L3301 HST quit running at idle

[MOOTS]

ONE MORE……..
It’s a bear getting the starter off. I can work around the loader, but there is some kind of either coolant, hydraulic or electrical conduit plumbing running right across the side next to it, terminating in a large nut in front of the hydraulic dip stick. I don’t want to remove this without knowing what is in it (such as pressure). Does anyone know what this tubing is? The WSM is not clear on this.

Got a picture?

 

[USGrant]

 

[USGrant]

 

[MOOTS]

That metal line is hydraulic. Rubber is coolant. Starter should come out without removing that line. May have to get creative with extensions and wobbles to remove bolts.

 

[USGrant]

Thanks, Moots. Might have to get an assist from someone with smaller hands.

 

[ruger1980]

You state the fuses are good. How did you check hem? Do you have 12v on both sides of all fuses? If you do you will probably have to check for power to the main and Eng. ECUs as well as the Intellipanel. Does the display work and are there any faults displayed?
If the 40 amp fuses was blown you must have had a very heavy load or a short circuit in the cable from the 40A fuse to the fuse box, stater relay, ign. switch or hazard unit. All of the other circuits are protected by smaller fuses. I would be looking at the harness from the 40A fuse to the fuse box and behind the dash for evidence of a short to ground.

 

[USGrant]

Please do tell us the final fix when your issue is resolved. I have a L3301 with 475 hrs and have never had any problems, thankfully so far.
I will print your fix and file in my book for future reference.
rr

Gentlemen (I don’t think there are any ladies on this thread),
I received my starter way early and was able to replace it today. Problem is resolved. Bench tested the old one and it is shot. Will do a post-mortem on it later today to see what might have failed.
Some observations:
This forum is excellent. I really appreciate all the advice.
As the starter and installation is expensive, time-consuming and frustrating (I lost about half my Christianity on this), much troubleshooting preceded the final fix.
Installing a new starter is made difficult by the hydraulic “plumbing” running alongside the location, as well as wires in flexible conduit, and the fact that you cannot see the bolt behind the starter.
Bolt holes are roughly at 5 and 11 o’clock. Bottom one uses a bolt going into a threaded hole; for the top one (which is out of sight), the engine block has a stud that goes through the upper hole of the starter yoke. Your ratchet extenders obviously can’t feel a thing, and likely your hands are too big to get back there, so it’s hit or miss, but so is getting the socket around d the nut to remove the old one.
Grease the stud with locktite; put some plumber’s putty in the socket to keep the nut from falling out while you defy the laws of probability and statistics to get the nut fastened back on. It’s just a matter of fishing around back there and cussing a little.
Voilà.
looking forward to the autopsy on the olde starter. Very curious as to why a factory starter on a 5 year old tractor would fail.
As far as troubleshooting safety switches goes, don’t forget to reconnect any you have bypassed for a valid test. Also, there is a way to check them using the onboard module. Found out after I had done it the old fashion way with my tester.
Finally, and again, thank you to all who offered advice. Painstaking as it was, I learned a lot.
D

 

[Ktrim]

Magnetic extensions.

 

[USGrant]

Magnetic extensions.

Yes, gotta get me some. It’s like an arms race in my shop, only I’m competing against myself….

 

[Ktrim]

Engineers don't care about us having to work around their poor designs when having to change parts. So other other Engineers develop tools to help. I think it's all a conspiracy

 

[retired farmer]

