L35 front remote hydraulic install with routing pics

[Kamado]

Im going to be adding front remote hydraulics to my L35. I want to use hard line down the loader arms to mimmic fatory looks. Just unsure of end termination location. The hoses for the bucket pistons are close to the arms and hinder the look of a nice smooth transition.

im looking for ideas of what has been done. on the L35 or other loaders Google hasnt showed me what i am after.

Thanks

 

[L35]

Sorry I cannot be of any assistance, but would like to see some pictures once you complete your project!

 

[Kamado]

I can do that. Hopefully might help others seeing there is so little out there on these old gals

 

[Kamado]

here is a list of parts which i used for the 3rd function valve:

Yuken valve: DSG-03-3C60-D12-5090.
Yuken subplate: DSGM-03X-2190
Hubbell Liquid Tight connector: SHC1021
Valve to subplate bolts: 1/4x20 x 1 1/2” allen head bolts
Subplate to mount bolts: 5/16x18 x 2” allen head bolts with lock nuts
Summit hydraulics Joystick handle: SW-J2-10
Grade 8 bolts for loader: 9/16x18 x 2


i had some steel plate and made a bracket to bolt onto the loader support. The hole was made by a 3 1/2” holesaw and slightly opened up with a carbide bit to allow clearance for the fittings underneath. I purchased 2 longer 9/16” bults to mount the plate to the loader support.

i then installed the joystick handle and routed the cable down to the valve location with several zip ties and allowed plenty of extra wire for movement. The handle requires 12v power. I routed the wire over to the fuse panel where i used the LH Work light circuit with 10amp fuse. I had abandoned this circuit earlier. I installed 4 new led lights on the ROPS and i used the RH work light circuit to power them. The ground for the handle was heat shrink ring terminaled and bolted next to the factory ground by the fuses.
The yuken valve has a conduit box for connection unlike the Din connectors of many valves. I simply cut the Din connectors off and wired accordingly:

Valve a: (green +) (black -)
Valve b: (red +) (white -)

Always double check your wiring on your particular harness. The junction box has a 1/2” npt thread. The Hubbell adapter was sourced from Grainger. It accommodates a .19-.25 diameter wire. Inside the junction box i removed the common jumper tab that ties both a b coils together for ground. Seeing as the handle had its own 2 grounds i though it best to leave it as such.

I verified the valve function was working via red lights on the valve.

Now all that is left is to grab a few hoses. I need to bring the machine down toParker hose to see what they can do for hard line. If the cost isnt much more then all hose ill go that route.

 

[Kamado]

Pics

 

[TheOldHokie]

I can do that. Hopefully might help others seeing there is so little out there on these old gals

Yuken is industrial quality and the conduit box models are less expensive than the ones with DIN/DEUTSCH connectors. IMO they also make for a neater installation.

Dan

 

[Kamado]

Yuken is industrial quality and the conduit box models are less expensive than the ones with DIN/DEUTSCH connectors. IMO they also make for a neater installation.

Dan

its what i could find in-stock online for the flow rating of the L35, 17.3 gpm. These valves do 31 gpm. And i agree, after looking at options i like the conduit box. Its a smidge more involved then simply plugging in 2 connectors but looks cleaner.

 

[fried1765]

its what i could find in-stock online for the flow rating of the L35, 17.3 gpm. These valves do 31 gpm. And i agree, after looking at options i like the conduit box. Its a smidge more involved then simply plugging in 2 connectors but looks cleaner.

Looks like a nice neat project.
My 2006 L48 TLB has a third function that was apparently added by the original selling dealer, and also includes a diverter.
I would send you some pix, but I will be 1,500 miles away from my machine until May.
I love the 3rd function,...... and the diverter is icing on the cake!

 

[Kamado]

Went to parker hose this morning and got the hoses made. The guy wasnt too thrilled about trying to do steel so i settled on 1/2” hose in protective sheathing. I will make a bracket for the quick connects and get everything buttoned up this weekend. Might have to get 2 new hoses for the 4in1 bucket made but we shall see.

at some point id like to add a diverter as well or a secondary valve to perhaps run a friends harley rake (angle piston).

 

[TheOldHokie]

Went to parker hose this morning and got the hoses made. The guy wasnt too thrilled about trying to do steel so i settled on 1/2” hose in protective sheathing. I will make a bracket for the quick connects and get everything buttoned up this weekend. Might have to get 2 new hoses for the 4in1 bucket made but we shall see.

at some point id like to add a diverter as well or a secondary valve to perhaps run a friends harley rake (angle piston).

Arrg!! Parker store makes my bank account quiver....

