L2501 oil change at 200 or 400 hours?

[Virtual Guy]

While doing the service I noticed the coolant is at the bottom line. The only thing I have is John Deere Cool Gard. Will that be okay in my Kubota?

Aaaaand....go!

For what it's worth that's a real scenario at the moment.

 

[mattwithcats]

Oil filter use Wix 51515 or 2 quart version 51773
Look on Rock Auto for good prices…

I suggest full synthetic Shell Rotella T6 in 5W-40…

 

[jyoutz]

I always change oil annually no matter the use.

 

[woodman55]

Messick's has a couple of videos, where Neil cuts open different brands of engine oil filters and compares them. They are quite interesting.

 

[The Evil Twin]

I change the oil on a new engine after starting up with a new break in oil and filter. On my tractor, I changed the oil at 50 hours and then once a year or every 100 hours. Oil and filters are inexpensive compared to replacing an engine.
Toyota recommends changing oil at 10,000 miles, and if you watch this video you will learn why you shouldn't follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

That looks like an issue with the oil they used. Not the interval at which they changed it. It doesn't seem to be up to the task. After looking at the damage (as best as I could on a laptop) and seeing it is primarily the outboard cylinders, that also lends to an oil supply issue. Excessive idling, especially when cold, can reduce oil supply. Combined with wall washing (gas condensing on the cylinder wall and diluting any oil film), it can lead to wearing of the bore.
I've been changing the oil in my wife's (now daughters) VW every 10k for the last 19 years and 245k miles. Last compression test when I changed the timing belt was in spec. Eats about 3/4 of a liter between changes. Been that way since day 1. However, I use better oil than the dealer does.

 

[Virtual Guy]

Messick's has a couple of videos, where Neil cuts open different brands of engine oil filters and compares them. They are quite interesting.

I've watched some of those videos. Interesting to watch for sure but I'm not sure what it proves. I can learn that the XXX filter has a steel whatever but I really don't have proof that it's better. Probably a safe assumption, but not really proof.

I would think that comprehensive oil analyses after 15-20k miles would tell me a lot more. Also if possible, if the filter media was still working or was the bypass valve open. That might be hard to test but it would sure say a lot. Even then it really needs to be a sample over dozens of cars, not one.

Once an engineer always an engineer I guess

That looks like an issue with the oil they used. Not the interval at which they changed it. It doesn't seem to be up to the task. After looking at the damage (as best as I could on a laptop) and seeing it is primarily the outboard cylinders, that also lends to an oil supply issue. Excessive idling, especially when cold, can reduce oil supply. Combined with wall washing (gas condensing on the cylinder wall and diluting any oil film), it can lead to wearing of the bore.
I've been changing the oil in my wife's (now daughters) VW every 10k for the last 19 years and 245k miles. Last compression test when I changed the timing belt was in spec. Eats about 3/4 of a liter between changes. Been that way since day 1. However, I use better oil than the dealer does.

I don't know engines as well as you but that sounds more reasonable. I sure won't let one video convince me that one of the world's largest manufacturer of very reliable engines is giving advice that destroys them. I too follow the 10k oil change routine and haven't seen convincing reason to change that.

 

[DustyRusty]

While doing the service I noticed the coolant is at the bottom line. The only thing I have is John Deere Cool Gard. Will that be okay in my Kubota?

Aaaaand....go!

Not familiar with Deere Cool Gard but personally I never mix coolants. Read this article that discusses coolants. Might be more information that you want, but it will educate you and knowledge is power.

The Coolant Color Conundrum - Fluid Life

Coolants come in a rainbow of colors, but since there's no industry color standard, it makes coolant system maintenance more challenging.

www.fluidlife.com

 

[Virtual Guy]

Not familiar with Deere Cool Gard but personally I never mix coolants. Read this article that discusses coolants. Might be more information that you want, but it will educate you and knowledge is power.

The Coolant Color Conundrum - Fluid Life

Coolants come in a rainbow of colors, but since there's no industry color standard, it makes coolant system maintenance more challenging.

www.fluidlife.com

Thanks for the link, that is informative! I'm not really inclined to mix them which is why I even mentioned it here. If someone happened to have proof that JD and Kubota rebranded the exact same stuff then I might consider it. But I'll probably just get myself to a Kubota dealer for some.

 

[Mak65]

I have the same tractor as OP. I change the oil and filter every 50 hours. I just passed 150 hours. Took about 14 months each to get to 50 and 100 so a bit over a year between changes. Took far less than a year for the last 50. And, I expect that to be the more expected time frame now.

I keep it simple with OEM filters and Kubota oil (already at dealer getting filter). Since I change it every 50 hours I see no reason to do synthetic. I might consider it if I planned to run it longer between changes.

 

[thebicman]

For me and the cold winters we have I switched to full synthetic after the break in was done. Sorry for going off topic.

 

[DustyRusty]

If I didn't use synthetic oil in my tractor, it would take forever before it would start when the temperatures drop to 10 degrees below zero. I guess that isn't a problem in Texas, except once every 50 or 60 years.

 

[Virtual Guy]

Still check your front axle....

I'm relieved to report that the front axle is full of what appears to be clean oil. Thanks for the heads up!

 

[old and tired]

I'm relieved to report that the front axle is full of what appears to be clean oil. Thanks for the heads up!

Very good to know that this *might* be a thing of the past...

 

[Bark]

Oil and filters are inexpensive compared to replacing an engine.
Toyota recommends changing oil at 10,000 miles, and if you watch this video you will learn why you shouldn't follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

Absolutely a great video. Most people wont watch it because of its length. I have a 1986 Subaru with 285K miles on the engine. Car is rusting up, radio and other things don't work well anymore but because of staying on top of oil changes the engine still runs great.

 

[jkrubi12]

Absolutely a great video.

I TOTALLY agree!

In fact, I have now watched a bunch of The Car Care Nut videos (never heard of his channel before) and I'm a huge fan! What a nice shop! Awesome mechanic!
Thanks for posting @DustyRusty!

 

[The Evil Twin]

Just a thought...
Most car (I know, not the exact same as a tractor) manufacturers say XXX miles or 1 year for OCIs. Both of my wife's cars and my truck say max time is 1 year. So, for this kid, the 'Bota will be the same. With 4 vehicles and 3 motorcycles, what's another 5 quarts of oil? LOL!
The hydro probably every other. Maybe. There should be little contamination and minor acidity if any since there is no blow by from the engine.
As they say, YMMV!

 

[Pawnee]

I change the oil on a new engine after starting up with a new break in oil and filter. On my tractor, I changed the oil at 50 hours and then once a year or every 100 hours. Oil and filters are inexpensive compared to replacing an engine.
Toyota recommends changing oil at 10,000 miles, and if you watch this video you will learn why you shouldn't follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

Great video, watched the whole thing. The guy is very honest and easy to watch.
First unboxing I have ever watched, taking a short block out of the box!
Thanks.

 

[Oil pan 4]

When in doubt, have your used oil tested, by someone like Blackstone labs.