L35 not moving/hydraulics?

[RMBlauvelt]

I have a L35 with loader and backhoe. It has been sitting exposed for about 2 years.

I finally started it up again. It had a starter issue. It starts up quickly and the engine runs smoothly.

I put it in gear and moved it about 50 feet. Then is stopped moving. I changed the engine oil, flushed the radiator, changed the front axel oil, greased the joints, and still no improvement. The hydraulic fluid was changed a couple years ago and looked only slightly dirty but dipped full or just over full.

The steering wheel intermittently turns the wheel, but mostly is disengaged and free. The clutch pedal moves freely - but the manual clutch is not typically used for shifting. The PTO spins when engaged. The bucket and hoe hydraulics work but are weak and jittery.

I have jostled the shifter (on the steering column) a bunch of times and nothing had changed. Tried it over 2 days and no change.

I had the 46 hydraulic fluid in it and potentially this is the wrong stuff. So I swapped it out for kubota UDT fluid which cost a fortune. No change.

So it seems the hydraulic systems are not working. The steering, bucket/hoe, and clutch are all hydraulic.

Super appreciate next step on diagnostics before I get an expensive repair guy to take a look.

Thanks

Roger

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I will have to give you a better answer when I get home to check prints but it sounds like a suction or main pump issue.
Did you change filters when you changed fluid?

 

[RMBlauvelt]

good thought. I changed the oil filter just now. The larger hydraulic filter I changed a couple of years ago, but not recently. Perhaps worth a try? Thanks!

 

[L35]

Check the condition of parts 100(x2) and 200 on this schematic. They are on the suction side of the hydraulic system (right side of tractor) and if they are dry rotted they will suck air but not leak oil. I’ve had to replace mine already.

https://www.messicks.com/catalogs/kubota/l35/hydraulic-system/t09700-hydraulic-oil-line-inlet

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Check the condition of parts 100(x2) and 200 on this schematic. They are on the suction side of the hydraulic system (right side of tractor) and if they are dry rotted they will suck air but not leak oil. I’ve had to replace mine already.

https://www.messicks.com/catalogs/kubota/l35/hydraulic-system/t09700-hydraulic-oil-line-inlet

There are more of those hoses up around the cooler. The steering and cooler are on the engine mounted pump discharge, but the whole thing rides on the front pump suction line so some part of it may be under vacuum at times. In any case, I replaced all of mine, too.

OP, since you have implement and travel/steering issues, suction problem is indicated, since those are on separate pumps. Since you've replaced the filter and this machine doesn't have a screen, try disconnecting the hose that runs from the pump to the P port on the loader valve, stick it in a bucket, and start your tractor. If fluid starts running out, shut her down and reconnect the hose. If that doesn't prime it, pull a little vacuum on that hose to draw fluid into the pump. Or you can try pouring fluid into the top of the pump.

 

[RMBlauvelt]

Thanks guys!! Looking into it. Those fittings 100x2 and 200 look old but intact.

 

[L35]

Pull one and look at the inside if you have not. Tough to tell condition with the weave on the exterior.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If anything is "wet" it's leaking.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I have a L35 with loader and backhoe. It has been sitting exposed for about 2 years.

I finally started it up again. It had a starter issue. It starts up quickly and the engine runs smoothly.

I put it in gear and moved it about 50 feet. Then is stopped moving. I changed the engine oil, flushed the radiator, changed the front axel oil, greased the joints, and still no improvement. The hydraulic fluid was changed a couple years ago and looked only slightly dirty but dipped full or just over full.

The steering wheel intermittently turns the wheel, but mostly is disengaged and free. The clutch pedal moves freely - but the manual clutch is not typically used for shifting. The PTO spins when engaged. The bucket and hoe hydraulics work but are weak and jittery.

I have jostled the shifter (on the steering column) a bunch of times and nothing had changed. Tried it over 2 days and no change.

I had the 46 hydraulic fluid in it and potentially this is the wrong stuff. So I swapped it out for kubota UDT fluid which cost a fortune. No change.

So it seems the hydraulic systems are not working. The steering, bucket/hoe, and clutch are all hydraulic.

Super appreciate next step on diagnostics before I get an expensive repair guy to take a look.

Thanks

Roger

I think its now time to actually put eyes on your hydraulic system.

Remove the inlet supply hose on the loader valve and stick it in a clean 5 gallon bucket. Now start the tractor, set throttle to max. and time how long it takes (seconds) to fill the bucket half full. Watch it as it fills - the flow should be strong and steady with no burps or spurts. Post the results.

