removed everything except the studs from the head. head is still on the block. we have pried,tapped, and lifted but no seperation from block.do studs have to be double-nutted and removed also? any advice will be greatly appreciated.
L260 head removal by new owner--HELP
- Thread starter stevej725
- Start date
I'm about completely stumped. We took off all 9 nuts and the head won't budge. We tried to lift it with a come-a-long on an overhead beam and the whole front end started to lift. It's been soaking with penetrating oil around the studs for two days. The head still won't budge. If the gasket is still holding it that tight then NASA needs that sucker for building space vehicles.
Sounds like you missed something --- shouldn't be that hard to pull. Are you working from a manual that tells you where all the nuts and bolts are??
Vic, I was pulling a brush hog running 2000 in 2 high ,PTO at 4th. It started pulling hard. I raised the 3 point hitch thinking I was dragging. Still pulling hard. I kicked in the clutch,threw the PTO out of gear. The motor died. It's locked up tight.pulled the access on the bottom right after draining fluids. Didn't see anything broken or any filings in the oil. That's why we're trying to pull the head.Guess I'll pull the studs(I was replacing them anyway, I've never re-used them in a gas engine and my understanding is that diesels develop a lot more pressure). I'll probably be pestering you again as I'm new to diesels and my friends that are helping on this are almost as lost as me.
Finally got the head off.Pistons seem to be in place and in one piece.I'd be scratching the hair on top of my head in consternation except that there's nothing there to scratch.I'm guessing my next move will be to drop the pistons and see if the crank is snafued?
Hi there,
Have you tried to rotate the crank now with the head off using the front crank bolt? If so, how difficult?
Have you tried to rotate the crank now with the head off using the front crank bolt? If so, how difficult?
Engine slowing down then stopping suggests to me either the cooling system wasn't coping, allowing the enginge to overheat and seize up, which I think you would notice, or the oil pump quit lubricating for some reason.
Did any warning lights come on? Or was it just gradual bogging down?
I would try to turn the crank like Kytim suggested.
Robert
Did any warning lights come on? Or was it just gradual bogging down?
I would try to turn the crank like Kytim suggested.
Robert
It's a very used tractor I bought. I check the fluids religiously 'cause there are no functioning warning lights. I did replace the headlights , trees in the dark are very solid.
It turns now with the head off. No resistance until the front piston is about 1/4 inch from the top,then a slight resistance is felt. My friend is thinking a possible bent piston rod? He thinks our best bet at this point is to pull the front piston and see if that eliminates all resistance, I'm guessing if it does I would be replacing the front rod. Any and all comments and suggestions are appreciated.
I'm up to my neck in alligators it seems.The crank either needs replaced or machined,(I'm thinking replaced so bearings don't have to be oversized),new rods,wrist pins,head gasket,head studs and nuts, searching the net for parts or whole engine.Call to local Kubota dealer gives news that crank and many other parts are not available through Kubota. Must be a really old tractor.
It seems that my old Kubota L260 is so obsolete that parts are almost impossible to obtain. I have been told by several people that the best course for me is to re-assemble it as is and sell to a collector who will either have others available for parts, or have more spare time and resources to scrounge up parts.At this time ,I have to agree with them. The Kubota was a good tractor but in the future I think sticking with newer machines will be less frustrating when it comes time to find parts.