L3410 no start.

[sub subsistance farm]

alrighty,
I have a L3410 hst with a no start condition.

I ran it yesterday to turn compost into the pile, the sheep were all over it as they probably thought i was getting them a fresh bale. I left it running while i went and threw them some hay. I got back on it, put it in M and promptly stalled it as i did not throttle it back up and its absurdly cold and i forgot i had the bucket holding the front end up to scrape the pile back down some when i got off to deal with the critters.
I yanked it out of gear without depressing the clutch and attempted to start it up again. No cranking at all.

I left it there and went inside to come back to it today. I have been nearly incapacitated with the worst cold i have had the pleasure of having after working myself too hard too many times in this weather, sweating, and chilling myself, and screwing with the tractor at that point in the dark was over my head. whah, piss, moan

It was -24F this morning, so that might have some factor here with the fuel, but i still could not get it to start.

Key in on position after waiting on the glow plugs, solenoid jumped(as it still wont turn over by the key) i still could not get it to start, it turns over and puffs white/blue smoke.

Any advice on where to start on this would be greatly appreciated.
i gotta get it up and going before we have more snow, and before the critters need more hay, so i have like, a day.
All i want to do is lay in front of the woodstove on a sheepskin like a lazy dog and kick this cold, but yup, things keep moving as they will

Could the fuel be jelled, i am pretty sure it was above zero when i was out trying it a few hours ago. I have yet to have it not start though, and its been this cold for a few weeks.

i should note as it might be a factor, an odd thing about this tractor is i do not have to choke it off ever, as soon as i turn the key off it just shuts off like it has spark ignition i cut.

Thanks! Happy new year!

 

[Jim L.]

-24F is a bit out of my lane. Kerosene gels about -20F so that sounds like the problem. Are you using any additives for gelling, and if so, what and how much, and was it added above the gel temps?

 

[sub subsistance farm]

-24F is a bit out of my lane. Kerosene gels about -20F so that sounds like the problem. Are you using any additives for gelling, and if so, what and how much, and was it added above the gel temps?

I am not personally putting additives in the diesel, i assumed that since these temps are part of the game up here the peddlers would put something in it, but you know what they say about assumption. However, i went and looked in the can i poured it from into the tractor which is outside as well, and it is clearly in a liquid state.

tomorrow is supposed to be a high of 23 degrees and sunny, should be lovely out, maybe i will have better luck, i also no longer feel 3/4 in the bag. It is cold but it sure is beautiful outside, i am sad to have to be stuck inside due to my bodies late needs.

 

[sub subsistance farm]

i'll try bleeding it tomorrow playing with the bleed valve, and then cracking the injector fittings to see if i see diesel there when i am cranking. it would at least rule that out. i wonder if cycling the glow plugs a bunch of times would help... Sorry i am not well trained or acquainted with diesels.

so far no signs of attempting combustion.

 

[sheepfarmer]

Before bleeding any lines that seemed to be working fine before it stalled, double triple check any levers etc that may have safety switches associated with them. I keep thinking it has something to do with your yanking it out of gear without depressing the clutch. Maybe some switch got stuck? What is normal starting procedure on your tractor?

 

[D2Cat]

If you haven't opened up the fuel system by changing the filter or loosening any fittings you should not need to bleed they fuel system.

I'd guess the fuel is getting thick! The tractor was running fine, then gave up.

Others add Power Service 911 in the red container to get the fuel to flow. Your starter needs to be able to turn the engine over at about 200RPM for it to start. Be sure your battery is up to doing that.

If you have opened the fuel system, loosen the lines at the injectors a couple of turns, have the throttle on full power/on. Use the starter to turn the engine over is 15-20 second burst. Then wait 15-20 seconds before trying again to keep the starer from getting hot. This may take 5-6 attempts to get all the air out, but whenever the fuel has not air bubbles tighten that nut back down. Repeat on all the lines.

If you could get a kerosene/diesel fired "torpedo" heater out there to generate some heat your problem would be solved quicker. Set the heater facing the injection pump/fuel filter side (while in the back of your pickup) and a couple feet away from anything.

