L275 engine issue

[LeadHead]

I'm a new Kubota owner, having brought home my first one last night. It's a 1985 L275 with turf tires and most everything appears to be working, including the hydraulics.
It has one serious problem which I knew before the purchase and is the reason for being able to buy it so cheaply, and that is the fact that it threw a rod out the side of the block about a year ago. It appears that one of the bolts on the connecting rod cap (crank end) backed itself out, then the other one of course let go, knocking a 2 1/2" to 3" triangular hole in the block on the left side. The bottom edge of the triangle extends between the dip stick and the block bolt immediately in front of it, but fortunately neither hole appears to be damaged.
The good news is that it appears the crank journal also has not been damaged and I THINK the piston and cylinder wall are also ok. The tractor starts and runs surprisingly well and I was able to drive it on and off my trailer when loading and unloading it. It is now in my barn awaiting surgery.
I am currently looking for a used connecting rod for this engine and was wondering where the best salvage yard would be to find one for a reasonable price. Or, does anyone on this list have any used parts? My other question is whether or not I'll HAVE to find a replacement block or can I take this one to a welding shop and have a plate welded over the hole. Either way, I'll have to split the tractor and pull the engine to replace the connecting rod, correct? Any other suggestions?
I'm anxious to get this thing running so that I can be using it around the property, almost as anxious as my two boys, ages 12 and 5! Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[osut362]

i can't really offer any specific advice on your kubota as i'm not that familiar with your engine. i can tell you i had a similar problem with a ford 4000 once. it is, was a 40 or so hp, 4 cyl diesel. like you i bought the tractor with a cracked/broken block and it had a triangle broken out of the block in the water jacket. i used epoxy to fix the block and did an "in frame overhaul" of the engine. i used it for several years and later sold it back to the man i bought it from.....mabe you can "glue" your block back together? worked for me......al

 

[LeadHead]

Thanks for the input, Al. Happily, it appears that the water jacket has not been damaged, so that should simplify things. I have already been considering the epoxy solution that you used since it won't be under high pressure. Did you use JB Weld or something else?

 

[aquaforce]

NO!! The tractor will not have to be broken to get the rod out. If the crank has to get work done on it then the engine will have to come out.


The hardest epoxy solution that I am aware of and that I would trust is a product made by "Devcon" specifically for this kind of thing. It is called "Titanium Putty".
They also make "Aluminum Putty", "Steel Putty" and this Titanium. Machinist's use it for salvaging blocks, cranks, rods and other hard material modifications. I would use the Titanium in this case.

If you have a hard time getting it I can sell you some that I have. $110 + shipping.

 

[LeadHead]

Sounds like good stuff, but WOW!, I just looked it up online and is it ever expensive!
I found a comparable product from LocTite called FixMaster Superior Metal that actually appears to have even higher strength properties, but costs about the same. Has anyone had any experience with it?

 

[LeadHead]

One other question, Aquaforce, will the head even have to be pulled or can I replace the rod by just removing the oil pan?

 

[osut362]

i used jb weld. you could replace the rod without pulling the head...but you CAN NOT get the piston and rings in....pull the head. an in frame o.h. is rings & bearings, have the valves ground if you want to while the head is off. if you have to remove the crank you will have to split the tractor. if you split the tractor take a good look at the clutch, it will never be easier to get to.....al

 

[aquaforce]

One other question, Aquaforce, will the head even have to be pulled or can I replace the rod by just removing the oil pan?

The head will have to come off. Once the rod is loose from the crank it will have to go up through the block deck to come out.


Loctite makes good products also. I have used their "retaining compound" with super results but I haven't used this other material you found. It is probably good, especially if the strength properties are higher. Look at all their test properties to make sure it's breakdown is not subject to anything around the installation; oil, ethylene, etc.


These chemicals are pricey but cheaper than a new block.

 

[LeadHead]

Ok, so pull the head or don't pull the head? I didn't know if the wrist pin could be removed without pulling the piston out the top or not, that was my main concern. It's probably best to go ahead and inspect the bore with the piston out, anyway, to play it safe.
As for the chemicals, here are links to the technical datasheets for both JB Weld and LocTite Superior Metal:

LocTite - http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/3478-EN.PDF
JB Weld - http://wagner-motors.com/applicatio...ts/JB8265 - J-B Weld-Epoxy Technical Data.pdf

Hmm, I just noticed that JB Weld has twice the temperature resistance, though. 500F degrees vs. 250F on the LocTite. Sounds like it might be the better candidate, all things considered.
I have read that Belzona Super Metal (1111) is another product that is supposed to be even better. Here's the spec sheet: http://www.belzona-bsn.de/downloads/1111ps.pdf

What do you guys think? It appears to me that JB Weld just may be the ticket, unless I'm missing something here.

 

[aquaforce]

Yes pull the head. There is no other way!




Lots of chemicals to choose from decissions decissions decissions