Dan

 

[Kamado]

They are local. Yes there are other places that are cheaper but its an act of god to get it correct. Ive had bad hoses made, wrong length, ect. Next closest hydro place is 30 min away. They deal china hoses and for my time id rather pay for quality hose. Plus i get a good discount.

i did make a quick plate to hold the quick connects. Need to to paint it and find come metric studs to mount it.

 

[Kamado]

Got the valve on and mounted, hoses routed, and plate/bucket on.

hoses went on flawless. The short 32” hose that goes from loader valve to 3rd function fits great. The 2 hoses that run from 3rd function to front are 7’ 10”. Just long enough to make it nicely.

The front plate where the quick connects are is made is 1/4 plate steel. Holes are 3/4” for the bulkhead connectors. I chose the pioneer style for cost. Bucket will rarely be removed so the dripless style i did not need.

i need to get 2 new hoses made from bucket to connectors. I will get them tomorrow.

the ATI SSQA went on flawless. Perfect in every way. I am impressed, and that is not easy to do.

the long bucket will need to be modified with a back stop and add some 3/8 chain hooks and d-ring.

overall im happy and cant wait to use it.

 

[L35]

Looking good. Who’s SSQA kit did you use?

 

[Kamado]

ATI QA-KU4

It’s probably one of the best aftermarket pieces I have seen in a very long time. Quality

 

[L35]

ATI QA-KU4

It’s probably one of the best aftermarket pieces I have seen in a very long time. Quality

I’ve got that on my wish list, thanks

 

[Kamado]

I’ve got that on my wish list, thanks

Make it a reality. After 14 years of ownership, i did. Im not getting any younger and might as well have the machine to the work.

i got 2 new 41” hoses made for the bucket to quick couplers. Everything works perfect.

i need to re adjust the loader feedback bar. Seems a little too curled when i raise empty. Do not want mud and rocks all over the hood if im not paying attention lol

 

[GrappleDave]

here is a list of parts which i used for the 3rd function valve:

Yuken valve: DSG-03-3C60-D12-5090.
Yuken subplate: DSGM-03X-2190
Hubbell Liquid Tight connector: SHC1021
Valve to subplate bolts: 1/4x20 x 1 1/2” allen head bolts
Subplate to mount bolts: 5/16x18 x 2” allen head bolts with lock nuts
Summit hydraulics Joystick handle: SW-J2-10
Grade 8 bolts for loader: 9/16x18 x 2


i had some steel plate and made a bracket to bolt onto the loader support. The hole was made by a 3 1/2” holesaw and slightly opened up with a carbide bit to allow clearance for the fittings underneath. I purchased 2 longer 9/16” bults to mount the plate to the loader support.

i then installed the joystick handle and routed the cable down to the valve location with several zip ties and allowed plenty of extra wire for movement. The handle requires 12v power. I routed the wire over to the fuse panel where i used the LH Work light circuit with 10amp fuse. I had abandoned this circuit earlier. I installed 4 new led lights on the ROPS and i used the RH work light circuit to power them. The ground for the handle was heat shrink ring terminaled and bolted next to the factory ground by the fuses.
The yuken valve has a conduit box for connection unlike the Din connectors of many valves. I simply cut the Din connectors off and wired accordingly:

Valve a: (green +) (black -)
Valve b: (red +) (white -)

Always double check your wiring on your particular harness. The junction box has a 1/2” npt thread. The Hubbell adapter was sourced from Grainger. It accommodates a .19-.25 diameter wire. Inside the junction box i removed the common jumper tab that ties both a b coils together for ground. Seeing as the handle had its own 2 grounds i though it best to leave it as such.

I verified the valve function was working via red lights on the valve.

Now all that is left is to grab a few hoses. I need to bring the machine down toParker hose to see what they can do for hard line. If the cost isnt much more then all hose ill go that route.

Nice looking job!
What was your overall cost all said and done with the hoses?

 

[Kamado]

All in without bucket…. +/- $2200.

1200 plate
300 valve
150 handle
550 hoses, quick connects, and fittings

plus “free” stuff i had. Nuts, bolts, metal, paint, welder, ect

 

[PoTreeBoy]

All in without bucket…. +/- $2200.

1200 plate
300 valve
150 handle
550 hoses, quick connects, and fittings

plus “free” stuff i had. Nuts, bolts, metal, paint, welder, ect

Looks good! I got the ATI adapter also and like it. I'd like to have a grapple - no third function yet.
I replaced the hard lines on my loader. Somebody lowered it with the brush guard out and bent the part that goes across the torque tube. I'm thinking I may be able to modify and reuse two of them to eliminate the hoses along the arms if I ever get around to it.