I have an L3301 with about 200 hrs. I was bush hogging when a warning light came on the dash with code P0335. I stopped the tractor and turned it off and now it will not start. I tried clearing the code but it comes right back when I try to start the tractor. I tried letting it sit for a day. Disconnecting the battery and ensuring I have fuel flow to the filter housing. It still will not start.
L3301 will not start code P0335
- Thread starter Thughett
- Start date
P0335 is a crankshaft position sensor circuit code.
Im not familiar with your tractor, but I would look in this area for damaged wiring.
Here is a link to a free workshop manual for your tractor
It doesn’t have the diagnosis manual though, as referenced in the screenshot I posted.
I think I recall some L3301/3901 owners having a p0336 set after stalling their tractors, there might have been a Kubota bulletin? I didn’t search here for it, but recall the code issue. Doesn’t sound like that is your issue though. I don’t deal with tractors, and know their codes don’t directly correspond to automotive codes, but think they are close. P0335 is a circuit issue code, P0336 can be circuit or condition code, thats why I would be looking at a wiring issue. And it happened while bush hogging…any chance you ran something over with the tractor that could have come up and hit the tractor?
Hopefully one of the Kubota techs here can maybe give you more model specific repair help.
Here's some interesting tidbits to ponder on.
The WSM doesn't give much information on DTC's. It tells you what they mean (for the most part) but that's about it. In order to get the accurate diagnosis you need the diagnosis manual-which is built into the diagnostic software. You can't get access to that unless you're a dealer or know someone at a dealer. One of many gripes about Kubota.
P0335 and P0336 are similar but not the same. And-to add insult to injury the diagnosis manual included in the software actually lists 335 and 336 as different codes, contrary to the WSM.
With that said, if you had a 336 showing, the engine will still run. The programming is such that if there is a fault with the crank sensor, the system will default to reading the cam sensor only. It doesn't run great but it will run enough to work. Regeneration is affected too. 335? LOL. WSM says check the sensor and check the wiring. But I know from experience that if you unplug the sensor the engine will still run, so then you get to go into the diag manual and read up on 335 which is different, and that's different than the WSM. Confusing enough? You can thank the engineers for this.
Even as a (now former) tech I hated the way they did certain things and this was one of the many. Basically all you can do is check the sensor and wiring visually and with a digital volt-ohm meter, and that is the extent of your available testing. In order to properly diagnose you need the proper hardware and software--again Kubota dealer only stuff. If you had access to that, you could go into the ecu, read all of the trouble codes. Let's say you also had a P0606 with a P0336. I'd be looking at all of the connections first. If you had 335 with some can line communication codes, wiring and/or ecu would be my best guess. Use of all of the available information is what is best, and we (tractor owners and operators) don't have access to all of it.
It's been argued that the codes are standard OBD2 codes and that is true. BUT.....if you know anything about OBD2, differnet manufacturers sometimes use different nomenclature which strays from "standard"--and therein lies the big issue with this particular code.
The WSM doesn't give much information on DTC's. It tells you what they mean (for the most part) but that's about it. In order to get the accurate diagnosis you need the diagnosis manual-which is built into the diagnostic software. You can't get access to that unless you're a dealer or know someone at a dealer. One of many gripes about Kubota.
P0335 and P0336 are similar but not the same. And-to add insult to injury the diagnosis manual included in the software actually lists 335 and 336 as different codes, contrary to the WSM.
With that said, if you had a 336 showing, the engine will still run. The programming is such that if there is a fault with the crank sensor, the system will default to reading the cam sensor only. It doesn't run great but it will run enough to work. Regeneration is affected too. 335? LOL. WSM says check the sensor and check the wiring. But I know from experience that if you unplug the sensor the engine will still run, so then you get to go into the diag manual and read up on 335 which is different, and that's different than the WSM. Confusing enough? You can thank the engineers for this.
Even as a (now former) tech I hated the way they did certain things and this was one of the many. Basically all you can do is check the sensor and wiring visually and with a digital volt-ohm meter, and that is the extent of your available testing. In order to properly diagnose you need the proper hardware and software--again Kubota dealer only stuff. If you had access to that, you could go into the ecu, read all of the trouble codes. Let's say you also had a P0606 with a P0336. I'd be looking at all of the connections first. If you had 335 with some can line communication codes, wiring and/or ecu would be my best guess. Use of all of the available information is what is best, and we (tractor owners and operators) don't have access to all of it.
It's been argued that the codes are standard OBD2 codes and that is true. BUT.....if you know anything about OBD2, differnet manufacturers sometimes use different nomenclature which strays from "standard"--and therein lies the big issue with this particular code.
You nailed it. Sure enough the wires going into the sensor were ripped out. I must have caught it on something.
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
So are the wires the sensor wires or tractor wires. I just paid for having the crank shaft and camshaft sensors on my truck replaced by a shop but they are fairly simple bolt in parts that on a road vehicle are difficult to get to. But yours sounds like it is in the open.
Do you intend to repair this yourself.?
I do. The wires were pulled from the plug attached to the harness on the side that plugs into the sensor. It is in a tight spot because I have a front loader but I can get to it.