L3010 HST won't start. Battery good, starter good

Tenalach Farms

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Kubota L3010
Oct 27, 2022
28
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Michigan
I'm pretty sure this has come up before my search efforts have not found anything helpful. Apologies if anyone feels like this has been beat to death before ;) I have a shop manual, but the information in it does not help Me to find some of the likely culprits in the electrical system - various safety switches.
My meter says I'm getting 12 volts at the starter with the key off, and when I turn it to start that reading drops to more like 4-5 volts. No sound with the key in start position. Indicator lights come on. Sometimes there's a low almost hissing sound as the key moves back to the On position. I've checked battery connections - replaced the grounding cable not that long ago because of intermittent problems there, the positive side is good and my meter reads 12 volts across the battery. I replaced the old starter hoping it would be that simple a fix, but of course not. Jumping the old starter, it runs. For now, assuming the new starter is good.
I need some KISS advice/instructions on how to track down this problem. Really need the tractor running, and my local shop has given me the runaround and doesn't think they can extract it from where it is, less than 50' off my driveway :(
Thanks in advance.

Things just keep getting "better". According to page 3 -NS31 in the shop manual, there's a safety switch mounted to the left fender mount bracket. There's another thread on here with an L3010 owner and he found the switch in this spot, easily accessible and that thread has another couple of diagrams showing the switch on the bracket and how it mounts. Just came in from looking on my tractor. No such switch, no place on the bracket for it to mount. I've jumped the solenoid on the new starter in place on the engine and while it revs up, there's no linkage to the engine, no attempt to turn it over. I can't jump the starter And hold the Clutch pedal down at the same time, so I can't test in that condition. I've tried jumping with a known good battery (aside from the known good battery already on the tractor).
 
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JimDeL

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Check the connection of the negative cable to the chassis ground. Make sure it's clean and is connecting to BARE METAL.
 

johnjk

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Look to see how many safety switches you have. Common areas are the clutch pedal and seat. They may ohm good but you could be dropping voltage across them and that solenoid on the starter is looking for that 12V signal. For testing you can jumper the safety switches out and test. I had drops on my safety switches and ended up wiring in a relay that sends 12V to that solenoid even if the voltage off the safety switches is below 12V. The other thing to check is that you don’t have a safety switch that has worked loose and backed off so it is not getting depressed and making contact.
 

Moose7060

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Since you have checked all the connections including the ground, I would load test the battery. 12v doesn't always equate to good. Just a suggestion. Good luck.
 
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PoTreeBoy

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I'm pretty sure this has come up before my search efforts have not found anything helpful. Apologies if anyone feels like this has been beat to death before ;) I have a shop manual, but the information in it does not help Me to find some of the likely culprits in the electrical system - various safety switches.
My meter says I'm getting 12 volts at the starter with the key off, and when I turn it to start that reading drops to more like 4-5 volts. No sound with the key in start position. Indicator lights come on. Sometimes there's a low almost hissing sound as the key moves back to the On position. I've checked battery connections - replaced the grounding cable not that long ago because of intermittent problems there, the positive side is good and my meter reads 12 volts across the battery. I replaced the old starter hoping it would be that simple a fix, but of course not. Jumping the old starter, it runs. For now, assuming the new starter is good.
I need some KISS advice/instructions on how to track down this problem. Really need the tractor running, and my local shop has given me the runaround and doesn't think they can extract it from where it is, less than 50' off my driveway :(
Thanks in advance.
Some time ago, somebody posted a detailed procedure. I'll try to get you started. If your voltage across the starter is only 5 volts, you either have a battery or connection problem.
1. Put you VOM probes on the battery posts, not the connectors. When you hit the starter, what's the reading? If below 9 or so, your battery is the problem. Assuming it's ok, go to 2.
2. We want to find where the voltage drop is, a bad connection. Keep the + probe on the battery + post. Then take readings (must be while trying to start, so you have high current) at + battery clamp, starter end of + cable, starter + post. Any voltage reading over 0.5v shows a bad connection. Then work from the - battery post to the - battery clamp, ground connector and engine ground. You'll find either a bad cable or bad connection.
If you get 11 volts or so at the starter and it won't crank, then you have a bad starter or starter solenoid.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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Sounds like you need to replace the +ve battery cable.
1) good battery
2) good ground cable(new)
3) +12 on starter stud , when key off.
4) +4-5 on starter stud when key turned to 'start'
5) new starter

When you power the starter relay, +12 stud on starter drops to 4 or 5 volts. That and the hissing, indicates a lot of current is trying to pass through but meeting 'some' resistance. THAT resistance drop the voltage down and starter won't spin.

Curious as to why you didn't replace BOTH battery cables.
 