A few minutes of this and 'ole Nelly Belle will fire right up.

 

[sub subsistance farm]

alright! I got it started.

I need to explain why i mentioned bleeding better, I did have the filter out 5 days ago and so it was nagging on me, even though it did not really make sense as it has been running and starting fine since then, unless i did not have the filter glass band tight enough and it somehow got air in it, or insert paranoia based on extreme cold.

I went out just now to get the ewes in and since i was walking past it, i decided i might as well try the darn tractor again.

I counted and cycled the glow plugs 20 times, letting the light come on and shut of, then doing it again. it sputtered and started when i cheated at the starter.

So, that solves that end of things, extreme cold required more dedication to the glow plugs. I still need to solve why the key wont work, i tried another fuse in the key start slot, nada.

at least i can get it moving to get the girls fed and clear snow.

To be true i have not read yalls posts yet, i just got in and wanted to let yall know that it was the plugs. I'll be back on later once i get the human folks fed and in bed, and the other chores done.

 

[sub subsistance farm]

Before bleeding any lines that seemed to be working fine before it stalled, double triple check any levers etc that may have safety switches associated with them. I keep thinking it has something to do with your yanking it out of gear without depressing the clutch. Maybe some switch got stuck? What is normal starting procedure on your tractor?

see my above post, i did get it started this time cheating the starter and cycling the glow plugs repeatedly.

I think you are right in that i must have done something upon yanking it out of gear, with it off, without depressing the "clutch" pedal. I still need to figure out that part, but at least i can use it. I should of been more reasonable with it, but i was out of it and really should not have been on the tractor to be honest.

Usually when i start it, i make sure the throttle is all the way down, push the "clutch" in, make sure it is out of gear and turn the key to the on position, wait for the glow plug light to turn off and then turn it start. I usually never touch the choke, ever.

I kinda figured the glow plugs shut off was based on temp, not time, but that must not be the case.

I am going to wire up a neutral safety bypass toggle tomorrow, at least for now. I really need to finish getting the roof on the barn before i get back to this if i can get it to run safely. for what it is worth, neutral starting has always been fiddly on this thing, i have never spent the time to find, nor adjust the switch/switches. I probably should do that.

 

[sub subsistance farm]

If you haven't opened up the fuel system by changing the filter or loosening any fittings you should not need to bleed they fuel system.

I'd guess the fuel is getting thick! The tractor was running fine, then gave up.

Others add Power Service 911 in the red container to get the fuel to flow. Your starter needs to be able to turn the engine over at about 200RPM for it to start. Be sure your battery is up to doing that.

If you have opened the fuel system, loosen the lines at the injectors a couple of turns, have the throttle on full power/on. Use the starter to turn the engine over is 15-20 second burst. Then wait 15-20 seconds before trying again to keep the starer from getting hot. This may take 5-6 attempts to get all the air out, but whenever the fuel has not air bubbles tighten that nut back down. Repeat on all the lines.

If you could get a kerosene/diesel fired "torpedo" heater out there to generate some heat your problem would be solved quicker. Set the heater facing the injection pump/fuel filter side (while in the back of your pickup) and a couple feet away from anything.

A few minutes of this and 'ole Nelly Belle will fire right up.

Thankyou, i did bleed it less than a week ago after i had the filter off and it had ran fine since, i just was paranoid. I will look into the "torpedo" and the 911 stuff.

The starter seemed to be turning the crank at the usual rate, and bat seemed very strong. it was pretty happy once cheating the safety and repeatedly cycling the glow plugs. i assumed the plugs would cycle based on temp and never really payed attention to the fact that they cut off at the same interval every time.
again, thankyou.

 

[D2Cat]

SS Farm you said, "Usually when i start it, i make sure the throttle is all the way down, push the "clutch" in, make sure it is out of gear and turn the key to the on position, wait for the glow plug light to turn off and then turn it start. I usually never touch the choke, ever."

Does your tractor have a choke? Never seen a choke on a diesel engine.

Your tractor may start quicker if you didn't have the throttle all the way down. Give it some fuel.