tractor the picture applies to. Eg checking Dust Indicator.

 

[angelo c]

Maybe try removing filter when the engine is "hot" ?

 

[SidecarFlip]

I've had some tough ones in the past but I always 'get my man'. I take a large flat blade screwdriver and a hammer and run the screwdriver through the filter and use the screwdriver to lever them off.

Oil does come 'gushing out'. No ordinary automotive drain pan works. I use a cut off section of a truck aluminum fuel tank as a drain pan. My M9's hold just under 15 gallons in the gearcase.

You want to drop a couple gallons of fluid so you can get the filter(s) off without making a mess and put the oil back in when you change the filter(s). Why a clean drain pan is a requirement.

When you install the new filter(s), put some oil on the gaskets, makes removal next time much easier. Kubota installs the filter(s) dry at the factory which is why they are so hard to get off.

 

[GeoHorn]

I disagree with putting oil on filter gaskets (as is often instructed by manuals) because the REASON they want you to lubricate the gasket is so that the gasket will NOT DEFORM during the twisting-action of reinstallation.

That oil will actually cause the filter to STICK to the machined-base to which it is fitted and make it very difficult to remove next time.

I always use Dow-Corning Slicone grease on filter gaskets as I ws taught in my aviation maintenance training. The silicone grease will not dryout (and act as an adhesive), making the removal in the future much easier.

https://www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-...corning+silicone+grease&qid=1580431596&sr=8-4

 

[SidecarFlip]

Gee, been using compatible oil on the filter gaskets since I was 16 years old and I'm 70 now and have always unscrewed with no issue. I must just be heavy handed I guess.....

You remind me of my buddy who is a certified airframe mechanic. I asked him one time how he tested a wing structure for structural soundness and his reply was "I get out on the end of the wing and jump up and down" (works on small private planes and owns the airfield too).

I'll have to ask him next time I see him if he uses your elixir on filter gaskets. I bet he uses compatible oil too however,

 

[eiresurg]

I also have the L3560.
- The fittings for the "Front Wheel Case Suport" do not exist on mine either. The spot were it shows in the WSM is a flat spot on the casing that was never drilled and threaded. It doesn't exist.
- The "Front Axle Support" fitting does exist, and there is a square headed plug above the fitting.
- The transmission filter is a real pain in the rear. I could not get it off with any wrench. I ended up using a chisel. I put the chisel as close to tangent to the base as possible and still get the chisel in one of the notches at the base and pound it loose. It doesn't sound right, but it was the only way to get it off. And based on others experiences that have been posted previously... it sounds like it is normal for this filter to be a pain to get off.

Good luck.

Sent from my SM-J737V using Tapatalk

Thank you! It was driving me crazy. Overall, I'm surprised by the fact that there's so few zerk fittings on this machine. I have far more on my zero turn mower.

 

[eiresurg]

Yup, first time I couldn't find them, and stopped by dealer and was told the 3560 doesn't have them.

One of the other gotchas in the owners manual is to look carefully at the figures for a note in the corner for which tractor the picture applies to. Eg checking Dust Indicator.

Noticed that about the dust indicator, so I looked for it regarding those zerk fitting on the from axle.

 

[eiresurg]

Well, I got it off tonight! Used the new claw wrench. Brilliant! Thanks for all the comments.

 

[200mph]

Thank you! It was driving me crazy. Overall, I'm surprised by the fact that there's so few zerk fittings on this machine. I have far more on my zero turn mower.

It's due to cost cutting and to promote future revenue generation when the parts fails. You'll be forced to buy the part from Kubota for 10X what it would cost if an aftermarket supplier existed. It's a win-win for them.

 

[GeoHorn]

Gee, been using compatible oil on the filter gaskets since I was 16 years old and I'm 70 now and have always unscrewed with no issue. I must just be heavy handed I guess.....

,

Well, Flip... youd better watch-out then! Because someone ELSE is using your computer who seems to need unusual methods because he used oil.

I've had some tough ones in the past but I always 'get my man'. I take a large flat blade screwdriver and a hammer and run the screwdriver through the filter and use the screwdriver to lever them off. ,

 

[SidecarFlip]

Well, Flip... youd better watch-out then! Because someone ELSE is using your computer who seems to need unusual methods because he used oil.

Both the same thing George. If it don't come off, I lever it off with a screwdriver. Next time, I will try it dry or with your stuff just to be fair.

