L3010 hydraulic leak from right front wheel

[Billdog350]

X2 with Wolfman. You want to pry just the seal up. I use a BEEFY large screwdriver or pry bar and just get it under there and pry up. You will want to use PB Blaster/Pen oil on the outside lip of the seal where it meets the housing so it will help it separate/pop out.

I have tried those harbor freight seal removers but broken many of them trying to remove this type of seal. Pry bar is key. Once seal is out...you don't even need to remove the bearing unless its bad. Just rinse the bearing with lots of diesel and/or WD40 to get the sand and grit out of it that fell in from the seal removal.

 

[filldirt]

Hey North Idaho Wolfman - ya did it! I went back and re-read and thought I had to get that 3rd C clip out, but couldn't see how that held the upper bearing and seal in. I had used a screwdriver to try and pry out the seal, then saw the claw hammer and viola!!

Thanks everyone for the help. My heavy duty snap ring pliers should be in today, so will be much easier putting back together and, doing the left side.

 

[Billdog350]

filldirt, MAKE SURE the c clip seats FULLY on the shaft when you reassemble. If it doesn't fully seat, your knuckle will fall off the machine when you lift the front end up with the loader.

I recommend to tap on it with a punch and hammer lightly once you have it in place to make sure its "snapped" all the way in.

Reminder again to remove the metal part of the seal that's on the male shaft that inserts into the knuckle you show in the picture. If that metal part of the seal isn't removed, you will NEVER get it all back together.

 

[filldirt]

Thanks Billdog350. Yes, I had to persuade the C clip (see pix). After using brake cleaner and compressed air to clean all, used emery cloth and wire wheel to clean up seat faces. I got the external C clip in place but it wasn't completely set. I flipped assy over and tapped with a hammer until it seated.

Also during assy, I poured 80/90 over the bearings and faces. Rubber mallet worked well for the "C" seal on the bottom.

Still waiting for my heavy duty snap ring pliers (they were supposed to be in last Fri). Think I'll wait for them to start left side. Should go much better now that I know what "not" to do.

 

[Billdog350]

Glad you got it all together, know that you saved yourself at least $500 in labor at most shops!

FYI, if you are doing that job on the machine, you can just lower the machine onto a jackstand and it will push the knuckle into the male pivot assembly and no hammering is needed.

good call waiting till your pliers arrive....

These look like my Napa ones...$65 and you'll have them in 2 days if you have Amazon Prime (if you don't get Amazon Prime and use it! I love it!)

http://www.amazon.com/Armstrong-68-...4&sr=8-6&keywords=ratcheting+snap+ring+pliers

 

[filldirt]

Good idea on lowering onto knuckle. Just got my pliers from Northern Tools. From Channel Lock, $49. Will now tackle the left side.

Yeah, Dunkin Donuts my granddaughter brought home to keep me motivated.

 

[filldirt]

Heavy duty snap ring pliers made all the diff on the left side. Finished it in less than 3 hrs!

Now, I seem to be having a problem finding out what the 80/90w gear oil capacity is. I'm assuming the fill plug on the rt side feeds both. But, how much? So far, just getting type of oil, engine capacity, radiator, etc, but nada on the front axle.

 

[filldirt]

OK, found a youtube video; fill plug is on the right side and check plug on the left. so fill with 4 - 6 qts. until fluid starts coming out of check plug - then you are done. I'm assuming 6 qts since I fully drained,

 

[Billdog350]

Filldirt, glad those plyers helped you out, they made a world of difference for me!

As far as filling, yeah get a few gallons and then you have plenty...Fill till it runs out.

Those machines ALSO don't have a vent...so sometimes pressure builds in the summer and pushes out oil from the seals or pops the caps off the bottom of the knuckle. If your fill plug is vertical on the axle, you can drill a small pilot hole and insert a cotter pin and it will allow your axle to vent...the only issue is if you submerge your axle in water it will take in water.....

 

[filldirt]

Unfortunately, fill plug is on the side. I do occasionally get it wet, so will just vent the plug when it gets warm.

I dug this pond and built the deck in 2000. I've had to drain it once because of a flood in 2009 (note there is a creek on the other side of the pond that totally flooded). The silt was tremendous. Lost about $30k worth of Koi. I scooped out probably 6 yds of silt