Looking at an L2501 for a small horse farm. I'll be using it for manure management, a little bit of woods work, fence work, snow blowing, dragging a horse arena, and bush hogging a 2 acre field, all very flat. Do I need to get the rear tires filled? Would the extra weight be a con on nicer grass and dragging the arena?
L2501 Weighted Tires
- Thread starter PilotRPI
- Start date
Personal preference I like weighted tires as I used my loader everyday almost and the added weight helps out in the rear. Not sure if you use a loader or not. You can always try it out and then go back if it does not work for you.
You will need rear ballast (preferably a ballast box) for any type of serious FEL work.
SDT
If you get the tractor with ag tires they will cut into a lawn and leave their mark. If you get tires for the lawn your traction will suffer and ballast would probably be a good idea. I have ag tires on my L2501 and mow up and down hills with no issues - no ballast. I move dirt with no problems though at times I am in four wheel drive to make it happen. You can always try your tractor unweighted and add weight later if needed.
You certainly shouldn't need them with a rear blade, blower, or rotary cutter on the back. And having loaded rear tires alone won't offset a loader/grapple, etc. so I'd forgo filling them, you can always fill them later if for some reason you feel that'd help.
I chose to not fill my tires. I do use a ballast box or rear implement when only using my FEL and for doing anything with an implement on the rear I'm glad not to have the additional weight..... especially going up a grade. All air rides better, and also happy not to have to think about dealing with a puncture in a tire filled up with liquid.
I'd agree.
One of the benefits of rear ballast that's behind the rear wheels is that it acts as a pivot, it actually unweights the front wheels, as it's behind the rear axle. Smaller tractors have relatively light front axles, so if you're working your loader hard, having counter weight reduces the wear and load on that relatively weaker component.
(I say all that knowing that I'm often too lazy to put my ballast box on my BX, and work my loader hard anyway. It hasn't broken yet)
Last 3 tractors have had filled R4's. Plus most of the time there's either a RFM, blade, blower or something else on the 3PH. I always mow the yard with the loader removed. No ill effects.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
I detest(ok, HATE) calcium filled tires. It's ruined(ok DESTROYED) 6 of 8 original PA rims for my D-14s( $$$$$ !!). Replacing 55 year old rims is very,very costly,repairing can take 1-2 weeks if done right. Maybe, maybe if you're the first one to add it, done 100% proper and maintained and NONE of the saltwater ever comes out, the rims may surive. Get a thorn or nail into a filled rear and ,well, that's 'game over'.....
I've kept the BH on my BX23S as 'ballast' as I use the loader a lot with both bucket and pallet forks, haven't need any extra weight out back. I can see using a ballast box as your best choice as it'll come off for 'grass mtce mode'. The BBox can be compact(close to tractor) for easy manuovering.
I've kept the BH on my BX23S as 'ballast' as I use the loader a lot with both bucket and pallet forks, haven't need any extra weight out back. I can see using a ballast box as your best choice as it'll come off for 'grass mtce mode'. The BBox can be compact(close to tractor) for easy manuovering.
I'm thinking if I am doing FEL work, I'll most likely have the BH on as well, so that should take care of the ballast issue. If I take the BH off for something like arena dragging, that implement is so light I could have the FEL on or off and it wouldn't matter. So it sounds like I don't need them filled just for adding weight. The L2501 probably weighs more without filled tires than the B2650 with rears filled anyway.
They use beat juice now instead of calcium or antifreeze. They tell me it won't freeze, won't corrode, and won't kill livestock if it leaks out. Might act like salad dressing on the grass if anything. Says he's been installing them with that for about 10-15 years and no issues reported.
Thanks everyone!
They use beat juice now instead of calcium or antifreeze. They tell me it won't freeze, won't corrode, and won't kill livestock if it leaks out. Might act like salad dressing on the grass if anything. Says he's been installing them with that for about 10-15 years and no issues reported.
Thanks everyone!
Rim Guard (beet juice) is the "preferred" ballast these days for the reasons that you mention.
I avoid liquid ballast in favor of cast iron and/or ballast boxes partially because I repair/change my own tires and have no provision for handling any type of liquid ballast.
A thorn puncture can be plugged in an air filled tubeless tire but not in a tire filled with any type of liquid.
A failure of a tire filled with Rim Guard is a real mess.
SDT
Yes, you beat me to it. If I had gone with the L I would not have filled them and would have just used 3 pt ballast for FEL work.
I went wheel weights. 60# each. Can have up to 3 sets on each side. I currently have just 2 helps with some more traction. Still would use something on back for loader work.
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2 each side I should have put. Think I'll get last set at my 50 hr service. 180# each side should help some. Plus not having to worry about puncture and losing fluid.
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Jchonline
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Kubota L6060, KX040-4, M7060, RTV X1100C, M62 (sold)
For what you have described I would say you dont have a bunch of ground engaging tasks so the rears loaded isnt a big deal. If you are doing loader work just keep the rotary cutter on it for ballast, or get a ballast box for the 3PT.
If you had a rear blade, or a box blade, or tilled a bunch, or did dirt work all the time then maybe.
If you had a rear blade, or a box blade, or tilled a bunch, or did dirt work all the time then maybe.
If I'm using the FEL, I'll probably have the BH on at the same time. If just the FEL, maybe moving some very light loads of manure, but not dirt or gravel or anything without something on the back. If I move snow, I'll have the blower on the 3pt. My driveway is long but level.
Mine are weighed. There’s a difference in ride quality between weighted and not weight too IMO.
I normally leave an implement on when doing FEL work, but if space doesn’t allow it, it’s nice to have the tires filled too.
And THIS is the reason for a rear ballast. Your tractor front end is designed to carry the load of the tractor and the motor. Adding a FEL and everything in it put undue wear on the front end and steering components and makes the tractor harder to operate. Your tractor manual will indicate what ballast is suggested for your FEL.
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