Dan

 

[RMBlauvelt]

Update. I had a fellow come by and we poked around and ended up changing the hydraulic filter. This fixed the hydraulics. I know you guys mentioned that and I had changed it a 50 engine hours ago, but that was apparently a problem. It did not look terrible when we opened it but I suppose enough to slow fluid return and drop pressure?

The implements and steering are now strong and the PTO moves unloaded.

However, the tractor does not move. The wheels were turning in the air (on the outriggers), but not on the ground. It sometimes will nudge forward a bit when engaged.

The dude looked into the dry clutch with a boroscope and thought he was it was not engaging but I am not convinced. It does make sense that the dry clutch is now a problem and not the HST clutch.

Unhooked the pedal linkage to the clutch and the bar that connects to the horizontal internal actuator does not naturally spring one way or the other.

I dread a clutch job as I understand that is a "split" and $$$$

Thanks

Roger

 

[PoTreeBoy]

You can put a load on the PTO to test the dry clutch. PTO and travel power go through the dry clutch, only travel goes through the hydraulic clutch. If you have power on the PTO, you have power on the transmission input.

 

[RMBlauvelt]

Po, that is interesting.

I have no PTO implements and have never taken the backhoe off, so it might take some doing. Unless you have a trick?

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Po, that is interesting.

I have no PTO implements and have never taken the backhoe off, so it might take some doing. Unless you have a trick?

Actually, I misled you a little. This may require an observer. Put the PTO in gear, put the tractor in gear (shuttle and gear), let the clutch out. If the PTO turns but the tractor doesn't move, the dry clutch is not your problem.

Since it sounds like you're not sure on the shifter, there's another way to test. It's not as easy and there is some danger involved. See if you can put a little resistance on the PTO shaft with a 2x4 or equal to resist it turning. It doesn't need much, the shaft only turns when disengaged due to oil whirl or friction.

 

[RMBlauvelt]

ok updated data

With my foot OFF THE CLUTCH

in neutral the PTO turns and I cannot stop with with friction from a 2x2

In gear, the tractor lurches forward a tiny bit, does not move, and the PTO STOPs turning

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The dude looked into the dry clutch with a boroscope and thought he was it was not engaging but I am not convinced. It does make sense that the dry clutch is now a problem and not the HST clutch.

Well lets hope the HST clutch never works, as HST's do not have "clutches"
And more Importantly you have a GST, completely different animal than an HST.

Have you confirmed that the range selector is in a range?
Have you confirmed that the gear selector is in a gear, 1-8?
Have you tried engaging the shuttle forward and reverse direction?

 

[RMBlauvelt]

Wolfman,

Apologies for the sloppy choice of words!

I understand it does run on a GST and that it is not really a clutch. Not sure what to call it... a clutch-less transmission? I understand it can "slip" or fail to engage like a clutch which is part of my debugging process.

Yes I have tried varied positions in the gear selector. No different effect.

I have shuttled to shuttle (shift lever on steering column) forward and back without success. Forward, neutral, reverse over and over.

Interesting I do not think my L35 has a range selector. There is an empty "slot" on the left behind the gear selector. There is a 4 wheel drive engagement lever. There is a diff lock pedal (more of a metal tab). There is a PTO on/off lever in the front floor center. There is a throttle pedal. There is a split brake pedal. There is another lever on the right that I think has something to do with the PTO that I never use and moving it does nothing I can see.

Additional info. When I depress the clutch pedal the PTO slows and stops. Again, when it is in gear (F or R) then the PTO stops.

Thanks for your input!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Sorry no range lever, it's internally controlled on a GST.
And you don't understand, or more likely I've confused you!
A HST does not have a clutch.
A GST does have a hydraulic clutch.
I was poking fun at the HST comment.

Follow the WSM on how to test for pressure at the GST valve.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

The lever on the right, in front of the throttle lever, is the 3ph position control, when/if you use it. Incidentally, if you ever hook up the 3ph, you'll have to switch the valve lever behind the seat for it to function. And, very important to prevent bh valve damage, switch it back when you put the backhoe back on.

I think @North Idaho Wolfman hit the others. Gears 1-4 are low range and 5-8 are high, but the range shift is taken care of by the glideshift genie.

BTW, you can download an owner's manual and WorkShop Manual for free (donation suggested) at KubotaBooks. Highly recommended that you read the owner's manual, the L35 has a couple of quirks that you might not expect.

Sounds like the dry clutch is slipping. At first you said you couldn't easily stop the PTO (with the clutch engaged, I assume). In this case, I'm surprised it wouldn't move on level ground in first gear. Later, I think you indicated the PTO would coast to a stop when the clutch was pushed, like you would expect. This points to a slipping clutch. But splitting an L35 is a PIA, so I'd recommend checking the GST pressures like Wolfman suggested, to eliminate all other possibilities.