L275 water in oil

[Bonaro]

I just picked up a Kubota L275 for cheap and I am in the process of figuring out why the water is in the oil. It runs fine, very smooth actually and look like the motor was replaced. However, if I cant fix this problem I will need to part it out.

First off, when I pour water in the radiator...it drains...directly to the crankcase. you can hear it gurgle and trickle. I am ruling out a head gasket or cracked head/block because these issues usually only seep water. This water pours right in.

I am in the process of pulling the front gear case cover and I hope to find a blown gasket behind it. Whoever worked on it last goobered the water pump gasket and the GC gasket with silicone really heavy. It has been my experience that these gaskets go on dry and silicone only makes them slippery and prone to pushing out.

Any opinions on how the water could just drain the the crankcase?

Next question...do I really have to pull the *&^% front axle off this &*%$# tractor just to remove this &%$# pulley???

Thanks is advance for the input

 

[coachgeo]

I just picked up a Kubota L27...

Do you have the WSM (Work shop manual) See sticky on how to try to get it if you don't. pretty sure that one is available.

Some other threads in here have pointed at some of these tractors having a freeze plug at the front of the engine... I believe under the front cover. Maybe that one is out..... which would possibly explain your issue.

 

[rbargeron]

The parts drawing shows a large freeze plug #10 inside the front gear case that could be rusted or pushed out, allowing coolant into the oil.

On some of these early L models with fwd, taking off the oil pan or front gear case means loosening or removing the bracket that holds the front axle. The good news is it may be a cheap fix if you don't count the hours of wrenching

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

#1, Yes you have to drop the axle to get the pulley off, and the front cover.
#2, Blown freeze plug under front cover is the most likely scenario.
Now if the front freeze plug is rusted out or even blown out it might be a good Idea to split the tractor as there is also another one on the rear of the motor that could have been pushed out also, and if it's just seeping it will cause you major issues too.

 

[Bonaro]

The guy I bought it from said that he thought there was a freeze plug behind the water pump. I hopeven this is it.
Thanks for the parts manual

 

[coachgeo]

The guy I bought it from said that he thought there was a freeze plug behind the water pump. I hopeven this is it.
Thanks for the parts manual

how to reach the parts manual pages online is in the sticky mentioned earlier. It is on Kubota's website as a free source and it is updated. No need to download that one.

 

[Russell King]

You have mentioned water pump a couple of times
Make sure you have a water pump since some of these are thermo syphon system. These have no water pump but the dyno is mistaken for a water pump.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You have mentioned water pump a couple of times
Make sure you have a water pump since some of these are thermo syphon system. These have no water pump but the dyno is mistaken for a water pump.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

That motor has a water pump.

 

[Bonaro]

Yes, I have a water pump,
I split the front end off the tractor last night, easier than I expected. I pulled the crank pulley and tonight I will pull the case and see what is going on.
Crossing my fingers for a blown case gasket or a pushed out freeze plug.

At this point with the tractor split it seems fairly easy to pull the oil sump off to scrub it out. When I drained the engine oil it was lumpy. Do you think I should pull the sump or just run it and change the oil a few times?

 

[Tooljunkie]

Yes, I have a water pump,
I split the front end off the tractor last night, easier than I expected. I pulled the crank pulley and tonight I will pull the case and see what is going on.
Crossing my fingers for a blown case gasket or a pushed out freeze plug.

At this point with the tractor split it seems fairly easy to pull the oil sump off to scrub it out. When I drained the engine oil it was lumpy. Do you think I should pull the sump or just run it and change the oil a few times?

I would pull it if its easy enough, then freeze plug chunks could be extracted too.

 

[Bonaro]

I would pull it if its easy enough, then freeze plug chunks could be extracted too.

There aren't any chunks of freeze plug in the sump, at least not from the front plug.

I pulled GC cover off and the intact plug was laying in the bottom. Apparently the previous owner was running straight water and it froze, pushing the plug out. Fortunately, the motor seems to have been overhauled fairly recently and there is not much rust on the plug.

My plan is to go ahead and replace the plug and reassemble the front of the motor. I can then pressure test the water side and it will tell me if the rear plug has pushed out and pulling the motor is required. I will have $75 in gaskets and seals but it may save me from pulling the motor if I dont need to. I am fairly confident it does not have a cracked block or head as well.

