L2501 won't start, acts like safety switch

jeff neumann

New member

Equipment
L2501
May 6, 2025
5
6
3
Ohio
Im new and desperate for help. As the title says, I have an L2501 and it won't start. Turning the key gives me the solonoid click, but no starter. Jumping the starter wires (hotwiring) works and starts the tractor, so I am naturally thinking its a safety switch problem. So far all switches seem to be working correctly. I have checked fuses, and battery. What am I missing?

IMPORTANT ADDITION:

Right before the problem started, a big piece of wood hit the rear bonnet, hard enough to crack the bezel covering the display panel. It didn't seem to do any other damage, but is there a way (without removing the bonnet) to know if the problem could be in there, or could it be in there? Removing that bonnet looks like a pia and I don't want to if I don't have to. (I realize that sounds lazy, I'm OK with it).

Any and all help appreciated.
 

Russell King

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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
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Austin, Texas
It sounds like there isn’t enough power getting to the spade terminal to get the starter spinning.

I assume that your method of hot-wiring is positive cable end shorted to the solenoid spade terminal.

You can try to figure out which safety switch is dropping the power too much or add a relay that is closed by the (black with white stripe?) wire currently attached to the solenoid spade terminal.

This site seems to explain how it works on cars. I believe that John Deere sells a kit that you can use if you don’t want to make your own.

 
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jimh406

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Kubota L2501 with R4 tires
Jan 29, 2021
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The HST safety switch is in that general location. Take a look at this thread. It won't be hard to check in any case.

 
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Runs With Scissors

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L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Jan 25, 2023
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Michigan
Because you hear the 'click", and jumping the solenoid works; My first action would be to look for a bad ground or corroded connection.

It sure sounds to me, like it's not getting enough "juice".
 
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johnjk

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B3200 w/loader, Woods RC5 brush hog, 4' box blade, tooth bar, B1700 MMM,
Apr 13, 2017
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West Mansfield, OH
It sounds like there isn’t enough power getting to the spade terminal to get the starter spinning.

I assume that your method of hot-wiring is positive cable end shorted to the solenoid spade terminal.

You can try to figure out which safety switch is dropping the power too much or add a relay that is closed by the (black with white stripe?) wire currently attached to the solenoid spade terminal.

This site seems to explain how it works on cars. I believe that John Deere sells a kit that you can use if you don’t want to make your own.

+1 on adding a relay. I fought a similar issue with my B1700. All safety switches checked good but I was dropping voltage across them to the point where the starter would not engage. Adding the relay is fairly simple and I have not had a starting issue since. I ended up ordering a relay with plug and cables off Amazon hat worked great. Came in a 2 pack as well.
 
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jeff neumann

New member

Equipment
L2501
May 6, 2025
5
6
3
Ohio
Many thanks for all the posts.

I like this idea of not getting enough juice to the starter, I haven't investigated that yet. I will begin as soon as I post this reply.

As to the "adding a relay" idea, are you saying to put what would amount to a pushbutton start on the starter? If so, I had considered it, but thought I was crazy. If I'm misunderstanding, please clarify.

As to the HST switch, I had run across that thread about someone having a similar problem. I have removed that switch, tested it on and off the machine. I'm convinced It's not that switch (for now).

I'm starting to wonder If a wire came loose or was cut by that piece of wood that hit the tractor. If such a wire was Popped off the ignition switch, do you guys think it would cause these symptoms? (Can you tell I really don't want to remove that bonnet?)

Thanks again all
 

Russell King

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
5,958
1,755
113
Austin, Texas
As to the "adding a relay" idea, are you saying to put what would amount to a pushbutton start on the starter? If so, I had considered it, but thought I was crazy. If I'm misunderstanding, please clarify.
Yes that is it sort of.

The relay is installed instead of the pushbutton switch and is activated by the key switch. The relay is a remotely activated switch. So you would run a wire from the battery positive to the relay and then from the relay to the solenoid spade connector. Then the wire that is from the key switch hooks to the relay and then the relay is grounded.

Turning the key to the cranking position feeds power to one side of the relay and closes the switch in the relay and feeds power to the solenoid terminal. Then starter should crank engine. Release the key, relay switch opens and starter will stop spinning.

Your pushbutton switch is the power switch side of the relay, your finger pushing the button is the key switch wiring.

But this will only work if the key switch is actually getting some power to the end of the wire connected to the solenoid spade connection. That has to happen to “push the button”.
 
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