 

[SidecarFlip]

It's due to cost cutting and to promote future revenue generation when the parts fails. You'll be forced to buy the part from Kubota for 10X what it would cost if an aftermarket supplier existed. It's a win-win for them.

Something that irks me about my M's. No grease fittings on the tie rod ends and the OEM end is $127 bucks per and no grease fitting. Last time around I went aftermarket, 55 bucks (still too high) and came with a grease fitting. Least I can grease my upper outboards. I see the smaller units have the cast in boss, but not drilled and tapped for a fitting. Poor execution of design in my view.

Kubota OEM parts are all over the map on costs. Some are bargains, most aren't and some are stupid priced. Thank the Lord, filters don't fall into that realm.

 

[DonP]

I was shocked ...

L3560, 14 months old. 400 hours and first change of the hydraulic and front axle oil.

The 3 containers are old Pepsi plastic containers so there is no difference in the clarity of the plastic. I backlit top down above the containers with a sheet of white paper behind the bottles to show the difference in the color of the oil. I caught the oil as it poured out of the front end, and the transmission - before it hit anything else (old used oil catch containers).

The results are amazing, as are the fragments of metal and silicon sealing materials stuck in the hydraulic magnet of the ingress side of the hydraulic filters.

A picture tells a thousand words here.

I was shocked to see Bronze/Brass material floating in the front axel oil as it was drained. It was as if someone took powdered metal filings and dumped them into the oil.

There is nothing more disturbing than to see this kind of wear internally in the front axle on a 1 year old Grand L 3560 with 400 hours used around our property. we use the front loader (805) for lifting mostly IBC totes for firewood for out home, and lifting logs to cut down into rounds so we can split them into firewood.

We have also done some excavation work on a driveway of about 150ft by 20ft, removing about 60 ton of material and placing it in another area in the yard for building the barn on. I cant believe that kind of wear is from that use and weight on the front end. If it is, then we may need to do something else over using the tractor for what it's intended to be used for?

We just started mowing this summer, and had only used the PTO for a post hole attachment previous to this. The Hydro Fluid looks beat up. yes I have a grapple that we use about 60% of the time for firewood prep, but other than that its just driving and carrying firewood for our 1800sq ft home. We also burn oil so we are not dedicating that 1800sq f.t to all wood burning.

Maybe I'm just a little paranoid. What are your thoughts?

 

[Mossy dell]

Can't believe there were no thoughts on this. Mine is that 400 hours appears too long a recommended interval!

View attachment 65846

I was shocked ...

L3560, 14 months old. 400 hours and first change of the hydraulic and front axle oil.

The 3 containers are old Pepsi plastic containers so there is no difference in the clarity of the plastic. I backlit top down above the containers with a sheet of white paper behind the bottles to show the difference in the color of the oil. I caught the oil as it poured out of the front end, and the transmission - before it hit anything else (old used oil catch containers).

The results are amazing, as are the fragments of metal and silicon sealing materials stuck in the hydraulic magnet of the ingress side of the hydraulic filters.

A picture tells a thousand words here.

I was shocked to see Bronze/Brass material floating in the front axel oil as it was drained. It was as if someone took powdered metal filings and dumped them into the oil.

There is nothing more disturbing than to see this kind of wear internally in the front axle on a 1 year old Grand L 3560 with 400 hours used around our property. we use the front loader (805) for lifting mostly IBC totes for firewood for out home, and lifting logs to cut down into rounds so we can split them into firewood.

We have also done some excavation work on a driveway of about 150ft by 20ft, removing about 60 ton of material and placing it in another area in the yard for building the barn on. I cant believe that kind of wear is from that use and weight on the front end. If it is, then we may need to do something else over using the tractor for what it's intended to be used for?

We just started mowing this summer, and had only used the PTO for a post hole attachment previous to this. The Hydro Fluid looks beat up. yes I have a grapple that we use about 60% of the time for firewood prep, but other than that its just driving and carrying firewood for our 1800sq ft home. We also burn oil so we are not dedicating that 1800sq f.t to all wood burning.

Maybe I'm just a little paranoid. What are your thoughts?

 

[ItBmine]

I change all my fluids every season and never worry. Oil's cheap compared to parts.

 

[retired farmer]

Yep that first filter change can be a bitch. I used a heavy duty filter wrench, a cheater pipe and big ass brother inlaw.