L295DT wont start, white smoke, video

[joesmith123]

I’m trying to answer se of your questions here:

Glow Plugs
I assume what is glowing red is some indicator on the meter not something else.

Glow plugs wiring sound like it will work but the voltage is too high when in the glow plug switch position. It will burn the glow plugs out. Wiring is a bit odd on the tractor wh done correctly. The wiring for the glow plugs is this: battery to the switch (glow plugs and starter switch) then from switch (in glow plug position) to one side of the glow plug indicator (doesn’t matter which side but call this side A). Then through the indicator that is also a resistor to drop the voltage. From the other side of indicator (side B) the wiring then goes to the glow plugs (top of each glow plug are all connected together by the large solid wires that have no insulation and look like a solid rod. From there the power goes through the glow plug and to ground at the bottom of the glow plug where it screws into the block.

When the switch is turned to the starter position the wiring to the glow plugs changes and goes “around” the glow plug indicator and connects to the side B so does not drop the voltage BUT since the starter is cranking the engine the battery voltage is dropped and the amount of time in the start position is usually short.

i would get three new glow plugs and their copper seals since you said that you have leakage at one. I would get a new glow plug indicator also. You can just run wiring temporarily per the above until you put it back together. The indicator will get hot so you should mount it to something like a board and keep it away from fuels. Get a deep socket that fits the glow plugs. All of these parts are inexpensive.

Decompression
The lever at front of the valve cover should be spring loaded and move to the correct position to run. From recent memory (if sitting in the seat) movement to the left will be decompression position and to the right creates compression. You may be able to rig up a string through a hole on the left side of the tractor to pull it open and just let it slack to close it. The cable and the keeper (that pulls the lever) are also relatively inexpensive and probably available. Your engine is spinning ok but sounds a little slow and will spin mu faster if the decompression knob is working. I assume you know how to use it but in short decompress the spin engine up to speed and the release knob to start. You may want to look into a new starter and see if you can get the gear reduction type that will spin it faster. (There is a thread on here that explains how getting the engine to spin faster got a rebuilt engine to start and run but I can’t locate it. The compression was low since the rings had not seated yet)

Fuel
It looks like you are getting fuel but you may want to get new injectors or have yours rebuilt. You can do some tests but I won’t try to explain them.

You need to stop using starter fluid.

You may want to get new fuel if you are not sure how old the fuel is in the tank.

You can verify the fuel flow at the injector pump inlet to verivy the flow is normal.

tremendous amount of information

Glowing red: correct, a volt meter that glows red if there is power, or green if there ground
That indicator is showing power at the glow plugs when starter switch turned left

Getting those parts: Do you think first I should test the current glow plugs and exhaust other avenues before buying parts that potentially are not needed yet?

Decompression knob: From what I am gathering, I should pull it left (from driver position) when cranking, then when she is starting, push knob right?

Fuel: yes, I should clean the injectors and make sure there is no obstructions
I'll look into how much the injectors are, or look into rebuilding them

Starter fluid: yes i agree

Old fuel: I'm not sure how old it is but I think there's a valve under the tank that I can use to drain it out

"You can verify fuel flow at injection pump to verify flow is normal"
How can I verify this exactly? Is there a test that can to see or am I eyeballing it?

 

[Russell King]

Getting those parts: Do you think first I should test the current glow plugs and exhaust other avenues before buying parts that potentially are not needed yet?
I would recommend you replace the glow plugs since they will be removed from the engine when you are checking the compression but if you are sure they are working properly then just replace the sealing washers.

Decompression knob: From what I am gathering, I should pull it left (from driver position) when cranking, then when she is starting, push knob right?
Engine will not even try to fire off if there is not compression when the lever is to the left. It allows the starter to get the engine spinning faster and the inertia will help keep the engine moving when the lever is moved to the right and there is compression to explode the fuel, start the engine and run. Left is spin only, right is run.

Fuel: yes, I should clean the injectors and make sure there is no obstructions
I'll look into how much the injectors are, or look into rebuilding them

Starter fluid: yes i agree

Old fuel: I'm not sure how old it is but I think there's a valve under the tank that I can use to drain it out.

