I need to know if there is a way to grease the clutch linkage or throw-out bearing on an L2900. I thought it should be in the operators manual but I can't find it. Probably need a service manual instead. Very happy with my "new" 20 year old Kubota but the sticky clutch is a problem.
L2900 Sticking Clutch Pedal
- Thread starter joedw1956
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Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
looking at the parts manual (on the Kubota website) there is not any grease points on either of those parts.
You may want to try some penetrating oil (PB blaster, Kroil...) but there are oil seals on the shafts (outside of roller bearings) that may make it impossible to get past.
You may want to try some penetrating oil (PB blaster, Kroil...) but there are oil seals on the shafts (outside of roller bearings) that may make it impossible to get past.
I appreciate Russell trying to help me here but I am very disappointed that no one else has responded. I realize this is not a major issue but I would really like some feedback.
North Idaho Wolfman
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What more would you like us to say? 
Sounds like if you've greased the accessible pivot points and that's not helping then your looking at splitting the tractor and replacing some parts, Not really an in depth issue.
Sounds like if you've greased the accessible pivot points and that's not helping then your looking at splitting the tractor and replacing some parts, Not really an in depth issue.
You have diagnosed that it is the clutch pedal (or linkage?) or somehow the throw-out bearing.
The parts manual shows no grease Zerks according to Russell King. So that issue is out.
There are details that are left unknown:
>Does the clutch pedal stick in the down (disengaged) position?
>Does it stick every time?
>Is there roughness, or unevenness when depressed?
>How does it return to up (engaged)? By hand?
>Does the clutch remain disengaged regardless of where the pedal is positioned?
>Does it remain engaged regardless of the position?
>What other symptoms can you describe?
Responders need to know the answers to those questions before an intelligent diagnosis can be made.
Here is a stab in the dark: Remove the clutch pedal and linkage. Disassemble it on the workbench, clean up the linkage (use a shotgun cleaning rod and bronze brush on the tubes with Ed's Red as a solvent, wire wheel the rods, test for easy and smooth movement, lube all with grease, reassemble.
Then adjust the clutch pedal travel and test to make sure the spring is working as designed.
That should get things started.
The parts manual shows no grease Zerks according to Russell King. So that issue is out.
There are details that are left unknown:
>Does the clutch pedal stick in the down (disengaged) position?
>Does it stick every time?
>Is there roughness, or unevenness when depressed?
>How does it return to up (engaged)? By hand?
>Does the clutch remain disengaged regardless of where the pedal is positioned?
>Does it remain engaged regardless of the position?
>What other symptoms can you describe?
Responders need to know the answers to those questions before an intelligent diagnosis can be made.
Here is a stab in the dark: Remove the clutch pedal and linkage. Disassemble it on the workbench, clean up the linkage (use a shotgun cleaning rod and bronze brush on the tubes with Ed's Red as a solvent, wire wheel the rods, test for easy and smooth movement, lube all with grease, reassemble.
Then adjust the clutch pedal travel and test to make sure the spring is working as designed.
That should get things started.
Thank you Wolfman and GWD. This is all I was asking for and I didn't mean to whine.
The pedal has stuck in the down position. Not every time. I can bump it with my foot and it will release.
It is rough pushing and releasing. Very hard to get a smooth start.
May just be something I have to learn to live with.
The pedal has stuck in the down position. Not every time. I can bump it with my foot and it will release.
It is rough pushing and releasing. Very hard to get a smooth start.
May just be something I have to learn to live with.
This may seem like an inconvenience, but chances are its going to get worse and more expensive to repair. There isnt some sort of inspection cover you can remove?
That is good information. Now it definitely sounds like a linkage problem. You should be able to get under the tractor and unbolt the pedal and the tube that the pedal uses as a fulcrum. I don't have access to a WSM but Messicks Tractor can send you a diagram of the pedal.
Aw, heck, I did it for you. Here is the diagram. It looks to be quite straight forward. The return spring may be weak or corroded as well. Once you have it apart, then things will become clear.
While under the tractor you might want to try to operate the shaft that goes into the clutch housing. It is shown on the bottom left at the end of the cable. It could be hanging up in the clutch housing as it operates the throw out bearing.
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I'll try to upload the full "Clutch" PDF file from Messick's.
Nope, can't do it...just a bit too large.
If you PM me your email I'll send it or you can just go the Messick's website and have them send it to you by email (takes about a minute). Fill out the information box on the left of their page.
http://www.messicks.com/KubotaTractorParts.aspx
Nope, can't do it...just a bit too large.
