2017 L3301 HST 430hrs bought used with 350hrs in Nov '21
It has been a day or two since last use. I came out to use it turned the key and saw that all dash lights were normal, but no crank. Swapped for new battery I had waiting for another project... still no love so I came here to search for answers, found many so I tried them all.
HST sensor tested good (even adjusted it closer).
PTO sensor tested good.
Seat sensor tested good.
I even checked continuity of incoming connector when I turned the key on and start.
after each check I tried to start again, same story.
So I figured its time to chase down wiring issues to starter -----
key switch tested good (don't think is OEM based on WSM diagrams)
Swapped location of starter and engine relays, still no start.
Tested both starter and engine relays - at position 1&2 they tested good? book says: "about 120 ohms" really whats the threshold?
one tested at 108 the other at 140 and slowly dropped to 135... so good?.
Both clicked when power applied and had continuity between 3&4.
I put them back, at this point I don't remember which was where. Start attempt again.. and it started.
turned off and tried again 4 times... YEAH!.. sorta.. what was the problem?
At this point I am going to replace the relays anyway since they are so far off from 120.
My main question is; does it seem like I may still have an electrical gremlin or did the direct battery voltage "unstick" the relays for now.
some related history---
Dash LCD is dead so no codes to read, using a "mechanical" Hour meter.
Last week battery cracked and leaked everywhere (i am assuming from being slightly cracked and then froze).
Always starts within one or two compressions, and runs great.
I live on and work the tractor in rocky terrain so its quite likely there is a loose wire somewhere. I didnt remove steering wheel so I havent inspected behind the dash shroud yet, that was to be my next step.
Thanks!
It has been a day or two since last use. I came out to use it turned the key and saw that all dash lights were normal, but no crank. Swapped for new battery I had waiting for another project... still no love so I came here to search for answers, found many so I tried them all.
HST sensor tested good (even adjusted it closer).
PTO sensor tested good.
Seat sensor tested good.
I even checked continuity of incoming connector when I turned the key on and start.
after each check I tried to start again, same story.
So I figured its time to chase down wiring issues to starter -----
key switch tested good (don't think is OEM based on WSM diagrams)
Swapped location of starter and engine relays, still no start.
Tested both starter and engine relays - at position 1&2 they tested good? book says: "about 120 ohms" really whats the threshold?
one tested at 108 the other at 140 and slowly dropped to 135... so good?.
Both clicked when power applied and had continuity between 3&4.
I put them back, at this point I don't remember which was where. Start attempt again.. and it started.
turned off and tried again 4 times... YEAH!.. sorta.. what was the problem?
At this point I am going to replace the relays anyway since they are so far off from 120.
My main question is; does it seem like I may still have an electrical gremlin or did the direct battery voltage "unstick" the relays for now.
some related history---
Dash LCD is dead so no codes to read, using a "mechanical" Hour meter.
Last week battery cracked and leaked everywhere (i am assuming from being slightly cracked and then froze).
Always starts within one or two compressions, and runs great.
I live on and work the tractor in rocky terrain so its quite likely there is a loose wire somewhere. I didnt remove steering wheel so I havent inspected behind the dash shroud yet, that was to be my next step.
Thanks!
