After warming up our L3300, we went to put it in gear and it died. Went to crank it back up and all it did was turn over. Sounded like it wanted to start, but wouldn't catch. We checked the fuel and changed the filter just to make sure it wasn't a restriction or dirty filter. Fuel flow strong through the filter housing. We bled the bleeder valve and closed it back. Still not catching. I cracked the injector nuts at the top of the injector pump and the fuel barely trickled out the top of each line when the engine was turned over. Not a lot of experience with this tractor, so looking for next steps advice if anyone is up for another challange.
L3300 Stopped Running, trys to crank, but will not run
- Thread starter rich_smith
- Start date
85Hokie
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We had the pedal down all the way, and it was barely dribbling out each of the injector lines. The engine turned over normal but would not catch.
North Idaho Wolfman
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You need to verify your getting fuel to the injection pump.
Remove this line and make sure you get good pulsed fuel flow.
Remove this line and make sure you get good pulsed fuel flow.
I did check that we do have fuel coming up out of the bleeder hose. We removed the hose and crush washer and fuel was flowing.
Side note, we replaced the fuel shut off solenoid and this did not help as well.
We did get some smoking from the negative battery cable at the terminal when we were trying to start the engine, which is making me think there may be a short or bad ground as well. we are replacing the cable, battery and making sure there is a solid grounding point on the tractor this weekend.
Then i believe we will be chasing the short down as well.
Side note, we replaced the fuel shut off solenoid and this did not help as well.
We did get some smoking from the negative battery cable at the terminal when we were trying to start the engine, which is making me think there may be a short or bad ground as well. we are replacing the cable, battery and making sure there is a solid grounding point on the tractor this weekend.
Then i believe we will be chasing the short down as well.
North Idaho Wolfman
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fried1765
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Oh NO!
Bypassing the seat switch is VERY dangerous!
(I would have even bypassed any such switch on my tricycle, if it had one.....80 years ago?)
North Idaho Wolfman
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Carefully remove all the injector lines off of the Injection pump (Do Not turn the delivery valve holders) and then set throttle to high and crank engine.
Should get ~3 inch fountains of fuel.
If you don't you either have the stop rod pulled under the dash, the fuel stop solenoid is engaging (try disconnecting the wire, you have junk in the injection pump, or you have damage to something in the governor (FYI In many years I've only ever seen that one time where a spring had broken, so very RARE)
Should get ~3 inch fountains of fuel.
If you don't you either have the stop rod pulled under the dash, the fuel stop solenoid is engaging (try disconnecting the wire, you have junk in the injection pump, or you have damage to something in the governor (FYI In many years I've only ever seen that one time where a spring had broken, so very RARE)
With the throttle up to max and the new battery and ground installed, I broke open the fuel lines from the top of the pump. All three outlets were squirting jets about 2 1/2" high, so it looks like the pump is working well. The battery died real quick, which is a whole other concern. We have it on charge and will bleed out the lines to the injectors next. We checked the fuses and the only one that was blown was the headlight fuse. is there information on testing glow plugs and injectors out there?
North Idaho Wolfman
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The WSM covers testing the Glow plugs.
The injectors would need to be sent out to be tested.
But I highly doubt that either is your issue.
As neither would have caused it to just die.
I have a suspicion that it sucked in air and either you have bad fuel lines, bad fuel flow, or a fuel solenoid that is failing.
Crack the Injector lines at the injectors and bleed the air out of the lines.
The injectors would need to be sent out to be tested.
But I highly doubt that either is your issue.
As neither would have caused it to just die.
I have a suspicion that it sucked in air and either you have bad fuel lines, bad fuel flow, or a fuel solenoid that is failing.
Crack the Injector lines at the injectors and bleed the air out of the lines.
Thank you so much, this is great!
I will crack at the injectors and bleed the rest of the air out, as i am sure there is air in there now.
It is strange how the tractor was idling normal and then once we put it in gear, it just stopped and would not crank over. it would spin, but not catch. I will check back and let you know what i find. The mystery continues!
I will crack at the injectors and bleed the rest of the air out, as i am sure there is air in there now.
It is strange how the tractor was idling normal and then once we put it in gear, it just stopped and would not crank over. it would spin, but not catch. I will check back and let you know what i find. The mystery continues!
North Idaho Wolfman
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That is the scenario I betting on a solenoid or a key stop timer issue.
So the way that system works is that if the power is lost to the key stop timer it stops.
Disconnect the stop solenoid when you are trying to get it to run then return it back to service and if you still have issues it's very likely one of those 2 things.
Just a month ago I needed to deal with my L3450 because the stop solenoid would randomly trigger and shut it down, it would even do it while trying to start it.
It was a quick ignition switch fix.