L2501 Tach Quit

[Shadetree03]

Getting used to operating the 2501 HST and like the smooth start and operation of the HST. Just little peeved that the tack quit with a little less than 20 hrs. I noticed it not working just after a wide open throttle run down the lane...probably the only time I opened 'er up since its still new.

Haven't found a fuse blown, and everything else including fuel gauge works, so I don't want to hire the shop to come out and drag it in to fix. Is the sending unit on the alternator an easy change out? For some reason, I can't seem to get the plastic wire connector to unsnap where it connects just 6 inches from the alternator. Suggestions?

 

[Daren Todd]

If its a squeeze connector to release the quick connect. Try squeeze then push followed by a pull. Sometime the locking tab has some pressure on the plastic tab and won't release till the pressure is relieved off from it.

Check the voltage while running and make sure the alternator is charging. If the tach runs off the alternator, then it's reading a pulse count. If the alternator isn't charging then it's not gonna give the tach a pulse count.

If alternator isn't charging, then you need to check power in on the big wire at the alternator. And also check voltage with the key switch on to one of the small wires attaching to the alternator. This excites the alternator and tells it to charge. If your not getting power to one of those wires while engine is running, then the alternator will not work.

Small wire not getting power is most likely a blown fuse or bad connection in a quick connect on the wiring harness. Or bad diode if equipped inline on the wire.

Large wire not supplying power to alternator is most likely a bad connection where the terminal is crimped to the wire. Or bad slow blow fuse installed on the wire.

If alternator is charging. Then it's a power or ground issue to the tach. Power could be a bad fuse, or bad/ loose connection.

 

[Shadetree03]

Thanks Darren,

Its a little cold today to be working outside but it should warm up by the end of the week. I'll print out your suggestions and check a few things then and hopefully let you know what works..

 

[Forvols]

If its new isn't it covered under warranty? call your dealer see if they would send someone out.

 

[eserv]

Getting used to operating the 2501 HST and like the smooth start and operation of the HST. Just little peeved that the tack quit with a little less than 20 hrs. I noticed it not working just after a wide open throttle run down the lane...probably the only time I opened 'er up since its still new.

Haven't found a fuse blown, and everything else including fuel gauge works, so I don't want to hire the shop to come out and drag it in to fix. Is the sending unit on the alternator an easy change out? For some reason, I can't seem to get the plastic wire connector to unsnap where it connects just 6 inches from the alternator. Suggestions?

The L2501 hst has a mechanical tachometer. check cable and attachment point at front of engine. I think it is dealer time!

 

[lugbolt]

Previous post was correct. The tach on the L2501 is mechanical, has a cable that runs from the engine to the tachometer itself. Either it's come loose at the engine or at the back of the tachometer. Could be either one. If it's on the engine and not loose, follow it up where it goes near the fuel tank and try to pull on it a little. If it pulls easily, it's come off of the back of the tach. Both ends of the cable are identical in that they just have a screwed on cap of sorts that holds the cable onto either the engine or the tach.

That's assuming that the remote possibilities of a frozen cable, frozen/broken tach, broken cable, crate damaged or assembly tech damaged, or something else odd like that...it's probably just come off due to an assembly line error. Seen it before on some L3200's.

 

[savoy9020]

One of the main reasons I bought the L2501HST.. Everything is mechanical..

 

[mikester]

Previous post was correct. The tach on the L2501 is mechanical, has a cable that runs from the engine to the tachometer itself. Either it's come loose at the engine or at the back of the tachometer. Could be either one. If it's on the engine and not loose, follow it up where it goes near the fuel tank and try to pull on it a little. If it pulls easily, it's come off of the back of the tach. Both ends of the cable are identical in that they just have a screwed on cap of sorts that holds the cable onto either the engine or the tach.

That's assuming that the remote possibilities of a frozen cable, frozen/broken tach, broken cable, crate damaged or assembly tech damaged, or something else odd like that...it's probably just come off due to an assembly line error. Seen it before on some L3200's.

If it’s mechanical then your tach cable spring broke. It’s a cheap and easy fix and you can do it yourself. I went through a couple of them on my old tractor. The cable is just a long coil spring in a metal tube and it eventually fatigues.

 

[Shadetree03]

from Lugbolt "Could be either one. If it's on the engine and not loose, follow it up where it goes near the fuel tank and try to pull on it a little. If it pulls easily, it's come off of the back of the tach. Both ends of the cable are identical in that they just have a screwed on cap of sorts that holds the cable onto either the engine or the tach."

Okay, I think I located the tube that may hold the cable from the right angle drive at the front of the engine. Tube extends along right of the engine and then squeezes between the fuel tank to another right angle I believe behind the plastic cluster. Its 3 degrees this morning in the shed, so probably wait until it warms up to try to get the cluster loose enough to detach. The tube didn't pull free at either end, so maybe its the flex cable inside?

