L3240 HST - No dash lights/won't start

[churchtech]

I have an L3240 that has seen lots of Central Texas ground over the past 5 years and I have made quite a few repairs on it as well. This one has me stumped.

Yesterday, I was using my rake on the tractor for my last cut of the hay season. I stopped to go get some coffee and take a small break for an hour. I returned and got in the tractor seat, turned the switch and nothing happened. I did try several times. I checked switches, PTO switch, seat switch, just anything I could remember that could affect the starting part.

I got out my DVM to start checking voltage (13.1 VDC) & also do continuity checks on fuses. The battery is about 4 months old. I checked the fuses under the left side of the dash and on the bracket underneath the air filter in the engine compartment. There was one on the left side in the engine compartment that I wasn't sure if it was a fuse or link and I didn't know how to get it out/off. I did think to use a brush to clean the dust and dirt out of the fuse panel connections.

The previous day, I noticed that when I had the PTO switch on, that the dash light didn't light up. And another time later in the day, the engine started, but then the dash indicator lights went dead. I turned the key off and then back on and it was fine.

At this point in time, I am thinking it is either the ignition switch or the key has worn down from overuse. Am I missing something obvious?

Thanks in advance -- David

 

[Bulldog]

My first thought is to take the battery cables off and clean them real good. Also check the ground to make sure it's in good shape.

My 9000 did the exact same thing shortly after a new battery install and it was the cables and battery post.

 

[churchtech]

Well the strange thing is.... I went over to the barn today, got up in the tractor seat, clicked the key to on, and all the dash lights lit up. It started just fine too, like there had never been a problem.

Since I had it running, I took it closer to the air compressor at the barn and gave it a good air-cleaning including fuse boxes.

But I hear what you are saying 'Bulldog', because at one point yesterday, I thought about taking the cables off the battery terminals and cleaning them. My brother-in-law was out today and suggested that I lightly grease the terminals to keep corrosion down. I guess I will do this after church tomorrow or before I bale hay on Monday.

Thanks.... David

 

[Bulldog]

Glad to hear it started acting right for you. I would still clean the cable ends and post just to make sure. At least that doesn't cost anything and it won't hurt anything either. I like to eliminate the easy the stuff first.

 

[Stubbyie]

After completely cleaning bright and shiny all four ends of both battery cables...

INSTEAD of using grease...

Make a thick (like peanut-butter) paste of baking soda and water and glop a big dab on each battery terminal. Let harden overnight.

Hose off once a year and do it again.

When reattaching your battery ground cable to chassis ground use a conductive grease-like material such as used by electricians--an anti-oxidant paste.

Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.

 

[Camper]

I have an L3240 that has seen lots of Central Texas ground over the past 5 years and I have made quite a few repairs on it as well. This one has me stumped.

Yesterday, I was using my rake on the tractor for my last cut of the hay season. I stopped to go get some coffee and take a small break for an hour. I returned and got in the tractor seat, turned the switch and nothing happened. I did try several times. I checked switches, PTO switch, seat switch, just anything I could remember that could affect the starting part.

I got out my DVM to start checking voltage (13.1 VDC) & also do continuity checks on fuses. The battery is about 4 months old. I checked the fuses under the left side of the dash and on the bracket underneath the air filter in the engine compartment. There was one on the left side in the engine compartment that I wasn't sure if it was a fuse or link and I didn't know how to get it out/off. I did think to use a brush to clean the dust and dirt out of the fuse panel connections.

The previous day, I noticed that when I had the PTO switch on, that the dash light didn't light up. And another time later in the day, the engine started, but then the dash indicator lights went dead. I turned the key off and then back on and it was fine.

At this point in time, I am thinking it is either the ignition switch or the key has worn down from overuse. Am I missing something obvious?

Thanks in advance -- David

I know this post is almost a year old but I have the same tractor, 2009 L3240, and the same problem? I have cleaned the battery terminals, and the batter sight glass is green - good.
When I tried starting this morning, the glow plug cycled normally and I turned the key to crank her over and everything went dead? I have checked the fuses and visually they all look fine. I have no dash panel indicators or anything. What am I missing?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

#1 also check the other end of the cables too, where the POS connects at the starter and where the NEG connects to the motor or frame.
Next if that doesn't work, Pull the battery out and take and have it load tested, most automotive parts stores can do it for you, the green eye is only an electrolyte level test it won't tell you if it's got a bad cell or plate.

 

[Camper]

#1 also check the other end of the cables too, where the POS connects at the starter and where the NEG connects to the motor or frame.
Next if that doesn't work, Pull the battery out and take and have it load tested, most automotive parts stores can do it for you, the green eye is only an electrolyte level test it won't tell you if it's got a bad cell or plate.

Thank you for your quick reply. I will check the frame and starter connections in the morning. I will also take your advice on load testing the battery. The way everything just died, my first thought was the main 50amp fuse blew. I will follow up after I get the battery tested. Hopefully, it will be with good news.

 

[Camper]

#1 also check the other end of the cables too, where the POS connects at the starter and where the NEG connects to the motor or frame.
Next if that doesn't work, Pull the battery out and take and have it load tested, most automotive parts stores can do it for you, the green eye is only an electrolyte level test it won't tell you if it's got a bad cell or plate.

Thanks again wolfman. Went to NAPA and they tested the battery and said it was good. So I cleaned the frame ground and hot to the starter - no difference. I tried jumping from my truck and got dash to work and it tried to turn over. Figured it must be the battery regardless of NAPA's results, and took it to the local Chevron station and it tested completely dead. I don't know what NAPA did wrong, but I put a new battery in, from Chevron, and tractor started no problem and works perfectly. Yes, I am a happy camper again.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Excellent to hear!

 

[Tooljunkie]

There are some battery testers-digital type will do a resistance test, using some sort of computer chip with an algorithym to calculate the specific gravity and..... Blah blah

I use my trusty carbon pile load tester, it has an analog meter
Voltage and amps. It needs to hold ten volts at50%rated cranking amps.
Failed test is pretty obvious.

Moral of the story-
The 400 dollar tester is in no way better than my 69 dollar tester.

 

[Reddog]

i know this is old but same thing happened to me on my B2650.

However, I started mine and was warming it up because i have to remove the seat and panel to access a hyd leak i posted about.

Since i have been under there recently i still had teh seat switch bypassed keep that in mind.
so i remove the seat completly and remove bolts from panel.

panel is stuck but i get a grip on it and when it pops up the tractor dies.

wont crank but glow plug light and oil pressure light i think are working.

i assume the seat switch wires came undone. check the twist still good plug and unplug still good.

still wont crank, then i realize the dash panel is blank??

besides a redlight and one amber light when i crank it nothing is on the panel.

very cold out so i will post more after i warm up and tinker some more. may just be a fuse?? maybe the twisted wires from seat switch grounded when the panel came free. I hope. should be a battery issue, as i said is started and was runnning about 5 minutes before it died. but i will try to jump it if fuses are all good

 

[Reddog]

it was the 5a fuse now on to hyd