L3302 REAR REMOTE

[midironman]

Rear Remote

I have a L3302 with Land Pride 3rd Function. Does anyone make a rear remote kit that includes just a bracket, and hoses with connectors and quick disconnects that would connect directly to my 3rd function valve? I just want to have it available when needed for a hydraulic top link etc. I would just disconnect the 3rd function hoses from the valve that run up the FEL for my grapple and then connect the rear remote hoses to the valve. My plan is to switch between the two. Not ideal I know, but I think it would work in a pinch.

 

[Russell King]

Why use the third function valve? Why not come off the FEL valve power beyond port to hook up the rear remotes? You might have to make the third function become first before the FEL valve (if I recall how they hook up correctly).

 

[old and tired]

1. Can you precisely feather your grapple close and open with your 3rd function? - If you can (since you need to do that for a toplink), just buy a 1/4" hydraulic hose to run it to the rear.​

 

[midironman]

Why use the third function valve? Why not come off the FEL valve power beyond port to hook up the rear remotes? You might have to make the third function become first before the FEL valve (if I recall how they hook up correctly).

Yeah, your way works great and gives true simultaneous use, but it costs 3-5 times more money and adds another valve I have to find a place for, if I understand you correctly. I'm a first tractor owner here and learning my way around! (and trying to reduce cost!) Since I'm probably going to use a hydraulic top link or a different attachment every once in a while, I’m fine swapping two quick-couplers in 30 seconds if you think it's feasible?

 

[midironman]

1. Can you precisely feather your grapple close and open with your 3rd function? - If you can (since you need to do that for a toplink), just buy a 1/4" hydraulic hose to run it to the rear.​

Yes, I can feather the grapple fine. I think you're saying to run a couple hoses from the 3rd function front coupler to the rear? I was thinking the added length would negatively effect the hydraulic pressure? I know my 33hp doesn't have the strongest hydraulic unit.

 

[Russell King]

Yes you can just use the existing valve and longer hoses to control the rear hydraulic cylinder(s). I guess I would just use long hoses connected normally at the cylinder with a disconnect at the third function valve. Then have disconnects at the grapple hoses so it is easy to swap when you need to.

I have no idea how you would route the hoses but I think you need to keep them inside the rear fenders to keep them protected.

 

[old and tired]

Yes, I can feather the grapple fine. I think you're saying to run a couple hoses from the 3rd function front coupler to the rear? I was thinking the added length would negatively effect the hydraulic pressure? I know my 33hp doesn't have the strongest hydraulic unit.

I can disconnect my grapple and use the same hose to connect to something in the rear. I don't have it where the hoses are connected to the loader, they are just draped over the front tube.

 

[midironman]

I have no idea how you would route the hoses but I think you need to keep them inside the rear fenders to keep them protected.

Yes, looks like I can run them under and to the right of the seat and maybe just cap them and let them hang out there. Appreciate your help.

 

[midironman]

I can disconnect my grapple and use the same hose to connect to something in the rear. I don't have it where the hoses are connected to the loader, they are just draped over the front tube.

Ok, got it. That sounds like a good idea. I could just pull off the existing hose clamps on the loader and secure the hoses using something more temporary. So when I need hydraulics in the rear, I can just disconnect and flop the hoses over to the rear.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Rear Remote

T have a L3302 with Land Pride 3rd Function. Does anyone make a rear remote kit that includes just a bracket, nt hoses with connectors and quick and add would connect directly to my 3rd function valve? I just want to have it available when needed for hydraulic top link etc. I t loo disconnect the 3rd function hoses t the valve that run up the FEL for my grapple and then connect the rear remote hoses to the valve. My plan is to switch between the two. Not ideal I know, but I y it would work in a pinch.

Right idea but wrong plumbing. You connect it to the power beyond loop at your 3rd function and it works just like factory remotes. Always connected and ready to use.

