L3010 & log splitter

[Ogoki]

In the purchase of a used tiller came a 3 point splitter. I already own a gas engine splitter, which will be my main splitter. But as many of you have found out , lifting larger pieces onto a splitter like this is more lifting than I now want . The 3 pt splitter can be lowered to the ground which makes for easier splitting of the larger pieces.
I went to my Kubota dealer amd was quoted $1000 for rear remotes . I was thinking I could just unplug the quick connects going to the FEL and connect the splitter there . My question is I DO BELIEVE the hand valve on the splitter is NOT an open center . How do I know as it does not have a very legible nameplate. It is an Energy brand . I slide the center out and it has 2 grooves and not 4 .

My other question is , this splitter was used on a John Deere with rear remotes . With a factory rear remote does that let the hydraulic oil bypass the hand control ? What would be the reason for open center vs closed center? I did a search here on this and saw other threads but I am still in question on the proper hook up as I don't want to low up my pump or me ?Sorry for being so long with this . Thsnk you

 

[notnew2diy]

The speed of the splitter is directly related to the GPM of your FEL pump.

The quick connects may not match your FEL connects.

I disconnect my 2 tilt connects, attach my splitter, use a bungee cord to hold FEL lever to activate pump. Works well for me.

HTH...notnew...

 

[Ogoki]

I can figure how to connect to the tractor, my question is how do I tell if I have an open center or closed center control valve on splitter . If it is a closed center valve , I am afraid I would be dead heading the hydraulic pump pressure into my control valve. An open center valve has provisions to let the oil be bypassing the control valve , when it is not activated.

Evidently the third line on the joy stick control allows for bypassing of the oil when the joy stick is in the neutrl position . I don't want to ASSUME this .

I can always just spend the money and buy a control valve that I know is open center.

 

[Dave_eng]

Assuming valve has 4 lines then this test should tell you.
Blow compressed air down the supply line. If nothing comes out the return line to the tank then it is closed center.
If there are more than 4 lines you may have a power beyond valve which is getting beyond my knowledge.
Dave M7040

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If it was used on an older JD then it's most likely Closed Center, But do like Dave said to test it, very unlikely it has PB.

To use a 3 point log splitter efficiently, you need an non valve controlled circuit, hooking up to the FEL Valve outputs works but it's inefficient.

 

[Ogoki]

On my first post, I stated that I DO BELIEVE it is " closed center" , as I did the air pressure test last weekend . Sounds like my thinking was on track. I DID NOT get air thru the valve , when in the neutral position.

So it appears I NEED to purchase an " open center" valve for the splitter, Thank you that is what I needed to confirm .

So now could I just put tees in the block , underneath the right foot rest, that feeds the joy stick? Then install quick connects there ,to attach splitter? The tees would be on the supply and return lines.


So just for my learning process here, if I used the closed center valve ,I would be dead heading the oil pressure at the valve ? Causing a pump to blow up or a line to blow up? Evidently on the JD remotes , there must be a bypass involved? Always wanting to learn . I am a very curious person !
THANK YOU

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

So now could I just put tees in the block , underneath the right foot rest, that feeds the joy stick? Then install quick connects there ,to attach splitter? The tees would be on the supply and return lines.

No you can not do that, it won't work, Kubota requires a full closed loop, no tee's!

So just for my learning process here, if I used the closed center valve ,I would be dead heading the oil pressure at the valve ? Causing a pump to blow up or a line to blow up? Evidently on the JD remotes , there must be a bypass involved? Always wanting to learn . I am a very curious person !
THANK YOU

Yes you would be dead heading the pump and yes damage would result.
The remotes have nothing to do with it, it has to do with the design of the complete hydraulic system, completely the opposite of the Kubota system.

 

[OldeEnglish]

I'm curious also and love learning new things about hydraulics.... Wolfman, could he splice the T's in but also add two ball valves to bypass the loader valve and just change out the splitter spool to an open center type?

 

[Ogoki]

My splitter valve is an Energy brand. I spoke with them earlier in the week and they DO NOT sell the spool ONLY. I have a new "open center " valve on order. With the open center valve the fluid can flow thru the valve back to the source , without dead heading the pump.

My Kubota dealer said I COULD tee the lines BUT would have to unplug the supply line going to the FEL joy stick , when using the splitter. Evidently the joy stick must be similar to an open center design. It took two of the mechanics awhile to agree with each other on this . That is my reason for presenting my question here. I don't want any surprises, as in ruining something or me. LOL

 

[OldeEnglish]

My splitter valve is an Energy brand. I spoke with them earlier in the week and they DO NOT sell the spool ONLY. I have a new "open center " valve on order. With the open center valve the fluid can flow thru the valve back to the source , without dead heading the pump.

My Kubota dealer said I COULD tee the lines BUT would have to unplug the supply line going to the FEL joy stick , when using the splitter. Evidently the joy stick must be similar to an open center design. It took two of the mechanics awhile to agree with each other on this . That is my reason for presenting my question here. I don't want any surprises, as in ruining something or me. LOL

The theory of it is to just to keep the fluid pumping and circulating through the system until you operate a spool to function something. I'm no pro with tractors but have pumped some liquid in my day in ways it would make ones head spin. An open center system is really simple, it always needs to be flowing. I would throw ball valves on the loader side of your T's and put the female ends of the quick connects on the branch side of the T that will go to the splitter. That way you only have to plug in your splitter hoses and shut the ball valves to divert the flow to the splitter. Only connect it in that sequence and either turn off the tractor while doing it or plug the splitter in FIRST before you SLOWLY turn the ball valves off at the same time. If you hear the tractor wanting to bog down, abort and check your two connections. It's safer to connect it with the tractor off. It makes no sense to have to disconnect more hoses than you need to, plus you would lose less oil during the process of connection. That's what I would do

Ohh yeah, when ordering ball valves buy the Full Port type. Some valves are not and have a smaller inside diameter than the actual pipe size. That way it won't restrict any flow to your loader when your not using the splitter.

Scratch that I have a better idea where you can still use your loader... Give me a min and I'll draw it

 

[OldeEnglish]

One ball valve in the middle two TS on the Supply which will be shut when you have the splitter hooked up. That way the fluid will be flowing to your loader at the same time. Of course the splitter valve will have to be open center and assuming the loader valve is open center.

 

[skeets]

My .02 cents is sell it and buy one with a separate pump for the PTO if you want a 3 point set up.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

One ball valve in the middle two TS on the Supply which will be shut when you have the splitter hooked up. That way the fluid will be flowing to your loader at the same time. Of course the splitter valve will have to be open center and assuming the loader valve is open center.

Yes that will work, it's not pretty but it works.
But I do not recommend this method, as the first time someone turns the ball valve with the splitter disconnected, it will blow lines, parts and/or seals, not a very safe method of an install!

 

[OldeEnglish]

So use a small length of hydraulic hose with 2 male ends of the quick connect and loop the t branches together as a safe guard, if your not comfortable with it for some reason. Or you can take the handle off of the ball valve and just operate the valve with a wrench making it impossible to just accidentally throw the valve. I know where your coming from with people turning off valves to things they have and no idea what they do or what could happen if they do... Or like I said before, be safe and divert the flow with the tractor off. Cheap insurance....and yes I'm not much of a Picasso