L3301 adding top and tilt? (already have remote)

minthral

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Kubota L47
Nov 22, 2021
194
96
28
NC
Anyone know what parts I need to add hydraulic top and tilt cylinders for the stock L series hitch?

I did some research and there’s kits out there, but they’re adding hydraulics etc. I just need the cylinders and hoses to connect to my remotes.
 

RalphVa

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Jan 19, 2020
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I went through this in looking to get TnT on the new B2601. Fit Right is one outfit that makes cylinders and lines. They're 34 weeks out on delivery.

Inquire/look around different forums, and you might score some used ones. Some have.
 

MOOTS

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Anyone know what parts I need to add hydraulic top and tilt cylinders for the stock L series hitch?

I did some research and there’s kits out there, but they’re adding hydraulics etc. I just need the cylinders and hoses to connect to my remotes.
You need a top cylinder with throw that is close to your factory top link measurements, 2” would be fine. And 2 hoses that will connect to said cylinder, about 18” long depending where your remotes are mounted. And 2 couplers to attach to your remotes.

Tilt would be the same, but with the clevis that attaches to lift arm.

Www.agrisupply.com
Www.Surpluscenter.com
Www.Agristoreusa.com will have what you need.
 
Last edited:

jyoutz

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MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
Jan 14, 2019
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Anyone know what parts I need to add hydraulic top and tilt cylinders for the stock L series hitch?

I did some research and there’s kits out there, but they’re adding hydraulics etc. I just need the cylinders and hoses to connect to my remotes.
I was in Tractor Supply yesterday. They had a lot of hydraulic cylinders of various sizes in stock.
 

Tropical Jack

Active member

Equipment
Kubota L3301 w/ FEL & BH, tilt and trim, chipper, box blade, grading blade
Hi minthral,

I also have an L3301. I added 3 remotes that I mounted to the ROPS.

I got my top link cylinder from Agri Supply (apart # 90599). It has worked very well for me. When I added Pat’s quick hitch, I had to make up an extension because it was too short after extending the lift arm attachment points.

I got my side link cylinder through Amazon. It was SLH01. Not sure if this cylinder is presently available from Amazon. Hoses and quick disconnects can be sourced locally, or ordered on line.

Jack

Western NC
 

minthral

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Equipment
Kubota L47
Nov 22, 2021
194
96
28
NC
Hi minthral,

I also have an L3301. I added 3 remotes that I mounted to the ROPS.

I got my top link cylinder from Agri Supply (apart # 90599). It has worked very well for me. When I added Pat’s quick hitch, I had to make up an extension because it was too short after extending the lift arm attachment points.

I got my side link cylinder through Amazon. It was SLH01. Not sure if this cylinder is presently available from Amazon. Hoses and quick disconnects can be sourced locally, or ordered on line.

Jack

Western NC
Awesome thanks for the info/ part numbers!

How did you extend the top link? I have pat's quick hitch on order.
 

Tropical Jack

Active member

Equipment
Kubota L3301 w/ FEL & BH, tilt and trim, chipper, box blade, grading blade
I fabricated an extension that attaches to the tractor where the top link normally is pinned. Easier to take a picture than explain. I will take a picture later today, and post.
 

Tropical Jack

Active member

Equipment
Kubota L3301 w/ FEL & BH, tilt and trim, chipper, box blade, grading blade
Here are some pictures of my valves for rear remotes, top and tilt cylinders, and the extension that I fabricated to make up for the extra length of my Pat’s quick hitch.
My welding skills are mediocre, but improving!
101D4D49-0533-47E6-B0A4-713AE9DBDD31.jpeg
73110E51-1340-45FB-A723-070668780D96.jpeg
A6513134-7CC0-4A75-9137-7B862EC5CAD3.jpeg
 

minthral

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Equipment
Kubota L47
Nov 22, 2021
194
96
28
NC

Tropical Jack

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Equipment
Kubota L3301 w/ FEL & BH, tilt and trim, chipper, box blade, grading blade
Look at the last picture. I made an extension that is pinned to the tractor attachment point and then the top link is pinned to the extension. The top link cylinder is not changed; it just attaches to the extension making it effectively about 3” longer.
 

minthral

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Equipment
Kubota L47
Nov 22, 2021
194
96
28
NC
Look at the last picture. I made an extension that is pinned to the tractor attachment point and then the top link is pinned to the extension. The top link cylinder is not changed; it just attaches to the extension making it effectively about 3” longer.
Oh see it now... metal bracket inside the top link slots on the tractor to extend it. Makes sense. Thanks.
 

minthral

Active member

Equipment
Kubota L47
Nov 22, 2021
194
96
28
NC
Decided to go with this top link:


This hose kit (I measured and 24 inch hoses would be almost too short and 36 should be good):


They have this side link that should work based on me taking mine off and measuring:


It's out of stock atm. That's okay...I think top tilt is what's the most useful and side tilt can wait.