"You can verify fuel flow at injection pump to verify flow is normal"
How can I verify this exactly? Is there a test that can to see or am I eyeballing it?

Eyeball, You can see if the hose diameter is full flow or just a bit of fuel dripping out. You should say something like “heck I didn’t think that would flow that well“ if everything is open and the tank is full. If you want you can drain the tank into a fuel can at that point since it is fairly low.

If it seems like little flow then you will need to move closer to the tank to see where the flow is good. There is a connection into the fuel filter mount that can be used.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Getting those parts: Do you think first I should test the current glow plugs and exhaust other avenues before buying parts that potentially are not needed yet?
I would recommend you replace the glow plugs since they will be removed from the engine when you are checking the compression but if you are sure they are working properly then just replace the sealing washers.

Decompression knob: From what I am gathering, I should pull it left (from driver position) when cranking, then when she is starting, push knob right?
Engine will not even try to fire off if there is not compression when the lever is to the left. It allows the starter to get the engine spinning faster and the inertia will help keep the engine moving when the lever is moved to the right and there is compression to explode the fuel, start the engine and run. Left is spin only, right is run.

Fuel: yes, I should clean the injectors and make sure there is no obstructions
I'll look into how much the injectors are, or look into rebuilding them

Starter fluid: yes i agree

Old fuel: I'm not sure how old it is but I think there's a valve under the tank that I can use to drain it out.

"You can verify fuel flow at injection pump to verify flow is normal"
How can I verify this exactly? Is there a test that can to see or am I eyeballing it?

Eyeball, You can see if the hose diameter is full flow or just a bit of fuel dripping out. You should say something like “heck I didn’t think that would flow that well“ if everything is open and the tank is full. If you want you can drain the tank into a fuel can at that point since it is fairly low.

If it seems like little flow then you will need to move closer to the tank to see where the flow is good. There is a connection into the fuel filter mount that can be used.

There are no sealing washers on the glow plugs, it's a taper seat.

 

[Russell King]

There are no sealing washers on the glow plugs, it's a taper seat.

True! I was thinking of the injectors

 

[joesmith123]

Fully confirmed I am working on it this second:

Touching each glow plug, each one will get hot enough to almost burn a finger when the starter switch held left

I spent about 5-10 minutes confirming each one was getting hot enough

Earlier I think I said it is spitting out from under the glow plug, no, it is spitting out from where the injector sits, I'll put a very detailed picture pointing, the front injector

Also is a video of the decompression knob: spring not pushing it back, does not feel free moving, I will put lubricant, also I'll reread the previous posts about whether to have it right/left and try to start it up after fixing injector leak...

May 5, 2023

youtube.com

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

As far as the decompression lever goes, it should rotate past the spring.
If you want to 100% eliminate it as an issue simply remove the valve cover.

The injector leaking at it's base would be a huge issue, it need to have a 100 seal.
spray soapy water around the base off all the injectors and look for bubbles while cranking.
There is a sealing washer between the injector and the head, if they are not torqued properly then they will leak.
If you do want to remove the injectors you can kill several birds with one stone.
You can test compression via the injector ports.
You can verify the sealing washers.
You can test the injectors for leaks and spray pattern.

You simply pull all the fuel lines off the Injectors and Injection pump, Install one line on the injection pump with the other end off to the side of the engine. loosely attach an injector Bleed line, tighten injector to the line, then using a piece of cardboard under the injector, check for a misting spray pattern.
Any drips or non fog like spry mean the injector is bad.

 

[joesmith123]

Few updates:

First video: showing a broken exhaust manifold with some sort of build up inside, and trying to show detailed engine bay

So far I did:
Took out all out diesel and put in new diesel, plus filter
Confirmed there is diesel flowing
Took out front inector, cleaned it, put it back in, leak gone

2nd video: pushing the decompression valve left to let it run loose, then it naturally springs back and allows compression

Feeling: compression seems fine because huge difference in cranking speed when switched from left to right

Headgasket bolts were loose, tightened...