EZ-PZ Kubota Tractor Remotes

An affordable easy to install auxiliary valve kit customized to fit L01 and L02 series tractors. No hydraulic expertise required and kit can be installed in about 30 minutes.

windyridgefarm.us

Dan

 

[Chanceywd]

Ok, got it. That sounds like a good idea. I could just pull off the existing hose clamps on the loader and secure the hoses using something more temporary. So when I need hydraulics in the rear, I can just disconnect and flop the hoses over to the rear.

I teed the outputs of the third function valve running a pair to the front for the grapple and a pair to the rear.
I use that set to angle my rear blade or rake when needed.

I never use both at once but if the grapple was mounted I could just disconnect those hoses.
I also use the rear pair for my BH77 thumb and just paralleled the switch contacts to the back too.

 

[Winkles_9]

I teed the outputs of the third function valve running a pair to the front for the grapple and a pair to the rear.
I use that set to angle my rear blade or rake when needed.

I never use both at once but if the grapple was mounted I could just disconnect those hoses.
I also use the rear pair for my BH77 thumb and just paralleled the switch contacts to the back too.

I did the exact same thing. Works great on my L3301. I found the correct fitting off the top of the third function block and teed the hoses back to couplers mounted in the rear. I put shut off valves before the remotes in the rear so I can shut them off when I have the top link hooked up, but want to use the grapple.

 

[Russell King]

@midironman
While you probably already know this I just want to be sure you know to use hydraulic fittings and not pipe fittings if you add any tees to your current system.

Most of the valve connections are port connections and won’t require any sealant but will use a sealing washer or o-ring. They could be metric or SAE threads. There are also some threaded ports on the tractor that are DIN G (BSPP) parallel threads. Take the existing plug or fitting out and figure out what thread is there or take the part to a hydraulic fitting store to get a matching thread and seal.

I avoid NPT threads as much as possible but for some reason most quick disconnects use NPT. You can find other port type threaded quick disconnects (metric or SAE) but you may have to order them and spend more money.

For hose ends try to use JIC swivel ends to connect to the fittings so most fittings are also adapting one thread to another type. It is a bit tedious at times but you can see good examples of fittings and connections in TheOldHokie’s link and Winkles_9‘s post.

Good luck and I still recommend going ahead and investing in a rear remote valve (but that would be a few hundred dollars extra!).

 

[TheOldHokie]

Good luck and I still recommend going ahead and investing in a rear remote valve (but that would be a few hundred dollars extra!).

I think a rear valve is probably cheaper and certainly far more convenient.

Dan

 

[Chanceywd]

@midironman
While you probably already know this I just want to be sure you know to use hydraulic fittings and not pipe fittings if you add any tees to your current system.

Most of the valve connections are port connections and won’t require any sealant but will use a sealing washer or o-ring. They could be metric or SAE threads. There are also some threaded ports on the tractor that are DIN G (BSPP) parallel threads. Take the existing plug or fitting out and figure out what thread is there or take the part to a hydraulic fitting store to get a matching thread and seal.

I avoid NPT threads as much as possible but for some reason most quick disconnects use NPT. You can find other port type threaded quick disconnects (metric or SAE) but you may have to order them and spend more money.

For hose ends try to use JIC swivel ends to connect to the fittings so most fittings are also adapting one thread to another type. It is a bit tedious at times but you can see good examples of fittings and connections in TheOldHokie’s link and Winkles_9‘s post.

Good luck and I still recommend going ahead and investing in a rear remote valve (but that would be a few hundred dollars extra!).

I added a 2 spool valve too and that controls my top and tilt. This lets me change the angle left and right of a blade or the rake.

 

[Chanceywd]

I did the exact same thing. Works great on my L3301. I found the correct fitting off the top of the third function block and teed the hoses back to couplers mounted in the rear. I put shut off valves before the remotes in the rear so I can shut them off when I have the top link hooked up, but want to use the grapple.

View attachment 166389 View attachment 166388

Mine is similar!