All the stuff is similar grey color as hitch. Based on research, made in the USA (remains to be seen when it arrives though).

There are other options out there with 6-12 month wait times. These 'custom fab solutions' come up easier on google search and I think are a magnet to novices who want a plug and play solution...I'm guilty of this too as I initially didn't sit down and figure things out.
 

Tropical Jack

Active member

Equipment
Kubota L3301 w/ FEL & BH, tilt and trim, chipper, box blade, grading blade
That is a little longer cylinder than the 90599 top link cylinder that I have. That should work OK with the Pat’s hitch (without needing an extension). I did not want the check valve on my cylinder, because I wanted to be able to float the top link cylinder.
You will definitely like having a hydraulic top link!

Jack
 

minthral

Active member

Equipment
Kubota L47
Nov 22, 2021
194
96
28
NC
That is a little longer cylinder than the 90599 top link cylinder that I have. That should work OK with the Pat’s hitch (without needing an extension). I did not want the check valve on my cylinder, because I wanted to be able to float the top link cylinder.
You will definitely like having a hydraulic top link!

Jack
Yep another reason I went with that one. It's a bit longer.

I got a detent and float valve. I haven't confirmed dealer did it correct, but I think the second one 'locks' into position, but the first doesn't. Hmm...check valve wont work with float?
 

Tropical Jack

Active member

Equipment
Kubota L3301 w/ FEL & BH, tilt and trim, chipper, box blade, grading blade
Float will not work with check valve attached. Like “old and tired” says, some like it. The cylinder does not creep. I like the float feature on my valves. I use float in the top link when mowing. Also use it when grading the driveway and our community roads at times. We have extreme slopes where I live in the mountains. It can be helpful. Down side is that cylinders without check valves can and will creep down under weight. From what I understand, the high quality cylinders custom made by Fitritehydraulics do not creep. I would not have minded paying more for them, but the lead time was beyond my patience limit.

Jack
 

TheOldHokie

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windyridgefarm.us
Float will not work with check valve attached. Like “old and tired” says, some like it. The cylinder does not creep. I like the float feature on my valves. I use float in the top link when mowing. Also use it when grading the driveway and our community roads at times. We have extreme slopes where I live in the mountains. It can be helpful. Down side is that cylinders without check valves can and will creep down under weight. From what I understand, the high quality cylinders custom made by Fitritehydraulics do not creep. I would not have minded paying more for them, but the lead time was beyond my patience limit.

Jack
It is not the quality of the cylinder that is the problem - it is the quality of the control valve. The primary cause of cylinder creep is spool leakage back through the valve. All spool valves suffer from spool leakage due to the basic nature of the design, Valve catalog specifications usually include the leakage rate and generally speaking you can expect something in the neighborhood of 3-10 cc/minute leakage @ 1450 PSI (100 bar) in a commodity spool valve.

The pilot operated check valve is a pair of "zero leakage" check valves inside a common body that is installed directly on the cylinder. It seals both cylinder ports and isolates them from the spool. The check valves are opened by a pilot pressure imbalance when the spool in the directional control valve is shifted out of neutral to actuate a cylinder. Shifting a spool to a float position will not produce the pilot pressure needed to open the check valves and the cylinder will remain hydraulically locked - e.g. will not float.

Dan
 

minthral

Active member

Equipment
Kubota L47
Nov 22, 2021
194
96
28
NC
Man just when I thought I got it all figured out, I learned something new.

I called agristore just now and the lady who answered was super helpful. Yea float definitely wont work, though I can remove the check valve by unscrewing the top bar/ connections to cylinder on each end, then put the hose directly to the cylinder.

Thinking through it, there are some situations where you want float and some where you don't...for box blade work I think a lot of time you want it set and not drift. For example, if you want to slowly drop dirt with a small gap, it's going to be a pain if it slowly drops or jumps when you hit something... If you're using a mower deck, you'd want it to float a lot.

In addition to the check valve, their cylinder design makes it less prone to moving. There are other cylinders out there designed for more easy movement for float.

It's a bit of a mixed bag and it's a shame you can't have it both ways...seems like you want both a float and non-float cylinder available.

Also found out agristore gets their tilt and top link cylinders made in Italy factory.