L2500DT Electrical Problems

[gustafa]

Good afternoon all,

I have an L2500DT that I am trying to get started and need some more help. When I went to the tractor about 2 weeks ago, I went to start up the tractor to use it. As always, I warmed the glow plug even though it was 70*+ out, then turned the key over to run and the two lights on the dash came on like normal. When I went to start there was nothing. All safety switches were in the normal position to start. Since I have had issues in the past with it starting, almost like the switch was intermittent, I turned it off and tried starting it again, but at this time there were no lights when I went to run. Still nothing in start. I pulled the battery because I replaced it in 2019, took it to the charger but could not get it to hold a charge. Replaced battery. Installed the new battery and just like before the lights came on but there was no start, and when I turned switch off to restart no lights the again. Came in for a couple days and the new battery charge was down to 8 volts. Removed battery and charged back to 14v. Replaced switch, added starter relay and still have same results. All fuses are testing fine as well. Can I use the L2501 WSM to assist me in troubleshooting?

What I have done/troubleshot...
1. Battery voltage is good at battery 14V.
2. Battery voltage at starter from battery at 14V.
3. Switch Troubleshooting (Page 9S-9 in L2501 WSM), went from terminal B to ground and had 10V
4. Terminal B to AC, ST, and G were open.
5. Terminal B to AC, is supposed to be 0 ohms, but was like 35 ohms, so I replaced the switch.

I am going back today to start looking at all connections to ensure they have good connectivity and are rust free, clean if necessary.

Does anyone have any other suggestions? I don't want this to become a money pit and just start swapping all the parts like starter, altenator, dashboard etc.

Thanks ahead of time, and appreciate all the other posts that I have ready that have helped me in my Kubota adventures.

Thanks again,

Gus

 

[gustafa]

I am guessing that I have a short to ground somewhere. I found a couple wires that look like that they had a little visitor chewing on them. Repaired those. Found a wire behind gauges that was disconnected but that was to the temp. Used jumper cables on the starter...it runs and is not jammed up. I guess I need to reconnect everything and start shooting stuff from the schematic shooting powers to grounds.

 

[Russell King]

I recommend that you start by cleaning both ends of the ground cable. That seems to be a common problem and you can easily eliminate it. If the battery cables are suspect then you may want to consider replacing them with new.

Since the battery drained it does sound like a short some where. If the battery is drained with the new switch then I would suspect that the wiring between the switch and starter is going to ground. The switch should be the last place with power when it is in the off position. The old switch could have been allowing power to go beyond the switch if it was bad.

With the new switch installed and the battery charged tell us what it does now.

You can bypass the wiring to the switch and just replace it with a temporary direct run between the starter to the switch. I don’t know if I would go directly to the battery but you can do that if you want to but probably should install a fuse for safety.

Also explain what you did at the starter and what was spinning, just the starter or the engine was turning but didn’t start. I am not sure what “it runs and is not jammed up “ means

 

[gustafa]

Thanks Russell for the reply. So I cleaned all connections and started shooting the resistance on the wires and to ground. I think that I might have found the problem but would like an consensus if that makes sense. I shot the main power line from the battery through the slow fuse and to the switch. I found that that specific line has an off shoot to the back of the alternator which should be straight power. When the post on the alternator is shot to ground it has about 35k resistance. This should not be connected to ground correct? I am charging the battery as we speak.

As far as the starter, I had it removed from the tractor and took it to OReilly's...they said they couldn't run it on their bench. So I brought it home and connected to my truck battery with jumper cables. Black went to the casing and there is a covered plug on the starter to which I hooked the red. Starter started spinning. Then I connected the red to the main lead of the starter, then jumped the control to power and the plunger came out. Sorry don't know all the technical terms....

So what are your thoughts on the alternator being bad before I purchase one? Thanks ahead of time.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

A L2501 WSM will do you no good they are not the same!
You need a L2500 WSM to help you out with this.

 

[gustafa]

A L2501 WSM will do you no good they are not the same!
You need a L2500 WSM to help you out with this.

Yeah, started looking and comparing the one wiring diagram that I found for the L2500 and totally not the same. Thank you!

 

[Russell King]

Ok on the starter that sounds good and normal.

I don’t have enough experience with the alternator wiring inside to make a judgement but it does sound odd that the stator winding is going to ground which indicates the insulation is breaking down.

Hopefully more knowledgeable people will come along and help

You can remove the alternator and have it tested at a local electrical shop or some auto parts store

 

[utterchaos]

Ok on the starter that sounds good and normal.

I don’t have enough experience with the alternator wiring inside to make a judgement but it does sound odd that the stator winding is going to ground which indicates the insulation is breaking down.

Hopefully more knowledgeable people will come along and help

You can remove the alternator and have it tested at a local electrical shop or some auto parts store

Try disconnecting all wires from the alternator and see if it cranks(be sure to insulate the batt wire). Then see if the voltage goes down overnight.

 

[gustafa]

Thanks everyone for their assistance, I did take the alternator to repair shop. They did have to replace some diodes in the alternator. However, don't think that was my main culprit. I replaced my battery cables and it worked. Those were the original cables since the tractor was made so what 20+ years? Should have probably started there but they seemed to be good.