None of the other plugs were pushed out at all. My theory about the front plug pushing out is that
1. it didnt look like it was installed properly. and
2. the aluminum front housing may have radiated slightly more warmth out of the block when it froze, pushing that plug out. The rear plug is surrounded by cast iron and fuel tank therefore possibly a bit warmer...
<crossing fingers>

 

[Bonaro]

I found the parts manual from the sticky.
I am looking for a work shop manual or repair manual and cant find one I can download.

Do I have to buy the $80 paper version?

 

[D2Cat]

Freeze plugs don't break up and fall IN an engine block. They get pushed out of the block, in one piece. They are only pushed into the opening about 1/8" for just that purpose.

If you have access to someone (probably a shop owner) who has a radiator tester set up, you can attach it where your radiator cap goes, pump up the required pressure and see if it holds. Real easy and quick.

If you can't find the paper copy of the WSM and don't want to wait or spend the funds, just copy off the pages you're working on at the time from a down loadable one, and take to your work area.

 

[Bonaro]

Freeze plugs don't break up and fall IN an engine block. They get pushed out of the block, in one piece. They are only pushed into the opening about 1/8" for just that purpose.

If you have access to someone (probably a shop owner) who has a radiator tester set up, you can attach it where your radiator cap goes, pump up the required pressure and see if it holds. Real easy and quick.

If you can't find the paper copy of the WSM and don't want to wait or spend the funds, just copy off the pages you're working on at the time from a down loadable one, and take to your work area.

I cant find a downloadable version of the WSM, any suggestions?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I cant find a downloadable version of the WSM, any suggestions?

I sent you a link for the WSM.

Don't use the printed version of the parts manual as it is out of date and has old obsolete part #'s in it.
Go to http://kubota.com/part/partsList.aspx say yes to the legal at the bottom, put in your model # L275 and then use those pages for the parts.

The Numbers still might be out of date, so always keep an eye out for updated numbers when searching for parts.

 

[Bonaro]

Wolfman - got the link, thank you very much.

I placed an order today with Messicks for all the gaskets, o-rings and other misc parts I will need, need to add a few items to the list tomorrow. Remember this was a partially disassembles basket case when I winched it onto the trailer 3 weeks ago..I think I will have this on the road for under $150!

I need to replace the front wheel/tire.
Any suggestions about a tractor wrecking yard for this item?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I need to replace the front wheel/tire.
Any suggestions about a tractor wrecking yard for this item?

eBay can be your friend, look there.

 

[D2Cat]

Bonaro, if you have difficulty finding the wheel, there is a guy in Oregon, I think, who has some tractors for parts. He's good to deal with and honest. If you need info. I can look it up.

"basket cases" are the best deals, you just have to be willing to take a risk!

 

[coachgeo]

....Don't use the printed version of the parts manual as it is out of date and has old obsolete part #'s in it.
Go to http://kubota.com/part/partsList.aspx say yes to the legal at the bottom, put in your model # L275 and then use those pages for the parts.

The Numbers still might be out of date, so always keep an eye out for updated numbers when searching for parts.

mentioned this back in post #6.... but Wolf said it better than me

Sounds like your going to end up with a damn nice tractor for the money. Kudo's

 

[Bonaro]

mentioned this back in post #6.... but Wolf said it better than me

Sounds like your going to end up with a damn nice tractor for the money. Kudo's

Thanks for the info. I'm a fair mechanic but tractors are new to me

I bought the tractor with loader for $850. After my last parts order I have spent another $200 and I think I have all the parts needed to make this work plus a weekend in the garage. I am extremely happy with the deal I got.
Tractor supply has transmission fluid for a good price so I will be into this thing for under $1200

However, I ran into a snag today. It's still related to this tractor resurrection so I will add it to this thread instead of starting a new thread.
(thanks again for all of the superb help)

The steering is fubar. I ordered shaft bearings but the problem is I need all of the steel balls and the tubes that fit into the square ball nut assy (pic).
Kubota does not show the balls and tube only in their parts breakdown.
I called Messicks and they only sell the ball nut assy (with balls) for 400 bones!

Here is my question. I found the balls and tube on eBay but its listed as being for a L2600 with part number 34260-16201.
Messick does not show this part number.
Seller does not know if it will fit.

Will the above part number fit into my L275?
Are all kubota balls created equal?
If not, does anyone have a source for the balls and tubes?