If you PM me your email I'll send it or you can just go the Messick's website and have them send it to you by email (takes about a minute). Fill out the information box on the left of their page.
http://www.messicks.com/KubotaTractorParts.aspx
The clutch bearing is mounted on a sleeve that slides on a shaft that is bolted to the front of the trans. That sleeve and shaft gets dirty and rusty makeing it very hard to press the clutch pedal. Most tractors have an "inspection" hole in the bellhouseing that alighns with that bearing/sleeve and it has a grease fitting on it. Just don't overdo the grease, all the excess is subject to getting on the clutch.
I don't think the OP's tractor has the inspection hole, grease fitting, or bearings. Here is a copy of the bellhousing from the parts catalog.
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I did see a post or video that mentioned the inspection hole and grease fitting. That's why I was hoping it would be easy. I'm afraid that GWD is right though. Mine doesn't have it. Thanks again.
I am having the same sticky peddle with my L3300. Everything works fine but if I use the clutch I have the pull the peddle out manually with my foot every time. I checked the linkage and didn't see any issue. I'm tempted to order a new spring to see if that helps. Did you ever figure out what was causing the issue on yours? I
You're not going to like this, but a common problem with those tractors is the rod that goes across the bell housing gets bound up on the ends where it penetrates the housing. To remove it, you have to split the tractor and remove the clutch fork. Take a big punch and a big hammer and drive the rod out. Put a wire brush in your drill and clean the holes on each side, and the shaft. Grease it up good. I have fixed a few of these.
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Prikev, see the grease on the fork in the above picture posted by Motmow? You might try squirting some PB Blaster on the ends of that shaft on both sides and give it a couple of shots for a couple of days. Pump the clutch as you spray (going to need a helper for this). Might reduce the friction some, and make it livable.
Best way to figure cost for a shop to separate the tractor (and they'd probably replace the shaft) is to call a shop and ask. Takes all the guessing out.
If you know anyone who does this kind of work, you might ask them also. Separating a tractor is not really a complicated task, just takes some patience, time and room. But if that shaft actually needs to be straightened, or replaced you could be reassembling 10 minutes after it's apart.
I personally don't think that rod getting bent is a very likely scenario. Just spray something on each end and move the rod to get the juice all the way around it!!
Post back your results.
Best way to figure cost for a shop to separate the tractor (and they'd probably replace the shaft) is to call a shop and ask. Takes all the guessing out.
If you know anyone who does this kind of work, you might ask them also. Separating a tractor is not really a complicated task, just takes some patience, time and room. But if that shaft actually needs to be straightened, or replaced you could be reassembling 10 minutes after it's apart.
I personally don't think that rod getting bent is a very likely scenario. Just spray something on each end and move the rod to get the juice all the way around it!!
Post back your results.
Have run into this, well not often, but as a tech, you remember those type jobs due to their expense, downtime, and customer gripes.
Pull the left hood side off. Remove the pin from the clutch linkage. There's a bar that runs down to the bellhousing/clutch release area, then it's connected to the link that runs back up to the steering console. With the pin out of the linkages, move the pedal-if it's still stiff, then your issue is in the pedestal mounted clutch pedal pivot shaft. If the pedal is free, the issue lies in the bellhousing of the tractor, which means time to split it, pull the release (throwout) bearing, and it's fork, off of the shaft, then remove and clean the corrosion from both the shaft and the holes that it rides in.
My Massey 1145 is having same issues, mine is in BOTH the linkages AND the clutch release. Yay. Another project.
The release bearing shaft is about 3/4" diameter. It wouldn't take much to drill the ends of it and then drill a tiny intersecting hole so that grease can get to the pivot points. BUT, I don't remember if doing so would even be accessible from under the tractor? If it's not accessible, it would be wasted effort.
Pull the left hood side off. Remove the pin from the clutch linkage. There's a bar that runs down to the bellhousing/clutch release area, then it's connected to the link that runs back up to the steering console. With the pin out of the linkages, move the pedal-if it's still stiff, then your issue is in the pedestal mounted clutch pedal pivot shaft. If the pedal is free, the issue lies in the bellhousing of the tractor, which means time to split it, pull the release (throwout) bearing, and it's fork, off of the shaft, then remove and clean the corrosion from both the shaft and the holes that it rides in.
My Massey 1145 is having same issues, mine is in BOTH the linkages AND the clutch release. Yay. Another project.
The release bearing shaft is about 3/4" diameter. It wouldn't take much to drill the ends of it and then drill a tiny intersecting hole so that grease can get to the pivot points. BUT, I don't remember if doing so would even be accessible from under the tractor? If it's not accessible, it would be wasted effort.