Gentlemen (I don’t think there are any ladies on this thread),
I received my starter way early and was able to replace it today. Problem is resolved. Bench tested the old one and it is shot. Will do a post-mortem on it later today to see what might have failed.
Some observations:
This forum is excellent. I really appreciate all the advice.
As the starter and installation is expensive, time-consuming and frustrating (I lost about half my Christianity on this), much troubleshooting preceded the final fix.
Installing a new starter is made difficult by the hydraulic “plumbing” running alongside the location, as well as wires in flexible conduit, and the fact that you cannot see the bolt behind the starter.
Bolt holes are roughly at 5 and 11 o’clock. Bottom one uses a bolt going into a threaded hole; for the top one (which is out of sight), the engine block has a stud that goes through the upper hole of the starter yoke. Your ratchet extenders obviously can’t feel a thing, and likely your hands are too big to get back there, so it’s hit or miss, but so is getting the socket around d the nut to remove the old one.
Grease the stud with locktite; put some plumber’s putty in the socket to keep the nut from falling out while you defy the laws of probability and statistics to get the nut fastened back on. It’s just a matter of fishing around back there and cussing a little.
Voilà.
looking forward to the autopsy on the olde starter. Very curious as to why a factory starter on a 5 year old tractor would fail.
As far as troubleshooting safety switches goes, don’t forget to reconnect any you have bypassed for a valid test. Also, there is a way to check them using the onboard module. Found out after I had done it the old fashion way with my tester.
Finally, and again, thank you to all who offered advice. Painstaking as it was, I learned a lot.
D

Thanks for telling us the final fix.
I have a 4os model Farmall tractor that the starter quit but is was a simple as removing two bolts and easy to get at. It also bench tested good but it wasn't good. Finally got my neve up, tore into it and found the problem. It wa;s

Gentlemen (I don’t think there are any ladies on this thread),
I received my starter way early and was able to replace it today. Problem is resolved. Bench tested the old one and it is shot. Will do a post-mortem on it later today to see what might have failed.
Some observations:
This forum is excellent. I really appreciate all the advice.
As the starter and installation is expensive, time-consuming and frustrating (I lost about half my Christianity on this), much troubleshooting preceded the final fix.
Installing a new starter is made difficult by the hydraulic “plumbing” running alongside the location, as well as wires in flexible conduit, and the fact that you cannot see the bolt behind the starter.
Bolt holes are roughly at 5 and 11 o’clock. Bottom one uses a bolt going into a threaded hole; for the top one (which is out of sight), the engine block has a stud that goes through the upper hole of the starter yoke. Your ratchet extenders obviously can’t feel a thing, and likely your hands are too big to get back there, so it’s hit or miss, but so is getting the socket around d the nut to remove the old one.
Grease the stud with locktite; put some plumber’s putty in the socket to keep the nut from falling out while you defy the laws of probability and statistics to get the nut fastened back on. It’s just a matter of fishing around back there and cussing a little.
Voilà.
looking forward to the autopsy on the olde starter. Very curious as to why a factory starter on a 5 year old tractor would fail.
As far as troubleshooting safety switches goes, don’t forget to reconnect any you have bypassed for a valid test. Also, there is a way to check them using the onboard module. Found out after I had done it the old fashion way with my tester.
Finally, and again, thank you to all who offered advice. Painstaking as it was, I learned a lot.
D

Thanks for getting back with the fix.
Had a similar problem with a starter on an old 40s Farmall Tractor. Finally got my nerve up and took it off and bench tested and it showed to be good but it was not good. I tore into it and found the problem and fixed it. Only had two bolts to remove to get the started off, easy peezy compaired to your ordeal. Glad it worked out for you and am awaiting to autopsy outcome.
By the way, if ever a Christian, it's sealed by the Holy Spirit according to the Good Book.

 

[USGrant]

Thanks for telling us the final fix.
I have a 4os model Farmall tractor that the starter quit but is was a simple as removing two bolts and easy to get at. It also bench tested good but it wasn't good. Finally got my neve up, tore into it and found the problem. It wa;s

Thanks for getting back with the fix.
Had a similar problem with a starter on an old 40s Farmall Tractor. Finally got my nerve up and took it off and bench tested and it showed to be good but it was not good. I tore into it and found the problem and fixed it. Only had two bolts to remove to get the started off, easy peezy compaired to your ordeal. Glad it worked out for you and am awaiting to autopsy outcome.
By the way, if ever a Christian, it's sealed by the Holy Spirit according to the Good Book.

Regarding your last paragraph, my previous comment you refer to was merely a figure of speech, a bit of humor, and though I could respond further to yours, I’ll just thank you and say this is not the forum for serious religious discussion.