Next step:
test compression, all new injectors, all new glow plugs...

 

[joesmith123]

I opened the valve under the injection pump, and water is coming out, it’s still dripping out while I type this

 

[joesmith123]

There’s supposed to be diesel coming out, right?

Edit: I realized that’s the coolant

 

[Russell King]

Here is a picture from the same position as you were standing in the video.

You were moving it to the right further than it needs to go. Notice that in the background the cable goes through a bracket with a hole in it. Your video shows the same hole in the bracket. The brass (gold color) keeper in the picture move towards the hole in bracket to get it in the decompression position and stretch the spring. The picture above shows the lever in the run position.

You can ignore that now unless you want to use it for the decompression. It is not causing any problems since you have shown that it moves freely past where it should be.

 

[Russell King]

I opened the valve under the injection pump, and water is coming out, it’s still dripping out while I type this

That valve is probably draining the water from the engine and radiator.

Follow the fuel line to the pump and that will attach to the bleeding valve for the fuel.

You can see illustrated parts here

Kubota Tractor Corporation - Illustrated Parts List

- K-PAD - Parts Lists - Illustrated Parts Lists - diagrams

apps.kubotausa.com

that may help you find the item you are trying to identify. You can probably also buy a paper version with better quality pictures.

 

[joesmith123]

That valve is probably draining the water from the engine and radiator.

Follow the fuel line to the pump and that will attach to the bleeding valve for the fuel.

You can see illustrated parts here

Kubota Tractor Corporation - Illustrated Parts List

- K-PAD - Parts Lists - Illustrated Parts Lists - diagrams

apps.kubotausa.com

that may help you find the item you are trying to identify. You can probably also buy a paper version with better quality pictures.

Yup I did find the fuel drain, it was above water drain, did confirm to let fuel out and it looked fine,

Right now, I’ll take off injectors and clean everything with gasoline, and do pressure test on each cylinder

 

[Russell King]

Yup I did find the fuel drain, it was above water drain, did confirm to let fuel out and it looked fine,

Right now, I’ll take off injectors and clean everything with gasoline, and do pressure test on each cylinder

Gasoline is dangerous to use. Use something like Berryman b12 spray cans or brake cleaner.

 

[joesmith123]

Am I correct when I make the statement:

since there is a tremendous difference in engine speed when compression valve is left and right, compression is most likely fine

 

[Russell King]

Since it is a three cylinder that assumption gets a maybe to probably from me.

If it started we would not even suspect low compression.

 

[joesmith123]

Update

Center cylinder, when injector pulled out, lots of oil everywhere,
other two, bone dry

Injectors look brand new, inside no build up, very clean, pictured

compression test: I tried adapting the kit to the injector and to the block, I dont see a way

Another detail: when oil was changed, there was zero signs of metal/shavings

My suspicion at this moment: center cylinder has bad piston ring and bogging engine down

The plan: figure out the fitting that screws into the block, adapt it the pressure gauge, and look up the factory spec of what the compression should be

Also potentially another issue: I did wire in a new key switch. Is there a wire that will allow ignition that maybe I did not connect somewhere

My understanding: power goes to starter and glow plugs only and there is no ignition power necessary. The starter turns the engine, engine spinning powers injection pump, injection pump puts high pressure diesel into chamber, correct me if I am wrong

 

[joesmith123]

Potential issue: one injector when taken apart had two generic washers instead of a flat solid sealing piece, pictured

 

[joesmith123]

fired right up after I put in the proper solid metal seal rather than the 2 washers pictured previously

 

[rbargeron]

fired right up after I put in the proper solid metal seal rather than the 2 washers pictured previously

Great that its 'sorta running'. What's the back story of this tractor? Is it new to you? Was it sold as having an ok engine? Was the hole in the exhaust manifold there when you got it? Pretty unusual. FYI the starter switch is wired to keep power to the glow plugs while it cranks.

 

[D2Cat]

You probably have the fitting in the compression kit to check the compression at the glow plugs.