Anyone have a part number for a cable or cluster for the L2501? Thanks for the ideas and suggestions. May have to pull the steering wheel to get at it.

 

[Shadetree03]

Front end of cable was easy to get off, the end behind the cluster will have to wait until the new cable TC420-34653 gets here. Dealer is sending it direct - 22.87. When I pulled the end out of the sending unit, only the spade end fell out. The rest of the spring cable is blind with the cable housing and will have to see if the tachometer is free, when I get the new cable. Thinking about prelubing with cable spray lube and a little squirt of oil on the right angle sending drive. Seems strange that the cable should twist off at less than 20 hours...

 

[mikester]

Front end of cable was easy to get off, the end behind the cluster will have to wait until the new cable TC420-34653 gets here. Dealer is sending it direct - 22.87. When I pulled the end out of the sending unit, only the spade end fell out. The rest of the spring cable is blind with the cable housing and will have to see if the tachometer is free, when I get the new cable. Thinking about prelubing with cable spray lube and a little squirt of oil on the right angle sending drive. Seems strange that the cable should twist off at less than 20 hours...

I remember reading somewhere not to use lube on the spring because it can cause other problems. The breakage is due to fatigue like when you bend a paper clip back and forth many times- it work hardens then breaks. Lube doesn’t help. Check the cable tube that there’s no binding or sharp corners due to an over tightened tie strap or something.

 

[Shadetree03]

Beautiful warm day for a change, so I got a chance to pull the cowl off the cluster and unbolt the 4 - 10 mm head screws that hold the cluster in place. Didn't have to pull the steering wheel and with warm flexible fingers I could still get to the tach cable housing and unscrew the barrel nut from the right angle drive. Loosened the zip tie and snaked the cable out from the bundle and then could get the cable out and shake it. The spring wire core fell out - no problem. I guess if I could have shook the tractor on its side, the cable might have fell out on its own.. haha. Oh well, now its back together and waiting on the new core spring cable to slip into place ; square end first toward the dash, and then slip the spade end in to engage the tab on the front of the engine. The cable now has a nice smooth bow since it is free from the zip tie!!

 

[Shadetree03]

Re: L2501 Tach Quit - new core cable installed

I remember reading somewhere not to use lube on the spring because it can cause other problems. The breakage is due to fatigue like when you bend a paper clip back and forth many times- it work hardens then breaks. Lube doesn’t help. Check the cable tube that there’s no binding or sharp corners due to an over tightened tie strap or something.

Cable came yesterday. Slid the new core into the cable from the engine end and tested with the cordless drill with slip clutch on setting 1. Had to reverse drill then WA LA tach started moving and speed drill up to 1000-1500 rpm and looked good with no hitchs or fluctuations. Slipped the slotted end of the cable onto the engine drive spade end and finger tightened the cable housing and all's good. Cable now has a longer bend since it's free from the tight zip tie, so hopefully its good for a long life

 

[lugbolt]

I wonder if there may have been some water up inside the cable at some point? If it froze, and you started the engine, could have easily broken the end of it. Dunno. I rarely see those tractors back in the shop for anything but oil changes.

 

[35chevypu]

mine quit today with 164 hours. pulled cable off drive on front of injector pump and found drive cable broke 2 inches up inside cable housing. time for new cable. time to see if covered by warranty but i doubt it. will try to rout different it has pretty tight bend out of drive adapter back towards dash

 

[Shadetree03]

Thats about where mine broke, Chevy. It was easy enough to just order the cable and put it in myself, although your dealer should warranty it for you.. I also removed a cable tie that lets the cable housing bow out a little more naturally, and hopefully lets it flex easier.

 

[35chevypu]

i figure i can change it and save trip to dealer for repair cable is reasonable enough and that way i can make sure it is installed in a better manner and hopefully not break again

 

[35chevypu]

how does the cowl come off? the 4 bolts i see in the front and is there some in rear? i know the column boot slides up and there's 1 bolt above cluster.

 

[Shadetree03]

how does the cowl come off? the 4 bolts i see in the front and is there some in rear? i know the column boot slides up and there's 1 bolt above cluster.

Thats about it,,, if I remember just those 2 on each side and the dash bolt or two. I think one was below boot on the panel. Then there was enough room to slide the cowling up, and either get to the back of the desplay, or to loosen the display cluster machine screws to get a pair of needle nose pliers and loosen the cable end. Just take your time and once the cable is loose, the core should shake out. Then just slide the new core in or replace the whole cable housing and button it back up

 

[35chevypu]

did mine this weekend pretty simple once you figure out console and cluster removal. found it easier to tuck steering column boot through console and then had more room to get at cluster. thanks for info