L3200, 2013. When I turn the key to start I get a click but no starter reaction. Sounds like a solenoid problem to me, where is the solenoid? Any other suggestions to trouble shoot the problem? I am assuming because I get a click, that the safety switches aren't the problem. I don't get the click if I am not sitting on the switch
L3200 starting issue
- Thread starter YooperKubota
- Start date
Most likely a battery problem. Clean the terminals and make sure good clean frame contact with negative cable. Take the battery in and have a load test performed.
Slow blow fuses check. These are close to your feet when sitting in seat. You'll see three; large letters with 40A, 40A, 30A on covers.
Relays are under bonnet on top of instrument cluster. If you get to this point you can come back and ask how to access.
Slow blow fuses check. These are close to your feet when sitting in seat. You'll see three; large letters with 40A, 40A, 30A on covers.
Relays are under bonnet on top of instrument cluster. If you get to this point you can come back and ask how to access.
Mos times the solenoid is piggy backed on the starter motor. Sounds to me like a battery issue as well. Terminals clean and oxide free???
Hst or gear shift? Dash lights come on when turning key on? I have the same tractor, mine gear shift. Starter solenoid is piggy back to starter like sidecar says. Has the large power wire going to it on the bottom and a small single wire connector that plugs in for the solenoid. Check for voltage at the big wire should be battery voltage at all times. Unplug the little connector and should have battery voltage when key turned to start.
Another check would be putting volt meter leads acoss the battery and checking voltage while cranking,then from there doing a voltage drop test across the battery ground and drop test the starter power wire.
Another check would be putting volt meter leads acoss the battery and checking voltage while cranking,then from there doing a voltage drop test across the battery ground and drop test the starter power wire.
RCW
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Betting battery.....They will have 12.3V on a meter, but no ass to pull any juice.. what Fordtech was working toward.
A little tip learned a long time ago with those push to disconnect connectors, Molex style or not. When I take them apart, I always add some di-electric grease before I put them back together. Water has a way of getting in and corroding the connections.
Welcome to the OTT forum. As you see, there are very knowledgeable people here willing to help.
Same recommendation as the others, check battery and connections.
Same recommendation as the others, check battery and connections.
Harbor Freight sells a dandy carbon pile battery tester (cabinet model) for 49 bucks. With that you can instantly see if your battery is worth it's salt or it's teasing you....
I have one and it has worked fine for 4 years. Unusual for Harbor Freight I know.
I have one and it has worked fine for 4 years. Unusual for Harbor Freight I know.
Thanks for all the suggestions, Just got back from Florida and working on the Starting issue trying all the suggestions. Battery passes load test clamped to the terminals, not the posts. Re checked all of the safety switches, lubed the plungers and checked with VOM and they look like they are activating. Still get dash lights when key is turned and a click, but no rotation of the starter. Really getting frustrated. Is it safe to try to short across starter terminals to see if starter will spin, like we used to do on the old cars or is that a no-no? There are just 4 safety switches, right? Seat, HST, clutch pedal, and PTO?
North Idaho Wolfman
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Jump the solenoid input, that bypasses all the switches and such.
Make sure the brake is set and it's out of gear!
Make sure the brake is set and it's out of gear!
That's right, and HST and PTO switches are double-poled.
Should have good voltage at B terminal on starter, good ground. Start signal is on terminal S by a Black wire with white stripe. See if you are getting +12V to terminal S, when attempting start. Terminal S is the small slide-on single connector next to the large conductor going to the battery + post.
Working back is the starter relay. It is under the rear bonnet. Connector to the relay - red wire goes to hot terminal. Switched power to starter S has the larger Black/white wire to the connector terminal.
Also check the 5A fuse that feeds the starter relay coil.
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If it’s clicking I wouldn’t think it’s a safety switch, mine doesn’t do anything when the safeties are tripped, dash comes on but that’s it.
Take one of your volt meter leads and put it on the negative post at the battery, take your other lead and put it on a good clean spot on the frame and try to crank it. If there is any voltage then your ground wire is the problem. You can do the same for the positive side, one lead at the positive battery terminal and your other at the big wire at the starter, again any voltage means there’s corrosion/connection issues.
You may see very low voltage but typically if your dropping 1 volt or more it could give you problems.
Take one of your volt meter leads and put it on the negative post at the battery, take your other lead and put it on a good clean spot on the frame and try to crank it. If there is any voltage then your ground wire is the problem. You can do the same for the positive side, one lead at the positive battery terminal and your other at the big wire at the starter, again any voltage means there’s corrosion/connection issues.
You may see very low voltage but typically if your dropping 1 volt or more it could give you problems.