L35 Starter Wiring Pictures

[Billssa]

Your fuel cutoff doesn't need power to run. The solenoid energizes for a few seconds when you turn the key off to shutoff the fuel. There is also a manual shutoff knob on the lower right side of the dash, it's pull to stop. It also pulls a spring loaded lever on the injector pump. Make sure nothing is pulling that lever and that the lever is moving, so you'll have a way to shut 'er down when you get it running.

Pull the fuel line off at the injector pump and make sure you have a good stream when you crank it over.

You don't need to open the injector lines to bleed the system Hopefully, you didnt turn them at the injector pump end - you can mess up the pump. There is a bleeder valve where the fuel line connects to the injector pump. Leave it open until the engine starts, then close it.

I will pull the fuel line making sure I am getting fuel. I will look for a bleeder valve instead of cracking the lines. I will make sure that pull stop isn’t engaged. I will follow up tomorrow, thank you

 

[Nicksacco]

Hello,
Below is a picture of my L35 (injector - right side) prior to restoration:

I've pointed out the:
-- Bleeder valve (normally closed when running)
-- Accelerator linkage
-- Fuel cutoff cable wire and lever (circled) - should be forward to run

So you said you pulled the engine to replace piston rings?
Did you remove the injector pump itself or the left pump?

 

[Billssa]

Hello,
Below is a picture of my L35 (injector - right side) prior to restoration:

I've pointed out the:
-- Bleeder valve (normally closed when running)
-- Accelerator linkage
-- Fuel cutoff cable wire and lever (circled) - should be forward to run

So you said you pulled the engine to replace piston rings?
Did you remove the injector pump itself or the left pump?

View attachment 94865

thanks for pic, is the bleeder valve suppose to pullout or just loosen? I am handy enough to pull the engine and had a shop put the new rings in. I never took off the injector pump.

 

[Nicksacco]

thanks for pic, is the bleeder valve suppose to pullout or just loosen? I am handy enough to pull the engine and had a shop put the new rings in. I never took off the injector pump.

Good question: It turns - CCW opens it. It should not require much to turn it. They can be found on Amazon and Ebay - not too expensive.

Also my previous post should have been LIFT pump - not left pump. Not enough coffee...

 

[Billssa]

Good question: It turns - CCW opens it. It should not require much to turn it. They can be found on Amazon and Ebay - not too expensive.

Also my previous post should have been LIFT pump - not left pump. Not enough coffee...

I made sure I was getting good fuel to the injector and that the pull stop switch was not banged up but still no smoke when turning over after 15 seconds. Going to put a fresh battery on it. I am guessing since the engine was completely empty of fluids it is taking time for everything to get back through the system to ignite. With having to disconnect the wire from the starter to jump start the tractor would that be bypassing any switches besides the safeties that would not let the tractor start? Thanks for help

 

[Nicksacco]

I made sure I was getting good fuel to the injector and that the pull stop switch was not banged up but still no smoke when turning over after 15 seconds. Going to put a fresh battery on it. I am guessing since the engine was completely empty of fluids it is taking time for everything to get back through the system to ignite. With having to disconnect the wire from the starter to jump start the tractor would that be bypassing any switches besides the safeties that would not let the tractor start? Thanks for help

Bill, you have any luck starting yet?

The L35 only has 3 safety switches. And these matter only if you're using the existing wiring:
Won't Start unless:
--Fwd-Rev lever in Neutral
--PTO off
The Brake switch only turns on a dash light - not part of starting.

So if you're bypassing OEM wiring straight to battery so you can get the engine to crank, the only thing preventing starting (other than very broken things) would be:

--No fuel into the injectors (possible air in line)
--LIFT pump not working to supply the injector pump (manipulated by an engine cam - not electrical)
--Injector pump not working - not enough pressure or timing - air in line (turned by an engine cam)
--Fuel lines clogged or other obstruction
--Fuel rack on injector pump in OFF position (check that the key solenoid is disconnected as a test)

Hopefully when the shop put your engine together they didn't leave out any parts.

Just don't use any starting fluid with the machine.

Bleed to see if the lift pump is supplying fuel to the injector pump.
Bleed to see fuel coming out the top of the injector pump
Then bleed at the injectors to see fuel coming out there.

You shouldn't have to crank that long to see the fuel from these places.

Once you know fuel is coming to the injector pump, close that valve.