DustyRusty

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Without a load test on the battery you have no idea of how good it actually is. I have seen batteries show 12 volts, but they didn't have any cold cranking ability. Only good for lighting a tail lamp bulb. I know you said that you replaced the negative cable, but take it off the frame and check it again. A lot of corrosion can happen in a short time. Do the same with the positive cable. Also using a battery brush clean the terminals on the battery and the inside of the terminals on the battery cables. If you are using the clamp on replacement ends on the battery cables, ditch them and purchase some quality battery cables. Your tractor deserves the best products to continue to be reliable.
 
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RCW

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I’m thinking a load test on the battery is warranted like others said.

You can chase a lot of electrical gremlins, but if the battery isn’t pushing the amperage, it’s all for naught.
 
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Tenalach Farms

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Kubota L3010
Oct 27, 2022
28
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Michigan
Sounds like you need to replace the +ve battery cable.
1) good battery
2) good ground cable(new)
3) +12 on starter stud , when key off.
4) +4-5 on starter stud when key turned to 'start'
5) new starter

When you power the starter relay, +12 stud on starter drops to 4 or 5 volts. That and the hissing, indicates a lot of current is trying to pass through but meeting 'some' resistance. THAT resistance drop the voltage down and starter won't spin.

Curious as to why you didn't replace BOTH battery cables.
R
Sounds like you need to replace the +ve battery cable.
1) good battery
2) good ground cable(new)
3) +12 on starter stud , when key off.
4) +4-5 on starter stud when key turned to 'start'
5) new starter

When you power the starter relay, +12 stud on starter drops to 4 or 5 volts. That and the hissing, indicates a lot of current is trying to pass through but meeting 'some' resistance. THAT resistance drop the voltage down and starter won't spin.

Curious as to why you didn't replace BOTH battery cables.
Regarding the battery cables - I sent it into the shop over what turned out to be the ground cable. They replaced the positive but not the ground. I had to do that because they didn't bother to and the problem recurred.
 

Dustball

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If you're measuring 12.0 volts at the battery, the battery's most likely is no good. A good battery should be 12.6V.
 
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airbiscuit

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So, both the positive and ground cables have been replaced?
Might your glow plugs be doing an excessive draw?
 

BAP

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Have you tried hooking a battery charger to the battery and with it on, see if it makes any difference in trying to start?
 

Moose7060

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Have you tried hooking a battery charger to the battery and with it on, see if it makes any difference in trying to start?
May be worth a try but I tried that once with a Harley that wouldn't start in the spring. Showed 12.3V but just wouldn't fire even with a battery charger on it. Turned out there was a bad cell in the battery and when I installed a new battery it fired right up.
 

Tenalach Farms

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Equipment
Kubota L3010
Oct 27, 2022
28
11
3
Michigan
Can anybody help with the safety switch question? Not just "Check them", but where to find them on a ca. 2002 L3010? Just for now, please stop assuming the battery is the problem when I've really done my best to say that's not the problem? :)
 

Moose7060

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M7060, L3902 HST, Farm King PT740, HLA 2500 Snowpusher, LandPride RCR1872
Oct 14, 2023
584
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Can anybody help with the safety switch question? Not just "Check them", but where to find them on a ca. 2002 L3010? Just for now, please stop assuming the battery is the problem when I've really done my best to say that's not the problem? :)
Q: Where exactly are Kubota tractor safety switch locations?
A: The safety switches on a Kubota tractor can be found in several locations. The most common locations include underneath the seat, on the brake pedal, and on the power take-off (PTO) switch.

Can't offer any more help with your particular machine. Good luck.
 

PoTreeBoy

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Can anybody help with the safety switch question? Not just "Check them", but where to find them on a ca. 2002 L3010? Just for now, please stop assuming the battery is the problem when I've really done my best to say that's not the problem? :)
Have you tried, after making sure it's in neutral and brake set, jumping the start solenoid? In an early post, you said that in 'start' you were getting 5 volts across the starter. This indicates that the interlock switches are working.

My experience with an M7040: I was dreading running through the wiring system to find the problem. But a little quick troubleshooting pointed to the starter. Sure enough, it was an easy fix. Yours points to a loose connection.

If you go to the parts diagrams on www.KubotaUSA.com, there are diagrams like this one that give hints on where electrical devices are:
Screenshot_20240718-102048-045.png

You may need your serial number.
 
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g_man

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I have a same vintage L3010 geared transmission. There are two safety switches. F/N/R lever on column must be in Neutral. PTO clutch lever near right fender must be off. I don't know where the physical switches are but would think they would near the lever linkage.

gg
 
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Grandad4

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May be worth a try but I tried that once with a Harley that wouldn't start in the spring. Showed 12.3V but just wouldn't fire even with a battery charger on it. Turned out there was a bad cell in the battery and when I installed a new battery it fired right up.
Several comments about checking if the battery is bad. Unclear if you have/have not ruled that out. 12 volts with no load suggests battery issues.