L3200 Starting Problem

[chim]

3 years old with around 350 hours on it. A couple times when the key was twisted far enough to make the starter run, it made that sort of loud buzzing/machine gun sound that is often a sign of a weak battery. Battery tested as good as new at the auto supply place.

A short jumper on the starter makes the starter turn every time. Searches indicate a small relay buried behind the instrument cluster that sends 12V to the terminal on the starter if I'm following it correctly.

Am I on the right track?

Could it also be a poor connection through one of the safeties?

Can the instrument cluster be removed by itself to access the little relay? The front wall of the cab would need removed if the sheet metal had to come off.

Thank you.

 

[Stubbyie]

I don't know your machine model, but...

I think the relay you describe would probably fail and not chatter intermittently.

A short jumper wire is mentioned. Could it be you're jumping from the starter solenoid to the starter main power input terminal?

I'd look for a starter solenoid mounted on near or at the starter.

Be a good time to track down a WorkShop Manual either online or hardcopy. Messicks can furnish particular pages of parts schematics you request; Kubota online the same. May look for wiring schematics and electrical starting system parts . May be of assistance tracking problem.

Others aboard this Forum probably know more about the electrical system of your machine than I can possibly guess. Be patient and someone will chime in.

Please post back your continuing experiences so we may all learn.

 

[ShaunRH]

Like in the other post, clean the ground connections up, both at the battery and where the strap connects to the frame.

No Start Flowchart:

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=13259&d=1414682326

 

[Shadow]

If it's an HST, I'd sooner think your safety switch is out of adjustment. It's right below the steering column

 

[chim]

Thank you for the suggestions. I haven't had time to go very far this week. I did remove and clean the battery connections and scraped the metal clean where the ground is connected the frame. All these connections were given a coat of anti-oxidizing paste.

I found a wiring diagram yesterday and will see what all the power needs to go through to make it work.

Whatever it turns out to be I'll post about it in case someone else runs ito the same thing.

 

[chim]

I didn't neglect to post the findings. There were none. The tractor has been acting perfectly normal, so there isn't anything to report.

 

[CaveCreekRay]

ZZZactly like mine. Even the dealer missed it the first time.

The clatter is the starter solenoid trying to engage. The culprit on mine (and many others) is the HST pedal safety switch. The switch makes sure that the starter will not engage unless the HST pedal is centered. When the pivot on the pedal gets dirty, the pedal hangs up and bumps against the microswitch.

Solution:
1. Clean and lube the bearing pivot on the HST pedal.
2. Adjust the range of this safety switch to a wider tolerance. They come from the factory too tight. Its usually on the lower right side of the lower dash area.

To make sure, next time you experience this, rock the HST pedal and make sure it centered. I tried a new battery and that didn't help. Turns out it wasn't the wiring or any other problem except a "save the chidren" switch.

Let us know what you find.

Ray

 

[chim]

Ray, I'll certainly check that switch next time it misbehaves. I appreciate the input.

It's usually so much easier to fix something that stays broken. Back in the late 60's I ran service calls and the least enjoyable were the ones where a customer started out with "It's workin' good right now, but yesterday when I called............."

 

[CaveCreekRay]

Ain't that the TRUTH! My troubleshooting was futile for that reason. The dealer service tech knew about the issue and focused in on the switch. SOLVED!

Good luck,
Ray

 

[Daren Todd]

Ray, I'll certainly check that switch next time it misbehaves. I appreciate the input.

It's usually so much easier to fix something that stays broken. Back in the late 60's I ran service calls and the least enjoyable were the ones where a customer started out with "It's workin' good right now, but yesterday when I called............."

Those calls are the worst. Then some of them want you to drive out on your own dime to look anyway. My favorite was having to go check out a battery on saturday. Person left the key on. They jump started it and let it run for a bit to charge the battery. Then called me to run out there and load test the battery Explained before I left that there would be a milage and time charge at after hours rate for the call. They said ok, it needs to be checked. idiot could have dragged the battery 20 minutes to the nearest parts store and had it for free. Nope they had to have me drive out there at $3.75/ mile for 75 miles. Plus $150/ hour for overtime rate You just can't fix stupid.

 

[chim]

Ray got it. The tractor gave me trouble again. It took several wiggles of the HST pedal, but finally started fine. Had to use it rather than fix it properly but will do some cleaning and lubing. Thanks everyone.

 

[chim]

Hopefully this is the end of the story. As previously noted, Ray had the answer. Now for the final installment. It had been working "kinda OK" for weeks and I was busy so it wasn't fixed. An occasional rocking of the pedal was needed but that wasn't too frequent. Today I did a bunch of outdoor catch-up work, mowed for the last time and mounted the snow blower on the Kubota. The tractor shut off when I hopped out to do something, was difficult to start and was a pain in general.

At first I was going to jump out the child-proofing switch. I located it, removed it bracket and all and unplugged it. It checked out fine for continuity when activated so I ran it into the mounting bracket another 1-1/2 turns. Worked perfectly the rest of the day. Thanks again.