L2650 - Clutch or PTO?

[BELLC]

(Vic, I found this site from Google when searching Kubota clutches and read some of the suggestions.)

A few months back, my clutch on my L2650 froze. I had to pop it against a hard object (a tree I think) to break it free. It worked. Still though, the clutch pedal makes a lot of noise when I press the pedal down. It was pretty quiet before.

But here's the thing - when I hook up my bushhog and engage the PTO, the PTO kicks back out and disengages itself under the slightest load. If there is no implement hooked up, it engages and stays engaged, spinning freely.

So I think somehow these two are connected. The problem is my local Kubota dealer doesn't have a real good tech at the moment so I'm kind of scared to let them have a crack at diagnosing this. I haven't found a good Ag Tech but I'm not even sure if this needs to be split.

Any guidance is truly appreciated!!!

 

[BELLC]

Even a wild guess would be a good starting point.

 

[BELLC]

Thanks for the assist, Vic.

I looked up my SN on this L2650DT-7 and checked the Operator's Manual, Specifications page. Under the L2650 column for clutch it says, "Dry Type Dual Stage Live PTO, Dry type Single Stage or WET type single stage 8 plates" which really doesn't tell me what I have. In fact, I have no clue what that means at all. (SN is 62113).

I have a WM for this that I bought when I got the tractor. I'm trying to find the procedure for splitting and accessing the clutch. Is a "dual clutch pack" you spoke of and a "dual stage clutch" the same thing?

 

[BELLC]

Well, I finally had the money and found an ag guy to work on my L2650. I bought a dual clutch off ebay and had him put it in and ... it didn't work. The PTO lever still jumps out of the 540 RPM position back to neutral with a light knocking sound when the PTO is engaged.

Worse, now the hitch bars won't lift but power steering works so I'm thinking this new issue may not be hydraulics but I'm not sure. Odd thing here is that I can just lift the bars with my hands easily with no resistance, something I could not do before. Logically, I looked at the visible linkage and all seems to be okay though the control lever to raise/lower the 3-point hitch seems really stiff and hard to move.

Ideas? I really need help here. I'm back to square one though I do have a new dual clutch assembly.

 

[BELLC]

You're just full of good news, aren't you, Vic?

And what's a "schwack"? ...

Regarding the full range of motion of the PTO lever -- it goes easily between the 1100 setting and the 540 setting with neutral seeming to be exactly where it is supposed to be. Removing the cover plate and holding it to the right seems to do nothing. That slight knocking though -- what could that be?

The canister filter - does that twist off like a regular oil filter and in the same "lefty-loosey, righty-tighty" manner? The reason I ask is the ag guy thought about the priming as well but couldn't get the canister off with a regular oil filter wrench. It kept slipping even with stuff wedged under the ring and could not get a good grip. Should we put a wrench on the welded nut?

 

[BELLC]

So, if that canister is empty, we just fill it with fluid and put it back on and that is the priming process? Uh-oh. Isn't the canister the dark gray one hanging down on the right side of the tractor?

And if I get one of those cams, what exactly am I looking for and where do I stick it in? Through the rear PTO fluid filler cap?

 

[BELLC]

Can anyone answer these for me? Thanks in advance!!!

 

[BELLC]

Vic,

The 3-point hitch issue was hydraulic and is working now. Thanks!!!

The bigger issue is still the PTO lever jumping out of the engaged position and the force is so great it can't be tied down or even held with my foot. It stays engaged and spins fine with no implement, but is knocking hard when we hook up any bushhog, forcing the lever back to the neutral position.

The ag mechanic who just changed the dual-clutch assembly told me we should have changed a clutch plate while it was open (is there another plate besides the dual assembly that I need to get ???? ).

More importantly, he thinks the lever disengaging is a transmission issue and wants to go in below the steering column. He thinks it might be a worn spline.

I guess I'm stupid here, but is his thinking logical, that the problem is up front and not in the housing with the rear-end gear at the back?

 

[BELLC]

Any chance this L2650 has a mid PTO as well? can you check that an see if it's engagement lever is not halfway between on and off?

No, I don't believe it does. I do know that it isn't equipped for a belly mower and the only place to hook up a spinning implement is in back.

Does that help?

 

[BELLC]

Broken splines on the PTO gear. Now the ag tech, who admitted after he had split the tractor that he never worked on a Kubota before, left me with a whole bunch more problems, like, the temp gauge needle points straight south after he removed the dash, bolts are missing everywhere, loader bolts were put in backwards so the FEL pivot/supports wouldn't get back in its cradle until I changed all the bolts and nuts to face the other way, etc.

So I'm ALMOST back in business. See next post. But thank you to all for your magnificaent guidance. I can't tell you how educational this was for me and my wallet. Total with new dual stage clutch, clutch plate, 2 bearings and two PTO gears wasright at $2300.00 US.